Intake Manifold Removal

[my72mach1]

Well, I started removing my stock intake and carb today from my 351C 2V. Have all the hoses disconnected, coil removed and bolts out, but I still can't get it to budge. Any ideas on what I may have missed or tricks for how to get it off? Thanks.

 

[CraigMBA]

They stick pretty good if they've been there for a while.

Put a cold chisel between the intake and the block and gently tap it out.

 

[p0prcksandc0ke]

if u take the valve covers off it helps u can put a chisel between the heafds and the manifold

 

[my72mach1]

Thanks guys. I'll give it a shot tomorrow using the chisel.

 

[D.Hearne]

Put the wedge between the block and intake. Don't put it between the heads and intake. Head milling costs a bit more if you happen to screw it up. You can't hurt the block valley end walls. Just make damn sure all the bolts are out before doing anything.

 

[TD68302]

Try sparying WD-40 all around manifold that will help loosen the gaskets over night

 

[rbohm]

rather than a chisel, i prefer a putty knife. the slimmer blade goes in easier, and wont damage anything, especially the valley pan.

 

[p0prcksandc0ke]

well i didnt have a ride to the hardware store so i usd a flat head screw driver

 

[dodgestang]

rather than a chisel, i prefer a putty knife. the slimmer blade goes in easier, and wont damage anything, especially the valley pan.

Using a chisel can be dangerous....especially when it is an aluminum intake. While you may have the cast on there now I wouldn't get in the habit it using a chisel. A putty knife (I use a taping knife personally) will easily slide between the intake and block for the valley seal and between the head and intake to start breaking that seal. I find once you break the block seal in the front and back and intake seal to cylinders 1 and 5 you can then usually grab a hold of it and get it the rest of the way off by hand.

For a laugh...here is a picture of my in the same place you are several years ago. All the hoses out, all the bolts out, everything out of the way, and I couldn't get the intake to budge. I literally picked the car up off the jack stands with the cherry picker by the intake with nothing more than the rtv holding it on.

 

[D.Hearne]

Using a chisel can be dangerous....especially when it is an aluminum intake. While you may have the cast on there now I wouldn't get in the habit it using a chisel. A putty knife (I use a taping knife personally) will easily slide between the intake and block for the valley seal and between the head and intake to start breaking that seal. I find once you break the block seal in the front and back and intake seal to cylinders 1 and 5 you can then usually grab a hold of it and get it the rest of the way off by hand.

For a laugh...here is a picture of my in the same place you are several years ago. All the hoses out, all the bolts out, everything out of the way, and I couldn't get the intake to budge. I literally picked the car up off the jack stands with the cherry picker by the intake with nothing more than the rtv holding it on.

This is a prime example of what NOT to do in removing an intake. Imagine the carnage when the seal suddenly breaks and the intake and chain go flying.

 

[my72mach1]

Man, glad I got on here again this morning before I started. I think I'll go with the putty knife. I'll give an update later today hopefully on how it went. Thanks again.

 

[my72mach1]

SUCCESS!

Well the putty knife worked. Couple of taps and it lifted right off. Now it's time to get the new intake and carb on. Can't wait! I found an edelbrock performer on ebay and got a reman edelbrock 600 carb, hoping for a little jump in performance.

 

[dodgestang]

This is a prime example of what NOT to do in removing an intake. Imagine the carnage when the seal suddenly breaks and the intake and chain go flying.

No chit, that's why I posted it. We all have our learning curves.
Wanna see how I take stock springs and old upper arms out with a crowbar?

 

[D.Hearne]

No chit, that's why I posted it. We all have our learning curves.
Wanna see how I take stock springs and old upper arms out with a crowbar?

Crow bar ? Hell man, I use the cutting torch method. Nothing like flames to go with the carnage!

 

[rbohm]

No chit, that's why I posted it. We all have our learning curves.
Wanna see how I take stock springs and old upper arms out with a crowbar?

i done that once, ok twice. the first time the spring popped with no fuss. on the other side, the spring shot out about 15ft. no damage to me though, but i sure as heck aint doing it again

 

[my72mach1]

OK, follow up question. The stock manifold had a valley pan, does that stay in with the new performer manifold or get taken out and just the new gaskets are used?

 

[D.Hearne]

Trim the gasket portion off the valley pan, reuse it. Use composite gaskets where the trimmed off portion was.It will help keep the intake a bit cooler. Also helps to block off the exhaust passages to the intake. Set the intake in place for a trial fit, then determine if the end gaskets are needed, the gap under the intake will determine that.

 

[my72mach1]

Thanks again. Last dumb question today at least. The hose from the head cover that attached to the back of the motorcraft carb, I assume this is the PCV port? So on the edlebrock it is the front port? If so, do I need to buy a new flexible hose for this because the orginal was molded to be run to the back of the carb.

 

[D.Hearne]

There would have originally been a hose from either valve cover, the driver's side was the fresh air inlet into the engine, (from the aircleaner) the passenger side cover had the PCV valve and was connected to the rear of the carb spacer.(full manifold vacuum) It doesn't really matter which cover hole does what though, just as long as it's set up to flow thru the engine. Sometimes it helps avoid the PCV valve picking up excess oil by moving the PCV valve to the driver's side cover. The oil in the rocker gallery tends to flow rearward, so if it backs up before the drain hole, it'll be away from the PCV at the front.