Is this a bad install or just a cheap clutch?

Davin

Founding Member
Mar 9, 2000
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Jacksonville, FL
I just had a new clutch installed. My King Cobra was shot. I went with a HD FMS-M-7560-A302N (veleo?) and FMS cast iron flywheel. I got it back after install and it feels nice until I hit about 5000 rpm. Then its not horrible vibration but its definitly a lot more vibration than there was before. Do you think it just wasn't installed well or is that what I got what I paid for?
 
Maybe they did not tighten the bolts on the flywheel enough... I know I just replaced my clutch with a BOSS HD clutch off ebay and resurfaced my flywheel and I have never felt a car rev so smoothly and shift smoothly.
 
i remember someone on here saying that they needed to get their clutch balanced because it was causing vibrations.

did they replace the pilot bearing? if it was damaged it could be causing ur vibs



also how old is ur balancer?
 
Is it only RPM dependant, or is it speed dependant (it happens at 5K in any gear, or it only happens at 5K in like 4th)?

I don't think having a clutch imbalance issue (intrinsic to the clutch assembly itself) is real common. I run the same Valeo HD kit but I don't tach up that high.

Good luck.
 
what up Hissin? Anyway, its mostly upper RPM but do think it is a little worse the higher the gear...I'll have to take it out tomorrow after work to be sure..I think its mostly independent of gear...
mo..to my knowledge it is impossible to install a flywheel wrong b/c of the bolt layout..though its been a while since I did one, I'd need a second opinion...
 
I had a similar problem when I replaced my clutch and flywheel. They installed a 50oz flywheel and the car needed 28oz flywheel. The car seemed ok until it rev'd above 4000 rpm's even in neutral. Is there a lot of vibration on the shift when you rev it......if so you got the wrong flywheel.


EDIT: just felt "heavy" at lower RPM's but it was hard to tell until you rev it up

Bill
 
oh boy, I hope I didn't waste $300 on installing the wrong flywheel... remind me what is the stock balance for our engines.. I thought it was 50. I had CHP balance mine to whatever stock was and I used my old balancer (non-stock) and flywheel on the new engine for nearly 2K with no problems..the summit racing site says its 50oz(not that I put stock in that)
 
You should need a 50oz imbalance if you had it balanced to the same as stock, so you can check early alzheimer's off the list of potential problems; you're not losing your mind... :D
I'd be pointing more at the possibility of a clutch problem more than anything, if the issue was non-existent prior to the clutch being changed. The flywheel can only bolt on one way because of the bolt pattern. Valeo makes clutches for almost every automaker and parts distributor (FRPP, Centerforce, Ram all come to mind). I might be inclined to pull it apart and re-torque everything myself to ensure it was done properly, since I don't think your almost new balancer is the problem.
 
Hey bud. :)

I agree with Matt all the way - his info is right-on with the various balances and such.
This stuff sucks because it often requires R/R and tossing money at it. If you go back in there, I'd really check the flywheel to ensure it is the correct part number and imbalance. I'm not sure if a machine shop can check a flywheel or clutch for rotational imbalance in a cost-effective way, but it sure would be cool to get that info.
 
You gotta hear this...

Okay, so I took the car back today b/c I realized that the vibration was happening even when reving in neutral. It is there throughout but just gets worse at the rpms go up. When I got there the owner was not there. People were nice until the mechanic got back from lunch. He sat in the car with me and I let him feel the vibration..his response was something like, "so, they're your parts, your brought them and we put them in, there's only one way to do it." (note - insert a lot of attitude and a big chip on the shoulder). Now heaven forbid, I started asking him about how he did it and he was getting really upset and started droppin the f-bomb on me. I told him to get out of the car. I tried to ask him how he did it but he kept getting upset so I went to the front and got the owner on the line. While the owner called the mechanic to get his side, one of the other mechanics noted to me that the new flywheel didn't come with any of those little pins (read: alignment dowels). I said that the new ones don't come with them and that they had to be taken from the old flywheel. He admitted that they had put the new flywheel in without the dowels. Now, I'm not the best mechanic in the world, but as far as I can tell, those things are not only needed to properly align the pressure plate, but they also have weight. Trying to install the flywheel and clutch without these could cause a problem couldn't it?:bang:
The owner said that they would look at it but didn't want to talk about things like torque values. This really pisses me off b/c when I took the car in he assured me that they were "all about performance" but how can you be all about performance and not care about torque values or tightening sequences, or remenbering to use the FREAKING alignment dowels??? I left my car, hopefully the owner (who seems like a decent guy BTW) will make things right..If he doesn't I'm gonna sue him.:mad:
 
Ah brah, that bites. The dowels are quite important. They are relevant to vibration! as well as increasing the amount of torque necessary to break the clutch assembly loose (I guess it would be a shear strength type of thing).

If you go to any clutch or flywheel manufacturer's site and check the FAQ, it should say this. You could print that stuff out (from as many sites as you desire - more sources are better!) and take it to the shop. It seems to me that it should be on them (their nickel) to R/R and make things right since they admitted not using the dowels. Also, ensuring proper torque specs is critical as well (as well as torquing in a star pattern, in stages).

Also, if the shop is unreasonable, let us know if you paid with a credit card - there can be another source of remedy if you did. As always with this type of thing (though it makes us sick), be real nice and calm when you go back or they're likely to tell ya to take a hike.

I really would try not to drive the car too much if you can - those torsional vibrations can really rip apart the driveline and bottom end of the motor.

Good luck with it bud.
 
I did pay with credit card though I must admit I'm not sure about the process of disputing a charge.

They have the car now and I trust the the owner is going to try to make it right, I just don't think that he believes hand torquing vs air guns is as critical as I do. If I get it back and it drives fine I guess I'd be happy but just knowing that it wasn't done to spec would grind at me. I'll print out ford's notes and see if I can get them to budge.
 
well, live and learn I guess...
Long story short, I had the guys install the dowels and torque everything down by hand to spec and the vibration was still there.
After that, based on the shop owner's recommendation, I let them machine the flywheel and reinstall, and everything was fine.
The good news is that the car runs nice..the bad news is that it cost me another $350.
What rips me too is that I spend $100 for a new flywheel b/c I wanted things to be perfect...damn. Oh well, at least it's good now.