Is there a decent tub. K-member that retains stock track width and wheel base?

caseywan

Member
Apr 7, 2006
157
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17
Chicago, IL
I was thinking about getting a tubular K-member cause I would love to drop the 60lbs or whatever, and I know MM makes the best and their's would be the strongest for a street car, but I don't want to mess around with the wheel base and track width being increased and the wheels not being centered in the fenderwell would drive me nuts.

So is there a tubular k-member out there that is strong enough for a street car and still retains stock dimensions?
 
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i looked into this more after i bought my QA1 k member, it has been sitting in my basement for 2 months now and i am returning it to summit. after reading all the threads of wheels not fitting and other issues i decided that i don't need it. my understanding is unless its a track only car it isn't really worth it.

some people have it and say its the best mod they ever did but i just don't want to do all the work that i may need to do to make it work
 
i looked into this more after i bought my QA1 k member, it has been sitting in my basement for 2 months now and i am returning it to summit. after reading all the threads of wheels not fitting and other issues i decided that i don't need it. my understanding is unless its a track only car it isn't really worth it.

some people have it and say its the best mod they ever did but i just don't want to do all the work that i may need to do to make it work

Yeah, I have heard that if you are puting one on a street car then get MM cause it is the strongest and will hold up to pot holes etc. But the MM changes too much and I don't know if there is another one strong enough for street duty.

It would be nice to drop all that weight from the nose, with MM's I think it loses like 65lbs, and that's pretty substantial!

I have heard that UPR's tubular k-member keeps everything exactly as stock, but I'm not too fond of UPR products.
 
I got the Tubular D&D Motorsports K-member, Tubular A-arms, and coil overs... Mine was simple to install, and as far as i can tell it retained the stock location. Im not sure how it compares to MM cuz this is the only K-member i seen in person, but it look pretty nice IMO.

-AJ
 
Just so happens that I got my new k-member this week from PA racing. It looks great. Quality is great. It does keep all the stock wheel base location. And is suppose to offer the most header room out of all the aftermarket k-members.
It cost me $330 with out spring perches because I run coil over. The perches would be another $40 or something.

And it fit like a glove!

Here are some pics:
 
Just so happens that I got my new k-member this week from PA racing. It looks great. Quality is great. It does keep all the stock wheel base location. And is suppose to offer the most header room out of all the aftermarket k-members.
It cost me $330 with out spring perches because I run coil over. The perches would be another $40 or something.

And it fit like a glove!

Here are some pics:

Did you ever get an estimate as to how much wieght you would lose from just switching the k-members? Did you need to align anything?
 
Yes, alignment is a must.

The tubular k-member weight is 25lbs, compared to the stock at 45-50lbs.

stock k-member weight will very apon how much dirt and grind you have built up over the years:lol: mine had about 10lbs of dirt and grease

Stock coils are about 12lbs each compared to the coilover at 5lbs each.

so weight savings was around 35lbs.I have seen claim of a 60lbs drop with The k-member, a-arms and coilover kits.I didn't do it for the weight, I have a turbo kit in the works and this will give me way more room for the piping.

Now for the added bonus of the weight savings, it will help offset the weight of the future turbo kit alittle.

Every little helps in the end. You save the weight with a k-member, get alum. heads, move the battery to the trunk, and a fiberglass hood and you have just took the weight of a person off the front of the car.:nice:
 
Yes, alignment is a must.

The tubular k-member weight is 25lbs, compared to the stock at 45-50lbs.

stock k-member weight will very apon how much dirt and grind you have built up over the years:lol: mine had about 10lbs of dirt and grease

Stock coils are about 12lbs each compared to the coilover at 5lbs each.

so weight savings was around 35lbs.I have seen claim of a 60lbs drop with The k-member, a-arms and coilover kits.I didn't do it for the weight, I have a turbo kit in the works and this will give me way more room for the piping.

Now for the added bonus of the weight savings, it will help offset the weight of the future turbo kit alittle.

Every little helps in the end. You save the weight with a k-member, get alum. heads, move the battery to the trunk, and a fiberglass hood and you have just took the weight of a person off the front of the car.:nice:

Wow...What year mustang is all this work being done on?
 
Just so happens that I got my new k-member this week from PA racing. It looks great. Quality is great. It does keep all the stock wheel base location. And is suppose to offer the most header room out of all the aftermarket k-members.
It cost me $330 with out spring perches because I run coil over. The perches would be another $40 or something.

And it fit like a glove!

Here are some pics:

Did you order it directly from PA racing? All I see on their website are the kits with a-arms and coil overs. I already have MM a- arms and coilovers.

Anybody else know anything about the PA Racing k-members or vouch for their durability.

I have heard a lot of K-members don't hold up to well on the street when it comes to pot-holes and crap. My car is mostly a street car with a little bit of drag time and road course time througout the year.
 
Yes, I did buy direct from PA racing. here is a link directly to the mustang
k-member. Base price is $249 but will increase with every option you add.

http://paracing.com/product_info.ph...d=126&osCsid=85ff3601eb267ec3951496cda0deac09

The car is a 88lx convertible.

My car will only see the street during cruising, and may make it out to the track a few times a year. I really only put about 3000miles on the car a year.

Here is a pic from the passenger wheel well:
 
Just so happens that I got my new k-member this week from PA racing. It looks great. Quality is great. It does keep all the stock wheel base location. And is suppose to offer the most header room out of all the aftermarket k-members.
It cost me $330 with out spring perches because I run coil over. The perches would be another $40 or something.

And it fit like a glove!

Here are some pics:

Yours looks almost identical to my D&D k-member...
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-aJ
 

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Bringing this thread back to life...

Anybody know anything about the UPR chrome-moly K-members? I have heard several negative things about UPR products, but their K-members are pretty decently priced and they claim they are pretty strong. Here's what they have on their webiste about them:

Exceeds any strength limitations of mild steel while allowing maximum header and oil pan clearance, This kit was designed for the abuse of hardcore dragrace, roadrace, and Street Enthusiasts most importantly it will handle the everyday wear and tear of city & highway streets like that was it's main intent.

I have heard they keep stock dimensions as well.