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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

Installing driveshaft

  • Thread starter Thread starter ill advised
  • Start date Start date Jul 30, 2006
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ill advised

Member
Apr 29, 2003
656
10
19
West L.A.
Jul 30, 2006
#1
  • Jul 30, 2006
  • #1
Seems pretty straightforward but any tips or hints I can get will be helpful. Are there any smaller parts, lube, etc that'll I'll need? I ran a search but didn't find much on actually installing them. I have the FMS Aluminum unit.
 

bill302

Active Member
Nov 2, 2005
2,131
1
46
alabama,gadsden
Jul 30, 2006
#2
  • Jul 30, 2006
  • #2
simple install installed my aluminum driveshaft a few weeks ago jack car up at rear and place on blocks or stands and chock front wheels then remove 4 bolts at the rear of driveshaft at u-joint flange and pull driveshaft out of tranny and out from under car its fairly simple unless you have an x-pipe like me,with an x-pipe you need to loosen exhaust from hangers at rear tailpipes and in front of rear axle (4 total) in order to remove driveshaft from above exhaust...you need to install a new rear seal in the tranny which is not difficult old one pulls right out and the new one will tap right in be careful and install seal evenly until the flange is flush with base of tailshaft.use a multi purpose grease i used wheel bearing grease and lubed the input shaft (driveshaft slip yolk) and slide it into tranny while slowly lineing splines on the inside of the input shaft by twisting driveshaft the shaft will slip in when lined up then install the 4 bolts at the drivashaft flange using loktite and torqueing to 71-91 ft. lbs. refasten exhaust if necessary remove jacks and stands and drive...goodluck.
 

ill advised

Member
Apr 29, 2003
656
10
19
West L.A.
Jul 30, 2006
#3
  • Jul 30, 2006
  • #3
Ok, I'll be sure to pick up a seal. This is going in my '92 which has an h-pipe. thanks.
 
S

seijirou

Founding Member
Aug 15, 2002
2,417
4
48
DFW
Jul 30, 2006
#4
  • Jul 30, 2006
  • #4
BTW, the rear bolts are 12mm 12 point and I'm pretty sure you can't get a socket in there so have a wrench and possibly a cheater bar handy. Also make sure you have the rear high enough in the air that you'll be able to use them both. This also keeps all your fluid from runnining out of the tailshaft when you pull the driveshaft
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
34
129
Jul 30, 2006
#5
  • Jul 30, 2006
  • #5
Correct about the 12 mm 12 pt socket.

FWIW, I've been able to use a socket and a short extension (3/8" wrench size). YMMV.
 

Shakerhood

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 28, 2004
3,357
209
114
Ohio
Jul 30, 2006
#6
  • Jul 30, 2006
  • #6
Make sure you clean the companion flange before installing the new one and there should be an alignment marks on the driveshaft and the companion flange too. Also follow the Factory Service Manual and REPLACE the bolts with new ones, you can get them at the Dealer and they are cheap and already have the correct thread locker on them.
 

ill advised

Member
Apr 29, 2003
656
10
19
West L.A.
Jul 31, 2006
#7
  • Jul 31, 2006
  • #7
I figured the new DS might come with bolts but I guess not. I'll definitely get new ones. seijirou, yeah I saw a few posts about guys having to get creative to get the stock bolts out. lol
 

LEE93COBRA

New Member
Apr 12, 2000
1,929
0
0
Alabama
Jul 31, 2006
#8
  • Jul 31, 2006
  • #8
+1 on lining up the marks. There will be a yellow mark on the driveshaft and one on the pinion flange
 

Dean85GT

New Member
Nov 27, 2004
502
1
0
Thorold, Ontario, Canada
Jul 31, 2006
#9
  • Jul 31, 2006
  • #9
bill302 said:
simple install installed my aluminum driveshaft a few weeks ago jack car up at rear and place on blocks or stands and chock front wheels then remove 4 bolts at the rear of driveshaft at u-joint flange and pull driveshaft out of tranny and out from under car its fairly simple unless you have an x-pipe like me,with an x-pipe you need to loosen exhaust from hangers at rear tailpipes and in front of rear axle (4 total) in order to remove driveshaft from above exhaust...you need to install a new rear seal in the tranny which is not difficult old one pulls right out and the new one will tap right in be careful and install seal evenly until the flange is flush with base of tailshaft.use a multi purpose grease i used wheel bearing grease and lubed the input shaft (driveshaft slip yolk) and slide it into tranny while slowly lineing splines on the inside of the input shaft by twisting driveshaft the shaft will slip in when lined up then install the 4 bolts at the drivashaft flange using loktite and torqueing to 71-91 ft. lbs. refasten exhaust if necessary remove jacks and stands and drive...goodluck.
Click to expand...

