Installing BBK headers Sat.

[kfellers]

Hey guys, I will be installing some BBK shorties Sat on my 88 GT. My questions are:

1. What will I have to remove to get them out?
2. Are the gaskets that BBK provided good enough or should I go aftermarket?
3. I'm sure the header bolts will be nice and rust-stuck, any pointers for getting these things broke loose?

Also, will be installing BBK O/R H-pipe, American Thunder Flos with 40 mufflers. If anybody is interested I will post a short video with sound.

Thanks in advance.

 

[fly4spd]

2. don't use the gaskets that come with BBK, get some fel-pros or metal gaskets
3. my '83 wasn't too bad if you have trouble put a pipe on the end of the socket wrench to make the handle longer

 

[stang22]

You can use some penetrating oil to help loosen the old rusty stock bolt up. Make sure you only use pentrating oil that is safe on 02 sensors, it usually says it on the can. I think PB-Blaster is, but can't remember. Let it soak for a couple of hours or the night before

Ditto on the gasket that came with the headers, unless they say Felpro or Mr. Gasket. You can use Felpro 1415's if you are looking for a good set. I have never heard anything negative about the 1415's.

As far as what you will need to take off, that's up to you. Whatever is going to make it easier on you. Plugs, CAI, etc... Hope this helps.

Tim

 

[Project89]

Go w/different gaskets as the others have said. Mine were torn when I opened the box they came in (would not have used them anyways). Your car should sound great but do not be suprised to lose some of your low end as mine did after the install.

 

[kfellers]

Yea, thats what I hear, but IMO we've got plenty low end, I think I would rather have the torque up top.

 

[hrspwrjunkie]

Are these the equal lengths or the standard shorties?

Use Mr. Gasket 253 gaskets.

The instructions for the equal lengths say the engine must be lifted on the driver side or removed to install them, but I've been able to carefully guide them in on the driver side. It took some considerable time, but I was able to do it. It will be necessary to remove the dipstick tube to get them in. The biggest thing is mounting the dipstick tube. I just used the bolts that came with the headers (but ARP .75" stainless steel header bolts work better for later removal and continued beauty) and added a washer that I flattened on one side to clear the header tube.

Standard headers shouldn't require special installation maneuvers like lifting the engine.

Also, use a bottom tap and clean out the rusty and dirty header bolt holes in the engine and send a bottle brush (as is offered by Mr Gasket in a set) through the holes with cleaner on them before and after the tapping to remove grease, oil (from the tapping) and any excess dirty crud (that will get in the way of tapping or proper threading (also, a bad thread or hunk of dirt can gall threads and cause poor tightening of the bolt as well as reduced strength or complete stripping of the bolt or hole). Check the bolts and make sure the threads aren't nicked or galled (this can happen even on new bolts) and if they are, re-cut the threads (this will make for a faster and easier installation). Also make certain the mating surface for the exhaust openings are spotless. These two prep secrets make for much better sealing and are often overlooked by enthusiast and professional mechanic alike.