Is a fluidyne gonna cool me off????

Pokageek said:

Here's my experience:
Grady how old was your radiator? I did the change to fan temps WITH the original size RAD and no issues what-so-ever (NEW stock rad). [edit] Actually the temps never went above the "O." This was in 95* temps (max) and full H/C/I. Many times peeps old rads are pooping out and they change to a bigger one and think it was the size that made the difference. This was in 95* temps (max). There is no need for a high volume water pump from all research I have done but welcome to opinion. The big radiator I only added with the big block c.i.

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I dono Keith

I don't see how the age of the rad would have anything to do with what all
happened

I guess my line of reasoning is ........
One summer my cooling system was getting by as long as I kept
moving and had airflow

I put on different h/c/i which gave a 20% power gain and overwhelmed
the very same cooling system the next summer

The nice Stewart pump was done because I could get it at a better
price than OEM

I mean ... Why would I not want to take advantage of that

And that 95 degree day
it gets that hot before lunch down here

It is not uncommon to see triple digits until 8 or 9 pm

Grady

final5-0 said:

I dono Keith

I don't see how the age of the rad would have anything to do with what all
happened

I guess my line of reasoning is ........
One summer my cooling system was getting by as long as I kept
moving and had airflow

I put on different h/c/i which gave a 20% power gain and overwhelmed
the very same cooling system the next summer

The nice Stewart pump was done because I could get it at a better
price than OEM

I mean ... Why would I not want to take advantage of that

And that 95 degree day
it gets that hot before lunch down here

It is not uncommon to see triple digits until 8 or 9 pm

Grady

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The old rad might have a questionable cap for one thing. I had an old rad with slight leaks in it myself at one time. I didn't notice them until it started spewing, long after it was initially compromised. I haven't seen any evidence that those veins on the hi flow pump perform any better than OEM.

Again, my trick-flow H/C/I gave me a 40+ % power-gain and the stock rad did fine after changing the fan settings in very hot weather here in MD. The only thing I changed out was a new oem Ford water pump. Again, it never went over the "O." As far as I am concerned the hi-po rads are just a lot of hype unless you are blown or big c.i. maybe. There's a lot of internet speak about peeps buying them but very few people try the fan setting thing first.

Here were mine.

Since I have a 180* thermostat I generally I use these values;
Tailor the fan settings to meet your needs.
fan_high_speed_ECT1_on = 196
fan_high_speed_ECT2_on = 200
fan_high_speed_ECT_off = 190
fan_low_speed_ECT_off = 182
fan_low_speed_ECT_on = 188

[edit] I found one internet quote in your favor Grady on the water pump:

"When I bought it, the Milidon and Edelbrock were the same price. I'v always been happy with the quality and peformance of Edelbrock parts, so that's what I bought.

It works much better. With the stock repalcement pump, there were no issues during normal driving on the street, no matter what the temp was. But on the track the temp would creep up over a 20-30 minute session. Some times track surface temps were close to 150*. With the Edelbrock pump, temps are never higher than 200*. I also use a high flow thermostat.

I'm also using a fairly hot stroker. 550 hp creates a lot of heat.

BUT, as long as you're not beating the crap out of the car on the track in hot weather, a stock replacement will be far less than $100, and meet all your requirements. Especially in a fairly stock 302. It just doesn't produce enough heat to make it a real issue."

The Big difference that makes it worth getting an aftermarket Water pump is not just higer flow but an even flow output on both sides of the engine.

There was an article done many years ago where they took a stock replacement SBF pump and measured the output and compared it to a Edelbrock pump (which they don't make for 95-95) The stock pump was not the same output between left and right banks, the Edelbrock was almost even. On a Supercharged car you especially want even cooling. You could have one side starting to detonate when if you had even cooling there would be no problem.

A Stewart pump for 94-95 at Summit is $77.95. My local parts store a remanufactured stock pump is $55, new $102. The Stewart is really a no Brainer over stock for $20 more than a remanufactured or $24 less than a new one .

To be DEVILS ADVOCATE. :stirpot: - Mustangs run 200k + miles using the stock water pump for the life of the engine so perfectly even flow (might well be a "marketing concept" to sell the competitor's product) that doesn't matter much. I am using it on my 414 with no issues and prefer to go oem when I can too ,especially when its a proven concept. But I see your point on cost as well. Good debates.

Pokageek said:

To be DEVILS ADVOCATE. :stirpot: - Mustangs run 200k + miles using the stock water pump for the life of the engine so perfectly even flow (might well be a "marketing concept" to sell the competitor's product) that doesn't matter much. I am using it on my 414 with no issues and prefer to go oem when I can too ,especially when its a proven concept. But I see your point on cost as well. Good debates.

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Well the 200k argument is also for a stock 215hp motor in "Normal" driving. Just like the radiator...people will run a stroker with a stock radiator...yeah it will work just like the stock pump. Try pusing the limit on a hot open track day where you are screaming the motor at high rpm for 20 or 30min not going down the 1/4mi for 12 seconds, or "Going through the gears" on the street.

When they tested the pumps it not only flowed even side to side but flowed more also, this was a magazine test to see the results, supposedly unbiased

When you are making 3 times the power or more on a supercharged car you want to have the same temp's as possible in each cylinder head so after seeing the test results I would NEVER consider running a stock pump.

Now looking at a N/A motor like yours...it could be the difference of running a little more timing, the hotter head could detonate sooner...so it may be costing you HP and you don't know it...maybe maybe not...but with all the money in your motor whats $77.95 for a high quality pump thats better than stock??

I could see if an afetrmarket pump was $300 or $400 but they are basically cheaper new than a stock pump. Anyway yes good debates...everyone has their opinion and thats what is so great about this forum

Yep. And don't get us started on the electric pumps, lol. You should see the debates on those. Some peeps say they have to buy a new alternator every 20k miles and then there's the debate as to whether they free up anything at all because so many use under-drive pulleys with them.

When running these bigger alum radiators, does the stock fan still fit, or do you have to run something thinner?

My stock fan fits and thats with the longer 414c.i. in it.

Bullitt95 said:

Sure, it'll cool you off but it'll also piss you off if it leaks. I suggest you go for the Mishimoto. It's 1/2 the price of the Fluidyne, very good quality, and much less leak-prone.
You said you have a blower. Do you have an intercooler? If not, that could be contributing to your hot running problems.

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I have the mishimoto and love it looks great under the hood also does a hell of a job cooling car was at about 230 before mishimoto i also went to 180 thermostat and ron francis fan 180 temp switch. whats awesome also is the warranty and i just read they will even warranty there radiator if was damaged in a crash.

Mishimoto Warranty Information

Man that sounds like a sales pitch they should put me on payroll lol.