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Intake Manifold Removal

  • Thread starter Thread starter my72mach1
  • Start date Start date Aug 3, 2007

my72mach1

New Member
Feb 17, 2007
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Aug 3, 2007
#1
  • Aug 3, 2007
  • #1
Well, I started removing my stock intake and carb today from my 351C 2V. Have all the hoses disconnected, coil removed and bolts out, but I still can't get it to budge. Any ideas on what I may have missed or tricks for how to get it off? Thanks.
 

CraigMBA

New Member
Mar 24, 2007
783
1
0
Orange, CA
Aug 3, 2007
#2
  • Aug 3, 2007
  • #2
They stick pretty good if they've been there for a while.

Put a cold chisel between the intake and the block and gently tap it out.
 

p0prcksandc0ke

New Member
Apr 27, 2007
111
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0
sacramento,ca
Aug 3, 2007
#3
  • Aug 3, 2007
  • #3
if u take the valve covers off it helps u can put a chisel between the heafds and the manifold
 

my72mach1

New Member
Feb 17, 2007
36
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Aug 3, 2007
#4
  • Aug 3, 2007
  • #4
Thanks guys. I'll give it a shot tomorrow using the chisel.
 
D

D.Hearne

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Sep 29, 2000
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south louisiana
Aug 3, 2007
#5
  • Aug 3, 2007
  • #5
Put the wedge between the block and intake. Don't put it between the heads and intake. Head milling costs a bit more if you happen to screw it up. You can't hurt the block valley end walls. Just make damn sure all the bolts are out before doing anything.
 

TD68302

New Member
Jul 29, 2007
57
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0
Arvada, CO.
Aug 3, 2007
#6
  • Aug 3, 2007
  • #6
Try sparying WD-40 all around manifold that will help loosen the gaskets over night
 

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
6,698
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204
tucson,az
Aug 3, 2007
#7
  • Aug 3, 2007
  • #7
rather than a chisel, i prefer a putty knife. the slimmer blade goes in easier, and wont damage anything, especially the valley pan.
 

p0prcksandc0ke

New Member
Apr 27, 2007
111
0
0
sacramento,ca
Aug 3, 2007
#8
  • Aug 3, 2007
  • #8
well i didnt have a ride to the hardware store so i usd a flat head screw driver
 

dodgestang

Active Member
Dec 15, 2003
1,360
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37
Cecil County, MD
Aug 4, 2007
#9
  • Aug 4, 2007
  • #9
rbohm said:
rather than a chisel, i prefer a putty knife. the slimmer blade goes in easier, and wont damage anything, especially the valley pan.
Click to expand...

Using a chisel can be dangerous....especially when it is an aluminum intake. While you may have the cast on there now I wouldn't get in the habit it using a chisel. A putty knife (I use a taping knife personally) will easily slide between the intake and block for the valley seal and between the head and intake to start breaking that seal. I find once you break the block seal in the front and back and intake seal to cylinders 1 and 5 you can then usually grab a hold of it and get it the rest of the way off by hand.

For a laugh...here is a picture of my in the same place you are several years ago. All the hoses out, all the bolts out, everything out of the way, and I couldn't get the intake to budge. I literally picked the car up off the jack stands with the cherry picker by the intake with nothing more than the rtv holding it on.

 
D

D.Hearne

New Member
Sep 29, 2000
11,730
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south louisiana
Aug 4, 2007
#10
  • Aug 4, 2007
  • #10
dodgestang said:
Using a chisel can be dangerous....especially when it is an aluminum intake. While you may have the cast on there now I wouldn't get in the habit it using a chisel. A putty knife (I use a taping knife personally) will easily slide between the intake and block for the valley seal and between the head and intake to start breaking that seal. I find once you break the block seal in the front and back and intake seal to cylinders 1 and 5 you can then usually grab a hold of it and get it the rest of the way off by hand.

For a laugh...here is a picture of my in the same place you are several years ago. All the hoses out, all the bolts out, everything out of the way, and I couldn't get the intake to budge. I literally picked the car up off the jack stands with the cherry picker by the intake with nothing more than the rtv holding it on.

