Interior Sealant?

1967project

New Member

Dec 28, 2006

89

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Oklahoma

Sep 14, 2011

#1

• Sep 14, 2011

• #1

My 67 just went through a media blaster down to bare metal on the interior, trunk, engine bay areas.
I wanted to lay down a DIY paint or sealer that I dont have to worry too much about it bubbling/ cracking over the years and retaining moisture under the carpet. I thought about a truck bed liner like herculiner ect... I dont have a compressor or spray gun so Im kind of limited to rattle can type or roll on. Not a big fan at this point of paying someone else to do it.
So what im wondering is: Has anyone out there used a DIY product for covering bare metal (this will eventually be covered by sound deadner and carpet) that I can apply to the interior and not have to worry about 10 years down the road?

 

65fastbackresto

Active Member

Apr 13, 2007

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AR

Sep 14, 2011

#2

• Sep 14, 2011

• #2

I`d put something on it quick.

Brush some cheap epoxy or something on it, it`ll start rust hazing in no time, you got raw steel exposed, and it needs to be covered asap.

 

jonbacon

Member

Sep 12, 2011

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Sep 14, 2011

#3

• Sep 14, 2011

• #3

The undercoating spray is good.. 5$ a can.. or the roll on liner is usaully pretty good and a gallon is around 110 for the kit..I used the kit for my jeep and under coating for the stang. woreked great, and been over 2 years..

 

dennis112

15 Year Member

May 15, 2005

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Amish Wonderland of Central PA.

Sep 14, 2011

#4

• Sep 14, 2011

• #4

65fastbackresto said:

Brush some cheap epoxy or something on it, it`ll start rust hazing in no time, you got raw steel exposed, and it needs to be covered asap.

Click to expand...

I agree that epoxy primer (one designed for bare metal) will give the best protection. Would be best sprayed, but you can brush it (or even roll it with a small 3-4" wide roller.) Then seam seal any seams when the primer has dried.

After that, you can use spray on undercoat if you wish, but I would only do that if I was going to cover it with paint sometime afterwards. The paint helps hold down the smell that seems to occur on hot days if undercoating is used.

 

jackson0215

Member

Dec 10, 2009

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Sep 15, 2011

#5

• Sep 15, 2011

• #5

I used some of the rattle can spray for inner fenders and it was a pain. You can spray 24" and than you need to shake it again. If you don't it will all come out at the same time. I plan to roll mine but would you use the seal sealer after the under coating or before?

 

Fabbed4d88

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Apr 19, 2011

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Grand Forks ND

Sep 15, 2011

#6

• Sep 15, 2011

• #6

POR15, Inc. - Stop Rust Permanently - Repair Gas & Fuel Tanks This stuff Is what I like to use. I use it on alot of my 4X4 suspension parts.

 

Fstbk

Member

Sep 7, 2010

215

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Sep 15, 2011

#7

• Sep 15, 2011

• #7

Get some SPI epoxy and apply it with a roller or a brush, stay away from putting ANYTHING else on the bare metal. Epoxy, then seam sealer, then more epoxy after that dries. On the interior thats all you will need. On the exterior/bottom, well, thats all you will need.

 

1967project

New Member

Dec 28, 2006

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Oklahoma

Sep 18, 2011

#8

• Sep 18, 2011

• #8

Engine Bay Primer

Well, I appreciate all the advice, I didnt have time to order the sealant (SPI Epoxy) as the metal was already bare. So I went with some primer/sealer from the local auto parts store. It turned out pretty good as the surface was "prepped" when it was hit by the sand at the media blaster, just had to clean it and wipe it down with tac cloths.
Now I just have to finish all the rust spots and get the thing painted some day.
Right now its down to Ford Kona Blue or Ford Platinum White Metallic.
Any thoughts on those two colors from anyone out there?

Thanks.

 

Fstbk

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Sep 7, 2010

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Sep 18, 2011

#9

• Sep 18, 2011

• #9

So did you brush it or roll it on?

 

1967project

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Dec 28, 2006

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Oklahoma

Sep 19, 2011

#10

• Sep 19, 2011

• #10

Had to spray on. Still have the rear seat area to do and the smaller parts.

 

Slobin3d

Active Member

Aug 29, 2011

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Sep 19, 2011

#11

• Sep 19, 2011

• #11

if the body is going to sit bare I would spend the 200 bucks or so and hit the car with epoxy primer as it is water proof and can sit for a long time without fear of rusting under the primer like build up or etch primer will.

 

Fstbk

Member

Sep 7, 2010

215

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Sep 19, 2011

#12

• Sep 19, 2011

• #12

1967project said:

Had to spray on. Still have the rear seat area to do and the smaller parts.

Click to expand...

So did you rattle can it?

 

1967project

New Member

Dec 28, 2006

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Oklahoma

Sep 19, 2011

#13

• Sep 19, 2011

• #13

Yeah, rattle can for the better part of a day.
Its on my trailer in the garage, so I think the sealer/ primer will hold till its ready to be done professionally.
I decided to take an auto-craft class that starts in early October and runs till mid January. Hoping to teach myself rust repair and have this thing ready for paint when the snow thaws. Most of my rust is on the floor pans, dont think it will require a total replacement, just patch work.
Will post pics if anyone is interested.

 

66Coupe289POWER

Member

Jun 4, 2007

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Raleigh, NC

Sep 20, 2011

#14

• Sep 20, 2011

• #14

Make sure the cowl is not rusted too. I'm in the process of repairing mine. Its the cause of most of the floor rust.

 

1967project

New Member

Dec 28, 2006

89

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Oklahoma

Sep 21, 2011

#15

• Sep 21, 2011

• #15

I actually cut the wiper cowl vents out. The previous owner had the covers for them, but there was still water damage.
I dont plan on having heat/ AC in the car when its done so my plan is to weld in panels and smooth over the cowl area. I only intend to drive the car in the spring, summer, and fall.

 

Fstbk

Member

Sep 7, 2010

215

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Sep 21, 2011

#16

• Sep 21, 2011

• #16

1967project said:

I actually cut the wiper cowl vents out. The previous owner had the covers for them, but there was still water damage.
I dont plan on having heat/ AC in the car when its done so my plan is to weld in panels and smooth over the cowl area. I only intend to drive the car in the spring, summer, and fall.

Click to expand...

The inner/lower cowl is an important part structurally....if it's rusted it could be weak.

 

robbz28

Member

Sep 23, 2009

775

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Epps, LA

Sep 21, 2011

#17

• Sep 21, 2011

• #17

I shaved my cowl as well....the passenger side was in good shape, but the drivers side was pretty rusted out, i cut out the rot from beneath and shaved the top...its a slick look...some like it, some dont, just make sure you get the rust out. And as far as it being a structural component, thats absolutely true...but its less of an issue if you add frame connectors.

 

mtaqua

Member

Oct 7, 2006

345

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Sep 21, 2011

#18

• Sep 21, 2011

• #18

I shaved my cowl vents as well. I had some rot on the bottom section of my cowl (on the inside of the car), I was able to cut it all out and replace with some sheet metal and sealed the cowl on the bottom too. I did drill a couple drain holes in it in case some water ended up in it.

 

1967project

New Member

Dec 28, 2006

89

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Oklahoma

Sep 22, 2011

#19

• Sep 22, 2011

• #19

Can you guys post or send some pics of the smoothed over wiper cowls?
Im curious as to how it will look when its done.

I did have sub frame connectors welded on already, that and some media blasting is about all the last body shop did in 2.5 years while I was constantly deployed. I got the car back in the end, but not my $$$.

I also smoothed (or at least began to) over the rain guards. Those will be gone when its done too.