can u guys tell me if this setup is good? first i need to ask why c&l are bad? i do have a 73mm with 24# injectors it does idle crappy. mods are 302 stock bottom end tfs heads, stage 1 cam, upper and lower intake. besides the c&l being crappy i have a 70mm throttle body 70 mm spacer going into a 73mm tube?? this is the way i bought the car.?????????? what needs to be changed??
is this a problem??????????
- Thread starter jimc347
- Start date
Dbeck002
New Member
i have an almost identical setup.
73mm CL
70mm TB and spacer
Aftermarket heads (AFR)
My car idles anywhere between 700 and 900. it goes up and down. does yours do that?
73mm CL
70mm TB and spacer
Aftermarket heads (AFR)
My car idles anywhere between 700 and 900. it goes up and down. does yours do that?
srothfuss
Last night I stabbed the same guy 7 times in a row
Many people have problems with the C&L meters on their cars. Is your stock air box still hooked up? If your just have an air filter attached to the MAF, that is surely causing your problems. If that isn't the case I'd say the meter is causing your problems.
AT the top of this forum (5.0 Tech) is the best write up on surging idle. Run through those things and if you still have trouble it'll be time to change out your C&L.
Daggar has a link to the new Pro-M site in his signature. That would be the company I choose to replace my bad meter with (If I was you...)
AT the top of this forum (5.0 Tech) is the best write up on surging idle. Run through those things and if you still have trouble it'll be time to change out your C&L.
Daggar has a link to the new Pro-M site in his signature. That would be the company I choose to replace my bad meter with (If I was you...)
srothfuss
Last night I stabbed the same guy 7 times in a row
Are you running a mechanical fan?
If so: The air that the fan is moving is being sent through your open air filter (not closed off to the engine bay) and passed the MAF. This extra air is what will trigger your idle problems. I would suggest that you should look for a stock air box on eBay or Fenderwell kit for your air filter.
If not: Have you tested for vacuum leaks?
Edit: Grammar
If so: The air that the fan is moving is being sent through your open air filter (not closed off to the engine bay) and passed the MAF. This extra air is what will trigger your idle problems. I would suggest that you should look for a stock air box on eBay or Fenderwell kit for your air filter.
If not: Have you tested for vacuum leaks?
Edit: Grammar
srothfuss
Last night I stabbed the same guy 7 times in a row
You only need to add this part of the system. (Either a stock box or kit that moves the filter into the fender and out of the engine bay.)
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
Sometimes a simple shield out of sheet metal or gutter flashing can block air wash from the cooling fan. Remember, when you move only the filter to the fender well, yoiu have an elbow in front of the meter - and that impacts the way it 'reads' the flow as well.
srothfuss
Last night I stabbed the same guy 7 times in a row
Michael Yount said:
This would probably be the most cost effective way to verify that the fan 'wash' isn't causing the problem. I never thought about that. Very good point indeed.
Michael Yount said:
Again, very good point. I wonder if this has anything to with the 'power pipes' actually making more power over the typical fenderwell CAI.
just4bob50
Active Member
My brothers C&L 76mm never ran right, and he bought a pro-m. After the pro-m his car ran great. My friend had problems with his C&L meter and all he ended up doing was clocking the meter about 90 degs. clockwise and it pretty much got rid of his idle problems.
Curse
Member
just4bob50 said:
I had to clock my C&L so my car could idle somewhat ok with an open K&N on the meter. The crazy part is on my friends mustang with my C&L his car idled/ran great
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