is it missing or something else?

BlackVert · Nov 12, 2004

from reading as many threads as i can find about it, it looks like if a TFI goes bad, the car will just die. same thing with the PIP sensor. i DID see one thread where the guy said his idle was rough and he had drivailiby issues and replacing the PIP fixed it, but everyone else says that when their TFI or PIP was bad, the car would not start or simply die after a little while. no bucking, no stumbling, just dead.

i now suspect a combination from not enough fuel pressure causing a lean condition and fouled plugs from running too lean for too long. the hazards of changing mafs and FPRs and not knowing how to tune ...

what do plugs look like from a too lean mixture?

BlackVert · Nov 12, 2004

1105 said:
Anyone know if there is a way to check to make sure the TFI module is still good?

apparently you can take it to a parts store and they can check it.

mytight95 · Nov 12, 2004

yes atuozone or advanced can check the ignition module............

i am pretty sure tha lean plugs have a grey kinda buildup on them........what plugs did you use and what did you gap them too.

jason

Meangene21 · Nov 12, 2004

I didnt see anything about it. But what do the plugs look like?

Did you end up replacing the wires..
What plugs are in there?
Maybe you need a hotter plug..

Sorry if this is repeat info. But i couldnt tell from your posts if you did all of these.

BlackVert · Nov 12, 2004

mytight95 said:
yes atuozone or advanced can check the ignition module............

i am pretty sure that lean plugs have a grey kinda buildup on them........what plugs did you use and what did you gap them too.

jason

i used standard motorcraft plugs (ASF-42C) and they were gapped to the factory specs (0.052 in).

BlackVert · Nov 12, 2004

Meangene21 said:
I didnt see anything about it. But what do the plugs look like?

Did you end up replacing the wires..
What plugs are in there?
Maybe you need a hotter plug..

Sorry if this is repeat info. But i couldnt tell from your posts if you did all of these.

no i did not replace the wires, they are MSD 8.5mm super conductor wires, so i'm thinking they are ok. also, i looked the other night while it was idling and i did not see any arcing.

l.groves · Nov 13, 2004

Try two things. Check your alternator output with everything on and if auto put it in drive with the emergency brake on. Mine read 13.2 volts when it should read 14-15. After changing out the voltage regulator (30-50 dollars) my output increased to 15.2 volts with everything on and in drive. Then adjust your fuel pressure up to about 50 with vacum off -put vacum back on and drive it for a day or two with the injector cleaner in the gas to clean any possible clogged injectors. After that drop your pressure back to about 43. That took care of it for mine. My theory is the car wasn't getting enough power to spark correctly or fire the injectors accurately which led to clogged injectors and driving with the extra pressure and cleaner unclogged them. Hope this helps!

Silver85TC · Nov 13, 2004

BlackVert said:
from reading as many threads as i can find about it, it looks like if a TFI goes bad, the car will just die. same thing with the PIP sensor. i DID see one thread where the guy said his idle was rough and he had drivailiby issues and replacing the PIP fixed it, but everyone else says that when their TFI or PIP was bad, the car would not start or simply die after a little while. no bucking, no stumbling, just dead.

i now suspect a combination from not enough fuel pressure causing a lean condition and fouled plugs from running too lean for too long. the hazards of changing mafs and FPRs and not knowing how to tune ...

what do plugs look like from a too lean mixture?

I wouldn't rule the TFI out. They don't always fail 100%. Read the following thread from the Corral;
http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=570660

Here's a quote from that thread;

just solved this problem on my 95GT.

i had both problems, the hesitation, stumbling, and the car just dieing while driving on the road.

for me, the hesitation, stumbling, was a TFI problem, the tach on the car would just start bouncing up and then down to almost a stall, then bounce up to like 3 grand, then almost to a stall repeatedly, and giving the car gas would not solve the problem. needless to say this was extremely frustrating and would happen only after the car heated up. this was most definitely a temperature related situation with the TFI. make sure your TFI is properly mounted in the factory heat sink, you have used dielectric grease on the underside of the TFI, and that the wiring harness connector is properly cleaned. after my TFI was properly mounted, no more problems.

the stalling on the highway with no warning was a distributor/stator/pip sensor problem. i replaced the whole distributor (130,000 miles on original) and have had no problems ever since.

let me know if this helps.

