Interior Sealant?

[1967project]

My 67 just went through a media blaster down to bare metal on the interior, trunk, engine bay areas.
I wanted to lay down a DIY paint or sealer that I dont have to worry too much about it bubbling/ cracking over the years and retaining moisture under the carpet. I thought about a truck bed liner like herculiner ect... I dont have a compressor or spray gun so Im kind of limited to rattle can type or roll on. Not a big fan at this point of paying someone else to do it.
So what im wondering is: Has anyone out there used a DIY product for covering bare metal (this will eventually be covered by sound deadner and carpet) that I can apply to the interior and not have to worry about 10 years down the road?

 

[65fastbackresto]

I`d put something on it quick.

Brush some cheap epoxy or something on it, it`ll start rust hazing in no time, you got raw steel exposed, and it needs to be covered asap.

 

[jonbacon]

The undercoating spray is good.. 5$ a can.. or the roll on liner is usaully pretty good and a gallon is around 110 for the kit..I used the kit for my jeep and under coating for the stang. woreked great, and been over 2 years..

 

[dennis112]

Brush some cheap epoxy or something on it, it`ll start rust hazing in no time, you got raw steel exposed, and it needs to be covered asap.

I agree that epoxy primer (one designed for bare metal) will give the best protection. Would be best sprayed, but you can brush it (or even roll it with a small 3-4" wide roller.) Then seam seal any seams when the primer has dried.

After that, you can use spray on undercoat if you wish, but I would only do that if I was going to cover it with paint sometime afterwards. The paint helps hold down the smell that seems to occur on hot days if undercoating is used.

 

[jackson0215]

I used some of the rattle can spray for inner fenders and it was a pain. You can spray 24" and than you need to shake it again. If you don't it will all come out at the same time. I plan to roll mine but would you use the seal sealer after the under coating or before?

 

[Fabbed4d88]

POR15, Inc. - Stop Rust Permanently - Repair Gas & Fuel Tanks This stuff Is what I like to use. I use it on alot of my 4X4 suspension parts.

 

[Fstbk]

Get some SPI epoxy and apply it with a roller or a brush, stay away from putting ANYTHING else on the bare metal. Epoxy, then seam sealer, then more epoxy after that dries. On the interior thats all you will need. On the exterior/bottom, well, thats all you will need.

 

[1967project]

Engine Bay Primer

Well, I appreciate all the advice, I didnt have time to order the sealant (SPI Epoxy) as the metal was already bare. So I went with some primer/sealer from the local auto parts store. It turned out pretty good as the surface was "prepped" when it was hit by the sand at the media blaster, just had to clean it and wipe it down with tac cloths.
Now I just have to finish all the rust spots and get the thing painted some day.
Right now its down to Ford Kona Blue or Ford Platinum White Metallic.
Any thoughts on those two colors from anyone out there?

Thanks.

 

[Fstbk]

So did you brush it or roll it on?

 

[1967project]

Had to spray on. Still have the rear seat area to do and the smaller parts.

 

[Slobin3d]

if the body is going to sit bare I would spend the 200 bucks or so and hit the car with epoxy primer as it is water proof and can sit for a long time without fear of rusting under the primer like build up or etch primer will.

 

[Fstbk]

Had to spray on. Still have the rear seat area to do and the smaller parts.

So did you rattle can it?

 

[1967project]

Yeah, rattle can for the better part of a day.
Its on my trailer in the garage, so I think the sealer/ primer will hold till its ready to be done professionally.
I decided to take an auto-craft class that starts in early October and runs till mid January. Hoping to teach myself rust repair and have this thing ready for paint when the snow thaws. Most of my rust is on the floor pans, dont think it will require a total replacement, just patch work.
Will post pics if anyone is interested.

 

[66Coupe289POWER]

Make sure the cowl is not rusted too. I'm in the process of repairing mine. Its the cause of most of the floor rust.

 

[1967project]

I actually cut the wiper cowl vents out. The previous owner had the covers for them, but there was still water damage.
I dont plan on having heat/ AC in the car when its done so my plan is to weld in panels and smooth over the cowl area. I only intend to drive the car in the spring, summer, and fall.

 

[Fstbk]

I actually cut the wiper cowl vents out. The previous owner had the covers for them, but there was still water damage.
I dont plan on having heat/ AC in the car when its done so my plan is to weld in panels and smooth over the cowl area. I only intend to drive the car in the spring, summer, and fall.

The inner/lower cowl is an important part structurally....if it's rusted it could be weak.

 

[robbz28]

I shaved my cowl as well....the passenger side was in good shape, but the drivers side was pretty rusted out, i cut out the rot from beneath and shaved the top...its a slick look...some like it, some dont, just make sure you get the rust out. And as far as it being a structural component, thats absolutely true...but its less of an issue if you add frame connectors.

 

[mtaqua]

I shaved my cowl vents as well. I had some rot on the bottom section of my cowl (on the inside of the car), I was able to cut it all out and replace with some sheet metal and sealed the cowl on the bottom too. I did drill a couple drain holes in it in case some water ended up in it.

 

[1967project]

Can you guys post or send some pics of the smoothed over wiper cowls?
Im curious as to how it will look when its done.

I did have sub frame connectors welded on already, that and some media blasting is about all the last body shop did in 2.5 years while I was constantly deployed. I got the car back in the end, but not my $$$.

I also smoothed (or at least began to) over the rain guards. Those will be gone when its done too.