Sorry to jack, but any tips on how to get the bolts out? I removed the nuts, but the bolts were stuck in place. I got a hammer and screw driver, and forced it out of the frame, but it was still stuck in the other side of the frame, and lca. there's horizontal pressure against the bolt; as soon as the bolt was removed from 1 side of the frame, it went out of alignment, and had a hell of a time putting it back in.
Installing LCAs. Any other minor mods I might want to do while I'm in there?
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This is true to some extent. Although, *just* about any boxed or tubular LCA will provide sufficient enough traction to warrant the removal of the quads. Worst case scenario is, you still have a small amount of wheel hop under heavy load. Simply reinstall the quads or replace them with heavy duty quads if it makes you feel better.
Well, if I'm understanding this correctly... it would be in your best interest to relieve any and all pressure the LCA's could be under. With no pressure on them, the bolts should be able to be removed with only slight effort. If I'm misunderstanding your question, my apologies.
I'll be doing lift bars on my car this weekend, perhaps I can offer more direct insight into your question in a few days time.
Not necessarily. Just because it's "boxed" or "tubular" has nothing to do with how well it controls the movement of the axle.
It needs to have a spherical bearing and a properly designed urethane bushing (or another sperical bearing) to do so. Two hard poly bushings on any boxed or tubular LCA won't get the job done as far as allowing removal of the quad.
If you are using UCA's why get a Panhard bar? If you want one, then remove the UCA's install a Torque Arm and Panhard bar.
Also keep in mind the Quad shocks also help prevent side to side motion of the rear(this isn't their major function, but a minor one). I removed mine though when I installed my MM LCA's
Also keep in mind the Quad shocks also help prevent side to side motion of the rear(this isn't their major function, but a minor one). I removed mine though when I installed my MM LCA's
they are absolutely horrible at that if that is their purpose. sn95s have about 1" of lateral movement in the differential when cornering. one of the main purposes of the panhard rod is to prevent this. hell even a watts link wouldve prevented this, thats why the 98+ crown vics have them.
I didn't say they were great at it, just a secondary function where the UCA's primarily handle that.
I am saying is if you have UCA's there really is no point in adding a Panhard unless you remove them. That is like have 4 UCA's on the car.
I am saying is if you have UCA's there really is no point in adding a Panhard unless you remove them. That is like have 4 UCA's on the car.
I still have stock uppers & I have a MM panhard bar. It works great even without the torque arm. It still keeps the side to side axle movement in check.
You still need the UCA's with a PHB. Only with a PHB and T/A combo can you remove them.
Hows the panhard bar install? Easy to do at the same time? For some reason I thought it was a royal PITFA.
It is.
You need a welder (recommended although you "can" bolt it on) to do the best installation job.
Also, your tailpipes will be goners too, unless you get them modified at an exhaust shop.
Thats what I thought. F that. At least for now...
:OT: I got my stang out of the garage today. First drive in 5 months! Loved it!!
I know. That is what I said in the quotes you posted
Your statement was a bit hard to understand. You wrote:
blackfang said:
But, if you are using a PHB without a T/A, you still need the UCA's. You can't get rid of them.
Just trying to clear up some confusion.
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