Click to expand...

This is a prime example of what NOT to do in removing an intake. Imagine the carnage when the seal suddenly breaks and the intake and chain go flying.
 

my72mach1

New Member
Feb 17, 2007
36
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0
Aug 4, 2007
#11
  • Aug 4, 2007
  • #11
Man, glad I got on here again this morning before I started. I think I'll go with the putty knife. I'll give an update later today hopefully on how it went. Thanks again.
 

my72mach1

New Member
Feb 17, 2007
36
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0
Aug 4, 2007
#12
  • Aug 4, 2007
  • #12
SUCCESS!

Well the putty knife worked. Couple of taps and it lifted right off. Now it's time to get the new intake and carb on. Can't wait! I found an edelbrock performer on ebay and got a reman edelbrock 600 carb, hoping for a little jump in performance.
 

dodgestang

Active Member
Dec 15, 2003
1,360
0
37
Cecil County, MD
Aug 4, 2007
#13
  • Aug 4, 2007
  • #13
D.Hearne said:
This is a prime example of what NOT to do in removing an intake. Imagine the carnage when the seal suddenly breaks and the intake and chain go flying.
Click to expand...

No chit, that's why I posted it. We all have our learning curves.
Wanna see how I take stock springs and old upper arms out with a crowbar?
 
D

D.Hearne

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Sep 29, 2000
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south louisiana
Aug 4, 2007
#14
  • Aug 4, 2007
  • #14
dodgestang said:
No chit, that's why I posted it. We all have our learning curves.
Wanna see how I take stock springs and old upper arms out with a crowbar?
Click to expand...

Crow bar ? Hell man, I use the cutting torch method. Nothing like flames to go with the carnage!
 

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
6,698
550
204
tucson,az
Aug 4, 2007
#15
  • Aug 4, 2007
  • #15
dodgestang said:
No chit, that's why I posted it. We all have our learning curves.
Wanna see how I take stock springs and old upper arms out with a crowbar?
Click to expand...

i done that once, ok twice. the first time the spring popped with no fuss. on the other side, the spring shot out about 15ft. no damage to me though, but i sure as heck aint doing it again
 

my72mach1

New Member
Feb 17, 2007
36
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0
Aug 4, 2007
#16
  • Aug 4, 2007
  • #16
OK, follow up question. The stock manifold had a valley pan, does that stay in with the new performer manifold or get taken out and just the new gaskets are used?
 
D

D.Hearne

New Member
Sep 29, 2000
11,730
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0
south louisiana
Aug 4, 2007
#17
  • Aug 4, 2007
  • #17
Trim the gasket portion off the valley pan, reuse it. Use composite gaskets where the trimmed off portion was.It will help keep the intake a bit cooler. Also helps to block off the exhaust passages to the intake. Set the intake in place for a trial fit, then determine if the end gaskets are needed, the gap under the intake will determine that.
 

my72mach1

New Member
Feb 17, 2007
36
0
0
Aug 4, 2007
#18
  • Aug 4, 2007
  • #18
Thanks again. Last dumb question today at least. The hose from the head cover that attached to the back of the motorcraft carb, I assume this is the PCV port? So on the edlebrock it is the front port? If so, do I need to buy a new flexible hose for this because the orginal was molded to be run to the back of the carb.
 
D

D.Hearne

New Member
Sep 29, 2000
11,730
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south louisiana
Aug 5, 2007
#19
  • Aug 5, 2007
  • #19
There would have originally been a hose from either valve cover, the driver's side was the fresh air inlet into the engine, (from the aircleaner) the passenger side cover had the PCV valve and was connected to the rear of the carb spacer.(full manifold vacuum) It doesn't really matter which cover hole does what though, just as long as it's set up to flow thru the engine. Sometimes it helps avoid the PCV valve picking up excess oil by moving the PCV valve to the driver's side cover. The oil in the rocker gallery tends to flow rearward, so if it backs up before the drain hole, it'll be away from the PCV at the front.
 
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