installing 24 lb injectors

a gauge is prefered if you are going to run boost, to ensure correct pressure, but if you are just upgrading right now, you should be fine, the stock pressure regulator should handle 24#er's just fine...........hotwheels of turborides
 
wyominghotwheel said:
a gauge is prefered if you are going to run boost, to ensure correct pressure, but if you are just upgrading right now, you should be fine, the stock pressure regulator should handle 24#er's just fine...........hotwheels of turborides

I always thought you needed to bump the fuel pressure up a few psi for 24's thats what I've always been told
 
the computer will modify the injector pulsewidth to accomodate a bump in FP. if one raises the FP, the computer will figure it out in a little while and shorten the pulsewidth - you will be delivering the same amount of fuel (or do what it takes to get the A/F ratio back to what the puter wants).

stock injectors are good for up to around 300 HP.
 
HISSIN50 said:
the computer will modify the injector pulsewidth to accomodate a bump in FP. if one raises the FP, the computer will figure it out in a little while and shorten the pulsewidth - you will be delivering the same amount of fuel (or do what it takes to get the A/F ratio back to what the puter wants).

stock injectors are good for up to around 300 HP.

sweet, that means I can save some money and not have to buy a adjustable fuel pressure regulator til next year when I do the 347, at what injectors do you need an adjustable one?

thanks for the help

matt
 
You dont need a FPR,
As said above the computer knows the pressure has changed and will take the pressure back down to stock levels,
They are used by track guys for a few runs at a higher pressure but then the computer backs the pressure back down anyway,

Theres really not much point to them if your running the stock ECU,
 
If SD - I know some folks mod for larger injectors by reducing pressure. But if it were me, I'd do a mass air conversion. You'll need to with the 347 in any event.

Ideally you adjust for larger injectors by either 1) putting in a recalibrated maf, or 2) using chip or tweecer to tell the ecu you've changed the injector size.

Pressure should stay stock on mass air cars - around 38-40 psi at warm idle with vacuum hose off and plugged.
 
hey michael, glad u brought up mass air. i just converted to that and i'm gonna build a 347 when i finish buying parts. i bought a c&l maf thats calibrated for 24s. right now i'm stock. here's the kit i'm runnin. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2476142831&category=33616
5.0 cam with a .542 lift maybe
victor jr. heads
probly go with edlebrock 5.0 performer intake
anyways, my question is will my computer understand and adapt to all these changes or will i have to reprogram the chip? i kinda figured thats what mass air was all about. being able to figure it out the mods by itself? also i should mention i bought a air adjuster that plugs in between the box & maf. i've heard they work good. anyone got some info?
 
First off - I'd give some thought to the camshaft; cams for 302's will behave differently - more mildly - in a larger displacement engine. I'd get a custom for the 347.

The mass air system should be able to handle the 347 - however, things can always be improved with a chip. And most folks will steer you towards an 80mm ProM maf if you want the most accurate calibration for the ecu. Lots of folks have challenges with the C&L units.
 
Your custom designer will set the specs for you including lift. Your comments seem to imply that customs are for racers only. Couldn't be further from the truth. Mine is a street only daily driver car - never sees the track. I told Buddy Rawls (cam designer) I wanted something that idled smoothly with near stock vacuum levels, and that had great bottom end torque for good manners and gas mileage. That's exactly what he delivered. Car gets 18-19 mpg around town and 24-26 on the highway. A custom allows you to be certain of how it's gonna perform BEFORE you put it in. It eliminates you having to guess ('how much lift do you think?') along with us here in the forum as to what kind of cam is gonna work to produce the results YOU want with YOUR combo. They're all unique at some level. Go here and read to learn more about cams - they're the most complex, most misunderstood yet probably important part of the combo. Open all the tabs at the bottom and read up. You'll learn stuff. http://www.wighat.com/fcr3/
 
Fox EECs only tune out fuel at part throttle - the Wide Open Throttle (WOT) fuel will still take advantage of the increased fuel pressure - just where yuou want it to to work for you. The EEC has a dedicated WOT fuel table that does not use KAM (fuel pulse width adjustment table) for fuel corrections. SN 95 cars are different, they do use KAM corrections (last one entered in the table) even at WOT.
 
Michael Yount said:
Matt - is your car speed density or mass air?

I'm in the process of converting it right now. I got a Mass Air converison kit that came with a new EEC, 24 lb injectors, C & L truflow tube, C & L 76 mm, and all the wiring. So it sounds like the EEC corrects it for me, thats good saves me some money, I might get an adjustable FPR when I do my 347, but not now. Thanks for all the info guys!

matt
 
one more thing, and if you guys have any tips or more info for me it would be greatly appericated. I'm 16 and I know carbs and how they work. But I EFI and computers are new to me and my dad. He's taught all about carbs. But EFI we are both learning, I've been reading up on them alot so if you guys want to give me any more info I'd be great.

thanks again

matt
 
FiveLtrRiceEatr said:
one more thing, and if you guys have any tips or more info for me it would be greatly appericated. I'm 16 and I know carbs and how they work. But I EFI and computers are new to me and my dad. He's taught all about carbs. But EFI we are both learning, I've been reading up on them alot so if you guys want to give me any more info I'd be great.

thanks again

matt
Here's a book that will get you started with how the Ford electronic engine control or "computer" works. It's a "Must Have" for any serious Mustang guy.

Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by Charles Probst :ISBN 0-8376-0301-3.

It's about $20 from Borders.com see http://www.amazon.com/ . Select boo...very good, and I found it to be very helpful.
 
jrichker said:
Here's a book that will get you started with how the Ford electronic engine control or "computer" works. It's a "Must Have" for any serious Mustang guy.

Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by Charles Probst :ISBN 0-8376-0301-3.

It's about $20 from Borders.com see http://www.amazon.com/ . Select boo...lot from it. thanks for the info matt