I'm replacing the stock rear upper/lower control arms with a set of Macs on a 1992 GT 5spd 5.0. Now with the Macs, it keeps eating the bushings up when the car is'nt really driven everyday nor driven hard. I'm I missing a step in the install? Help!
I'm replacing the stock rear upper/lower control arms with a set of Macs on a 1992 GT 5spd 5.0. Now with the Macs, it keeps eating the bushings up when the car is'nt really driven everyday nor driven hard. I'm I missing a step in the install? Help!
The lower control arms are to be torqued to I believe 86 ft./lbs. I would say anything just shy of 90 would be fine as they have to have a certain amount of free movement to them or if you torque them too much they bushings will be in a bind. I would say do the top somewhere very near this. You may want to use new lock nuts or a medium threadlocker to assure the nuts dont back off. If you are just tightening the control arm bolts to the max you can turn and dont stop until you cant go no more, you are binding them and this is the reason for worn out bushings. Hope this helps.
It doesnt matter if you tourqe these with out the weight on, If it makes you feel better put the jack stands under the axle. Use grease on the sides of the bushings, not alot just enough to allow lubrication.
It doesnt matter if you tourqe these with out the weight on, If it makes you feel better put the jack stands under the axle. Use grease on the sides of the bushings, not alot just enough to allow lubrication.
yes it does, it's very important to torque the control arms with the weight of the vehicle on them. Support the rear, and let the weight rest on the rear, then torque it.
Mac has those poly bushings at both ends. this creates a lot of bind around corners, and wreaks hell on your torque boxes. May even be the source of some of your wear.
if you're ever in the market, get a set with a spherical bushing at one end, and poly at the other end, and you'll be good for the twisties again