ok. Ford installs and rewires a fuel pump for me about a month ago... then the pump dies 3 days ago. I had the car takin to the dealership, and they wont return my phone calls. Not only that they are saying my car is throwing a bunch of codes, and that to get it to "run the way i want it to, they need to install 2 grand in stock parts." Now obviously i wont let them do that. All i know is the pump wont turn on when you turn the key, an once outof 5 tries, the car starts and immeditly dies. Are they BSing me simply because they dont want to fix it because they did it wrong the first time, or are te beng straight with me. I was told it threw mass air code and some other "hard fault codes". HELP 
is the dealership trying to screw me or not?
- Thread starter 91mustangguy
- Start date
shttygtstang
New Member
- Jun 2, 2004
- 978
- 0
- 0
bring it to another dealership .like if you buy a cd from kmart you can return it at anthoner .same with dealers your aloud to choose who you want to see
I didn't see you mention the fuel pump relay...have you ruled the fuel pump relay out? That definately could be the problem. Any idea why it's throwing a mass air code? I would think that with the mods in your sig, you could do a fuel pump...they're not hard to do. If you have access to an impact, you could prob. do it in an hour or two. I would check out the relay first and if the relay is good, check voltages to see if maybe it's bad wiring somewhere.
shttygtstang
New Member
- Jun 2, 2004
- 978
- 0
- 0
They are BS'ing you ALL THE WAY i worked for a ford dealership. Someone took your car for a RIDE i bet and i mean, Drive it like you stole it. Clean your maf , remove the neg. from batt. try to clear the maf code. The hard fault code 98(i think) just means you didnt pass the KOEO test(ie maf) If the dealership owns more than one in your town then take it to them otherwise your stuck w/ dealing with them. Do you have a local news station that has an INVESTIGATIVE REPORTER ?? CALL THEM. call the BBB. I would go down to the dealer a riase hell make sure people are around to hear (customers) take it from experience IT WORKS. good luck keep us posted
bmo37
Founding Member
Funny I took my car to the dealership as soon as I popped the hood they laughed and said no, Told me to go somewhere else or a performance shop.
mustangsquared
Founding Member
I would walk in and have them re-pull the codes in front of me...write em down. Some one on here could verify what they are...this of course puts them in a odd spot since you very well will catch them in a lie. Of course the fastest and easiest fix was already mention.... make a big scene in front of other customers and then call the BBB. Also email/write FORD's HQ customer service adn complain about the dealership. That tends to help. Worked with my wife's Saturn. Dealer kissed her a** to keep her happy. Fixed problem and a free loaner for 2 days. 
Go get your car (or send a flat bed for it) and take it to a different shop. Sounds very "funny" to me. Something doesn't add up. Something could have gone bad, but 2 large in parts sounds like they don't know what is wrong and they just want to throw parts at it untill it's fixed.
And check that relay. I think it's under the passenger seat (it was in my '90 convertible). Mine did exactly the same thing. Swapped it out for a new one, problem solved.
And check that relay. I think it's under the passenger seat (it was in my '90 convertible). Mine did exactly the same thing. Swapped it out for a new one, problem solved.
Obviously what you need to do first is to get your car back, and under your control.
Next if the dealership will tell you what codes they got from the computer, post them here. There are a number of resources to help sort out the codes.
If the dealership won't tell you what they got for codes, if the car is driveable, go to Autozone or other major auto parts retailer and they will dump them for free. If you are a DIY'er you can dump the codes yourself. Walmart sells a $30 or so hand scanner that will do the trick. See http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for an example of what the inexpensive hand scanners look like.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
Next if the dealership will tell you what codes they got from the computer, post them here. There are a number of resources to help sort out the codes.
If the dealership won't tell you what they got for codes, if the car is driveable, go to Autozone or other major auto parts retailer and they will dump them for free. If you are a DIY'er you can dump the codes yourself. Walmart sells a $30 or so hand scanner that will do the trick. See http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for an example of what the inexpensive hand scanners look like.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
they probably just don't want to fool with it.i've worked for all the "big three" at dealerships and most don't want to fool with modified cars because of several reasons.first we don't go to school to learn how to hotrod cars,second there isn't any money to be made at doing it and usually the customer isn't happy about the results ie:you sure you did it right,because i thought that cai should've give it at least 20hp,it said so on tv.my advice to you would be to do it yourself or find a good indepedent shop and by the way usually the dealership also has the highest labor rates.
the only reason i took it to them in the first place is beacuse i just didnt have the time to do it. 'm a student dwn in Moorseville,NC. i appreciate all the help. i'll definetly keep you guys posted. They havnt returned my phone calls for three days straight. Hopethier not doing anything to it because at ths point i have not authorized any work on the car. So i hope they like working for free!
The AutoZone guy has been smoking funny cigarettes... If the guy knows his stuff, the scanner should work.
A paper clip is all you need for stangs prior to 96.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at Walmart.
A paper clip is all you need for stangs prior to 96.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at Walmart.
Similar threads