Ted

Cheers

BlackVert · Nov 15, 2004

11/15 update: I went to the parts store to buy a new coil. While the guy was looking up the part number, I went out and started removing the old coil. When I pulled off the wire that goes from the coil to the distributor, the connector was completely covered with crud! What an idiot I am for not checking that stuff first! I cleaned the male side off, put some dielectric grease in the connector and put it back together. The car SEEMS to be OK now, but I am not 100% sure yet. I'll post again after I get home from work.

BlackVert · Nov 15, 2004

11/15 update #2: cleaning the coil connection helped, but the hesitation/stumbling is still there. tomorrow: a new coil wire. when that doesn't solve it, i'll try a new coil. if that is not it, then i'll try a new tfi module.

BlackVert · Nov 16, 2004

11/16 update #1:

1. cleaned the tfi connector, no help.

2. installed another FPR (Kirban), still hesitates.

at least i'm ruling out almost everything!

new coil is going in at lunch. pray for me ...

BlackVert · Nov 16, 2004

11/16 update #2: The new coil did not help.

I'm starting to get pissed.

Since I installed the AFPR this morning, I can now adjust the fuel pressure. So I increased the fuel pressure to 38 (with the vacuum tube on, based on the advice of the mechanic who replaced the pip sensor). As expected, that did not help, in fact it seemed to make the problem worse. Then I dropped it to 39 (vacuum tube off) to see how it was at the stock pressure. It was late and I had to get to a meeting, so I didn't have enough time to drive it enough to see how it was.

I haven't tried removing the TwEECer. It has been on there since August and it has been fine, so I doubt that is it, but I'll take it off next, assuming the fuel pressure thing is not it.

mytight95 · Nov 16, 2004

it needs to be somewhere in the range of 38 psi vacuum off. maybe a hare more with the mods you have.....

I am beginning to believe that it is either the plug wires, sometimes they are bad and you cant tell at night or anything, or the Ignition module (tfi). Have you checked the ground wire on the back of the coil? Try another coil, they aren't but like 15$, you will eventually figure it out, as it can only be one of so many things. Have you checked the voltage on your tps sensor, like hood a voltmeter up to it and see if it has a dead spot somehwere........Also without looking through the posts above i am gonna ask if it is at part throttle or WOT

jason

l.groves · Nov 16, 2004

You still didn't try my suggestion eah? Had the same problem mine is gone. You have a lot more air moving than you used too. Try it you'll like it!

BlackVert · Nov 16, 2004

l.groves said:
You still didn't try my suggestion eah? Had the same problem mine is gone. You have a lot more air moving than you used too. Try it you'll like it!

well i just this morning put in the afpr! give me a chance eah? i'll crank it up tomorrow to like 50 and run injector cleaner. i'm hoping that will help!

BlackVert · Nov 16, 2004

i just remembered why i wasn't too worried about trying that. it runs great when it is cold. if the injectors were clogged, then why would it be fine when the engine is cold? if it was the injectors, then wouldn't it run like crap when it was cold too?

mytight95 · Nov 16, 2004

if it only does it when the motor is hot...........i think this will be your ect sensor, or the ignition module..

jason

ps.....did you take pictures of the street heat intake before install such as runners etc........if so could i see them, and some installed pics......thanks

l.groves · Nov 16, 2004

You forgot to read the whole message as stated.

Did you check your running VOLTS?? With everything on-lights-stereo-AC and Fan(in the car)-in drive(if auto)with e-brake on. You have to have power to make power. Should read 14-15 volts as stated in the manuals. Mine read 13.2 until I rebuilt the ALT. Don't do a quick reading and don't check it when it is cold.

yellow1995Cobra · Nov 16, 2004

its a spark/ignition problem no doubt. Pull the car in the garage at night warmed up, shut the lights off, rev it to where the stumble is and watch for some blue spark somewhere.

Ive had this issue on three different occasions. Once it was the distributer, once cracked porcelin on one sparkplug, and once 1 bad sparkplug wire.

Everytime it would pull the old -run fine while cold and crappy while warm.

l.groves · Nov 16, 2004

You left out "while checking, close the garage door and all your problems will go away."

is it missing or something else?

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