Intake Manifold/Timing

It is just basically a bolt and go. It is vitally important to follow the torque pattern and amount (18 lb-ft). The manifold is easily damaged by over torque.

Take a few pictures as you go. This will help to get the routing correct.

Recommend a good cleaning of the engine top side with compressed air before starting (including the spark plug holes). Very easy to get debris inside the engine once the manifold has been removed. This is also a good time to change spark plugs as the access is great.

Some people say the intake gaskets are re-useable if in good shape. IMO, given the age of the car, recommend going with new gaskets. (esp since you stated in another post there is white smoke in your exhaust).

Great write up by reddaemon. Show all the steps in a lot of detail.

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/785868-99-01-pi-pi-intake-manifold-swap-writeup.html

If you are really anal, replace the two O-rings in the coolant return hard line at the back of the water pump. You will loose some skin removing the nuts from the back of the heads supporting the hard line.

Clean the gasket surfaces to help ensure a leak free job. Do not use metal scrapers.

If the replacement manifold is an after market Dorman, the gaskets are built in.

wmburns said:

This is also a good time to change spark plugs as the access is great.

Click to expand...

+1. I learned this the hard way. Trust me when I say that the #3 and #4 spark plugs are a real PITA to change w/ everything still on. Extremely easy to do while everything is taken apart.

-Will

Reset the timing? Wow, you must be old school, huh? Nothing wrong with that my friend... The reason I point that out is that I remember pulling the heads (to have em rebuilt) on my 351C in my 73 Mach 1 back in high school (this was around 1983). Everything went well putting it back together, but it wouldn't start. Why? Distributor was 180* off. Lessons learned.
Remember this car has no distributor, no points, condenser, etc. Individual coils on each plug deliver huge amts of juice. No plug wires. It's a good setup.

Do you know the history on this car? Has it been maintained well? Has the oil been changed regularily? White smoke / Blue smoke? Blue indicates oil burning, which typically indicates engine wear. How many miles are on the car?

try a compression test to see if the head gaskets are good

After my Son's truck dropped a valve, large amounts of anti-freeze ended up in the exhaust. After installing a new motor, we were very worried about the large amouts of white smoke coming out of the tail pipe. After perhaps an hour of driving, the antifreeze burned up and everything is just fine.

Bottom line, it could take a while for the anti-freeze to burn out of the exhaust. It shouldn't take too long. And you should notice it getting better as you drive.

If there is no improvement, you may not have found the source of the anti-freeze (or the new manifold leaks as well). At that point, suggest pressure testing the coolant system.