Instrument cluster lights not working

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I've had mine apart so long I cant remember how the dimmer switch functions. If it worked correctly would you just twist the headlight switch to dim or brighten the dash light? I know the rheostat can fail, but you said you changed the switch. It's a little more work, but if you have changed the switch and checked the fuses the next thing to do would be to get out the multi meter and start checking for voltage. I would start at the fuse block and work my way up to the dash lights. On the opposite hand you could pull one of the bulbs from the instrument cluster and check for voltage there. If you dont have voltage then start working your way back until you find it.
 
The problem is I have a bag of fuses with no labels on the fuses that are similar in size so I have no way of knowing what fuse goes where. But I can tell that my heater is out now so I can definitely say it is fuse related. Due to my guess work on what fuse goes where. This car won’t win. I will win every time. Just a matter of time and effort.
 
Well holy sheet, after locking myself out of my car and then getting back in. I looked at the fuses and they do say what amp they are so with a little bit of elbow grease I solved the equation. Everything is working again at 100% even the dash lights and heater. Thanks boys and girls for your input.
 
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So here's a question I'm hoping someone can help me out with that is satisfactory. I don't know what fuses are making correct contact into the built in fuse box in my 67. So I was going to buy a volt tester to test but before I did that I wanted an explanation of exactly how I would know how to correctly use it. First off the fuses are brand new and appear to be working however I had to twist the fuses a little to get power to my car to make the correct contact. So my question is in relation to the statements I've made, how do I use a volt tester to make sure the fuse is seated properly and how would a volt tester tell me if the fuse is seated correctly. I don't want to take the fuses out because they break easy and with a little bit of twisting it seemed to have done the trick. Which leads me to my next question. Would a volt tester even help?
 
Problem solved.

Okay so I found the problem and it might shock some people to know who are having the same problem that the problem was the fuses were to loose, not tight enough. So I used a flat head screwdriver and wedged the contacts closer together.
 
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