Seems pretty straightforward but any tips or hints I can get will be helpful. Are there any smaller parts, lube, etc that'll I'll need? I ran a search but didn't find much on actually installing them. I have the FMS Aluminum unit.
Installing driveshaft
- Thread starter ill advised
- Start date
bill302
Active Member
simple install installed my aluminum driveshaft a few weeks ago jack car up at rear and place on blocks or stands and chock front wheels then remove 4 bolts at the rear of driveshaft at u-joint flange and pull driveshaft out of tranny and out from under car its fairly simple unless you have an x-pipe like me,with an x-pipe you need to loosen exhaust from hangers at rear tailpipes and in front of rear axle (4 total) in order to remove driveshaft from above exhaust...you need to install a new rear seal in the tranny which is not difficult old one pulls right out and the new one will tap right in be careful and install seal evenly until the flange is flush with base of tailshaft.use a multi purpose grease i used wheel bearing grease and lubed the input shaft (driveshaft slip yolk) and slide it into tranny while slowly lineing splines on the inside of the input shaft by twisting driveshaft the shaft will slip in when lined up then install the 4 bolts at the drivashaft flange using loktite and torqueing to 71-91 ft. lbs. refasten exhaust if necessary remove jacks and stands and drive...goodluck.
BTW, the rear bolts are 12mm 12 point and I'm pretty sure you can't get a socket in there so have a wrench and possibly a cheater bar handy. Also make sure you have the rear high enough in the air that you'll be able to use them both. This also keeps all your fluid from runnining out of the tailshaft when you pull the driveshaft 
Shakerhood
20+ Year Stangneter 
Make sure you clean the companion flange before installing the new one and there should be an alignment marks on the driveshaft and the companion flange too. Also follow the Factory Service Manual and REPLACE the bolts with new ones, you can get them at the Dealer and they are cheap and already have the correct thread locker on them.
I figured the new DS might come with bolts but I guess not. I'll definitely get new ones. seijirou, yeah I saw a few posts about guys having to get creative to get the stock bolts out. lol
LEE93COBRA
New Member
+1 on lining up the marks. There will be a yellow mark on the driveshaft and one on the pinion flange
Dean85GT
New Member
wht93gtEd
Active Member
get a torch...the drive shaft bolts are some of the hardest bolts to ever get out! Heat them until they're glowing red and they'll back right out.
Actually, the red Loctite is the stronger stuff. Without a torch or some arms big enough to compete in a World's Strongest Man contest, you'll have a LOT of trouble getting them out again if you use the red, but you can rest assured that they'll stay in.rigamaroles said:
FoxBodyGT
New Member
Shakerhood
20+ Year Stangneter
rigamaroles said:
If you buy replacement bolts as the Service Manual tells you there is already Factory appied Yellow Thread Sealer and you never have to worry about it. They are Inexpensive enough that I keep an extra set in my Toolbox so if I ever need to take the Driveshaft out I already have new ones waiting.
If you're replacing the bolts that would be the best way to do it. However if you're not, you still need to apply some loc-tite. Just as an advisory, the red loc-tite will make it incredibly difficult to remove the bolts, the blue loc-tite will have a stiff seal you will have to break loose but will actually come loose. It also has enough strength to hold the bolts in...Thats all I was trying to relay.
I'll be picking up some new bolts today (new DS hasn't arrived yet). If they don't have the pre-applied sealer Shaker mentioned I'll use the blue. The old DS is out. The old bolts were some stubborn SOBs.
Shakerhood
20+ Year Stangneter
rigamaroles said:
Sorry Dude, I wasnt try to Dog you. I just dont like the thought of Guys trying to get Cheap in the wrong places as they can be such a safety hazzard!
