intake manifold install

302 coupe said:
well geez guy, if you want to use silicone that bad, do it. All I'm saying is that there are no problems with using the cork gaskets when properly installed. I don't recall there ever being a TSB or recall for faulty cork end seals on the millions of windsor and other similar engines that use the same gasket design. If you can't master the installation of a simple self adhesive cork gasket, its not my fault. Maybe the next time you blow a head gasket, you'll just silicone it too, lol. Just kidding dude, lighten up.

You completely missed the point. I never claims Ford had a TSB or recall for the cork end rail gaskets, my point was that you claimed that using the cork end rail gaskets is the right way to go because Ford wouldn't have incorporated them in the design of the motor if it wasn't the right way to do it. My examples are just for pointing out to you the countless times Ford, or any other car manufacturer's, creates components or designs that are either sub-par or flat out faulty from the get go.

If you are one of a few people that have yet to experience problems using the cork end rail gaskets, than I consider you lucky.

I've tried the non-adhesive cork end rail gaskets, the self-adhesive cork end rail gaskets, and installed both with perfect and careful intake manifold alignment. I've also followed the torque sequence and torque spec for the specific manifold each time. Sometimes they leaked right away, other times they didn't leak for a few months and started leaking later. In all cases, they ended up leaking for me. With RTV, not a single drop of oil has ever leaked on any of the factory iron or aftermarket aluminum intakes I've ever installed.

If you think that using RTV in place of the cork end rail gaskets is a sign of an inexperienced installer or poor understanding of how to use the cork gaskets, than you're not lucky, you're foolish. I have no problem being lumped into your category of people that "can't master the installation of a simple self adhesive gasket" because I'm in good company, company that includes Edelbrock, Weiand, Mustang & Fords magazine, Mustang Monthy, (probably all of the Primedia magazines for that matter), Car Craft, Horsepower TV, and countless machine shops and engine builders.
 
jtfairlane said:
.Sometimes they leaked right away, other times they didn't leak for a few months and started leaking later. In all cases, they ended up leaking for me.
I'm telling you, ya just gotta make sure you got a good bite on them. If you do, and were torqued down correctly, they wont leak. Its obvious when you look at a corker thats been torqued to see that its damn near impossible for oil to get by (assuming you have a smooth clean surface). Also, nobody is saying you are a bad person because you dont use cork gaskets. Lets take it down a notch.

In the end Cork Vs. RTV...... to each thier own
 
I have never had the corkers leak on me. I did have the silicon sealer leak but it was my fault, I poked a bubble into it on the back side while dropping the intale into place. Both systems work very well. I still use the corkers because it is less massy for me and I often do work in 40 degree conditions.

Both work fine.
 
I'd chime in, but seems eveyone's covered the bases. I still use the end seals (cork or rubber whichever I have on hand) unless the end gaps are too tight to fit em. I like the cork gaskets, but they will leak eventually when they get old and dried out. The newer rubber ones work great on the newer blocks that have the locating holes for them. Only one application, I had to use sealer itself, that was a 4.3 V6 Chebby in my ski boat. No seals with the gasket set, but the end gap was so narrow that they wouldn't have worked anyway. Bottom line is use whatever you like, just pay attention to the details when installing it and you'll seldom have leaks.
 
It amazes me this thread got so much play - if you look at edelbrock intake install instructions is say use RTV on frontand real intake seals. not gaskets. Oh well - sounds like either will work if you know what you are doing.
 
Like some of the other's here, I've used both but after using the black Permatex, I'm sold on that method. I don't have to fight the cork gaskets trying to make sure they're lined up and I have yet to have a leak afterwards so for me I use it. As far as the "..if it were better Ford would've designed it that way.." thing, does that apply to the entire car as well? I mean look at what we (and I mean 99.9% of us) change in the interest of performance and reliablity. Cams, radiators, wheels, sway bars, carbs, intakes, exhaust, the list goes on forever. The engineers at Ford were not then and are not now, the last word in automotive genius.
 
D.Hearne said:
The newer rubber ones work great on the newer blocks that have the locating holes for them.

Are you talking about black rubber seals, or silicone rubber? I had some blue silicone rubber end seals come in a Fel-Pro gasket set a few years ago. They actually hung over the endges of the block rails and fit into the locating holes(roller block) you mentioned. They worked great, but I pulled the engine out and apart before they had time to get old. I think the gasket kit might have been specifically for a 5.0. Now I'm back to cork 'n' rtv because it's what I had handy.
 
65ShelbyClone said:
Are you talking about black rubber seals, or silicone rubber? I had some blue silicone rubber end seals come in a Fel-Pro gasket set a few years ago. They actually hung over the endges of the block rails and fit into the locating holes(roller block) you mentioned. They worked great, but I pulled the engine out and apart before they had time to get old. I think the gasket kit might have been specifically for a 5.0. Now I'm back to cork 'n' rtv because it's what I had handy.
I was refering to the blue rubber seals (or silicone?) Seems like I've seen both types, with either the lips that fit outside the rails and the nipples that fit into holes in the rails. But I'm like you, I'll use what's handy, if I have it at hand.:D