Intake Manifold Replacement

depending on "who's" intake you get, you'll also need a new alt brkt and you should re-place the intake gaskets.
now a Ford re-placement "PI" intake kit is $735.12 "suggested" list price and labor rate at our shop is $85.00 an hour and the book calls for @4hrs labor, so yes they are a little high.

This is an extremely simple R&R, just take your time. The book calls for 4.2 hours, but that also includes several things that are unnecessary like pulling the alternator. You can do it yourself in less than that. Like Randy mentioned, it would be a good idea to replace the intake manifold gaskets.

I'm sure you can search and find a full write-up online, but I will try to give you as many pointers as I can remember off the top of my head.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Take note of where all the vacuum lines/hoses go when you disconnect them. Be careful with the small EGR differential vacuum hoses back by the driver's side firewall.
3. You do not need a fuel line disconnect tool, just gently pull the fuel rails off the injectors leaving the injectors in the intake manifold, then just lay the fuel rails over to the passenger side.
4. Instead of unbolting the EGR feed pipe from the EGR solenoid, just unbolt the two 10mm bolts holding the actual EGR housing to the plenum. It’s much easier that way when you go to install the new intake.
5. When I mentioned above leaving the injectors in the intake, this makes swapping over the injectors to the new intake easier and ensures that you keep the injectors on the same cylinder they came from. It’s important to keep the coils and injectors on the same cylinders. You can just leave the COP’s (coil on plugs) attached to the intake as well then swap them once you have the original intake removed. The COP’s are retained by a 7mm bolt.
6. Check the injector o-rings. If they look dried or cracked, replace them. Always dab a little bit of clean silicon around the injector o-rings when you go to re-seat the injectors in the intake and fuel rails.
7. You’ll find it very helpful to have a friend hold aside the wire harness and EGR feed pipe when you are ready to pull the intake. Contrary to most service manuals you DO NOT need to remove the alternator. You can either get the specific alternator bracket to bolt to the updated intake manifold, or you can simply drill two new holes in the existing bracket. The alternator is bolted firmly to the block, the alternator upper bracket is just there more for safety rather than function.
8. Once you have the intake manifold off, clean the intake manifold/cylinder head mating surface very well making sure not to get and large debris in the intake runners. Wipe down the mating surface with some carb/brake cleaner.
9. This would be a good time to change your spark plugs, PCV valve, and thermostat while you’re there.
10. When you go to install the new intake manifold, make sure that all the injector and coil pigtail connectors are out of the way before you tighten down the intake. I’ve seen lots of people crush those connectors.

I think all the rest is fairly obvious and pretty straightforward. Just take your time and don’t rush yourself.

Here are the important torque specs and tightening orders:

View attachment 406673

View attachment 406675

^Good write up

dannyboy1999 said:

Just one more thing, whats your guys sugguestions on whos intake manifold i should get. Should i just get a the OEM PI one from FRPP or is there one that you prefer?

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well, I might be a bit biased here but I say stay away from the aftermarket ones like what "doorman" sells and wth the Frpp intake, you get NO warranty at all.
so that being said, I say get a genuine Ford intake.

we sell the PI intake, 2 intake gaskets wth the correct alt brkt for @$300.00

RandyStinchcomb said:

we sell the PI intake, 2 intake gaskets wth the correct alt brkt for @$300.00

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That is worth $300!!!!!!!!! I played hell trying to find the correct alt bracket!

dannyboy1999 said:

hmm all the PI intakes im showing are priced from 180-250

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not genuine Ford maybe aftermarket or Frpp(which as stated above, has NO warranty)

RandyStinchcomb said:

well, I might be a bit biased here but I say stay away from the aftermarket ones like what "doorman" sells and wth the Frpp intake, you get NO warranty at all.
so that being said, I say get a genuine Ford intake.

we sell the PI intake, 2 intake gaskets wth the correct alt brkt for @$300.00

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And when you order parts from Randy, you get a free Liberty Ford license plate holder as well.

Hey Randy, you know what you just reminded me, I never got the updated upper alternator bracket when I ordered my intake a while back. No biggie, but maybe you could send me one when you get a chance. You can PM me or email me.

LaserRed01GT said:

And when you order parts from Randy, you get a free Liberty Ford license plate holder as well.

Hey Randy, you know what you just reminded me, I never got the updated upper alternator bracket when I ordered my intake a while back. No biggie, but maybe you could send me one when you get a chance. You can PM me or email me.

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ok, well did I charge you for the brkt let me know as I'll have to order more for stock

RandyStinchcomb said:

ok, well did I charge you for the brkt let me know as I'll have to order more for stock

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I thought you'd get a kick out of the free license plate holder promo.

I believe we did discuss the alternator bracket as part of the $300 package that I agreed on. Would it help if I gave you my invoice number?

dannyboy1999 said:

hmm all the PI intakes im showing are priced from 180-250

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I'd agree to stick with a genuine Ford intake. That way you won't have to worry about anything lining up or any fitment issues. It may be priced a little higher than the rest of the updated PI intakes, but it's worth the peace of mind.