Maybe thats a 94-95 thing cause I didnt have to loosen my x pipe whatsoever
 
D

dustang31

New Member
Jun 27, 2004
25
0
0
Sacto, CA
Jul 31, 2006
#10
  • Jul 31, 2006
  • #10
+1 on the raising the rear high or have a plastic bag and a rubber band to go over the back of the tranny so it doesn't make a mess.
 

wht93gtEd

Active Member
Nov 11, 2004
0
9
29
Jersey Shore, New Jersey
Jul 31, 2006
#11
  • Jul 31, 2006
  • #11
get a torch...the drive shaft bolts are some of the hardest bolts to ever get out! Heat them until they're glowing red and they'll back right out.
 
R

rigamaroles

New Member
Jun 27, 2005
0
0
0
British Columbia
Jul 31, 2006
#12
  • Jul 31, 2006
  • #12
Make sure you use the blue NOT red loc-tite on the driveshaft bolts, or they WILL come loose lol.
 

BlownFiveLiter

have car, will race....wait, it doesn't run
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
3,133
18
108
Chicagoland
Jul 31, 2006
#13
  • Jul 31, 2006
  • #13
rigamaroles said:
Make sure you use the blue NOT red loc-tite on the driveshaft bolts, or they WILL come loose lol.
Click to expand...
Actually, the red Loctite is the stronger stuff. Without a torch or some arms big enough to compete in a World's Strongest Man contest, you'll have a LOT of trouble getting them out again if you use the red, but you can rest assured that they'll stay in.
 
R

rigamaroles

New Member
Jun 27, 2005
0
0
0
British Columbia
Jul 31, 2006
#14
  • Jul 31, 2006
  • #14
Thats why I said use the blue.....the blue will hold them in, the red will make it really f'n hard to get out. If you use none, then you will constantly be torquing them...
 

FoxBodyGT

New Member
Dec 18, 2002
71
0
0
Austintown, Ohio 44515
Jul 31, 2006
#15
  • Jul 31, 2006
  • #15
I never had to torch my bolts, but I guess it probably would have been easier, lol.
 

Shakerhood

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 28, 2004
3,357
209
114
Ohio
Aug 1, 2006
#16
  • Aug 1, 2006
  • #16
rigamaroles said:
Thats why I said use the blue.....the blue will hold them in, the red will make it really f'n hard to get out. If you use none, then you will constantly be torquing them...
Click to expand...


If you buy replacement bolts as the Service Manual tells you there is already Factory appied Yellow Thread Sealer and you never have to worry about it. They are Inexpensive enough that I keep an extra set in my Toolbox so if I ever need to take the Driveshaft out I already have new ones waiting.
 
R

rigamaroles

New Member
Jun 27, 2005
0
0
0
British Columbia
Aug 1, 2006
#17
  • Aug 1, 2006
  • #17
If you're replacing the bolts that would be the best way to do it. However if you're not, you still need to apply some loc-tite. Just as an advisory, the red loc-tite will make it incredibly difficult to remove the bolts, the blue loc-tite will have a stiff seal you will have to break loose but will actually come loose. It also has enough strength to hold the bolts in...Thats all I was trying to relay.
 

ill advised

Member
Apr 29, 2003
656
10
19
West L.A.
Aug 1, 2006
#18
  • Aug 1, 2006
  • #18
I'll be picking up some new bolts today (new DS hasn't arrived yet). If they don't have the pre-applied sealer Shaker mentioned I'll use the blue. The old DS is out. The old bolts were some stubborn SOBs.
 

Shakerhood

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 28, 2004
3,357
209
114
Ohio
Aug 2, 2006
#19
  • Aug 2, 2006
  • #19
rigamaroles said:
If you're replacing the bolts that would be the best way to do it. However if you're not, you still need to apply some loc-tite. Just as an advisory, the red loc-tite will make it incredibly difficult to remove the bolts, the blue loc-tite will have a stiff seal you will have to break loose but will actually come loose. It also has enough strength to hold the bolts in...Thats all I was trying to relay.
Click to expand...

Sorry Dude, I wasnt try to Dog you. I just dont like the thought of Guys trying to get Cheap in the wrong places as they can be such a safety hazzard!
 
W

wazazzle

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
618
1
0
In the dumpster behind McDonalds. WA
Aug 2, 2006
#20
  • Aug 2, 2006
  • #20
all i gotta say is don't use too much... lock tight... dem fkrs are a bizna tch to get off as is.
 
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