Is this fender worth saving?

palerider94

Member
Feb 21, 2006
572
1
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I think I'm going to give it a shot. Looks like there are patch panels that will cover up to the rot and original tooling fenders are a little pricey. Just curious what do you think?

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I've heard enough problems with repo fenders that I have decided to stay away from them.

2+2GT based on your response - I assuming you suggest that I buy new fender instead of trying to patch this one. Correct too far gone?
 
I've heard enough problems with repo fenders that I have decided to stay away from them.

2+2GT based on your response - I assuming you suggest that I buy new fender instead of trying to patch this one. Correct too far gone?

no he's saying its not really the "original tooling" and if it is they're usually so wore out that they make crappy panels anyway.

as long as you're good with a hammer get some automotive sheet metal (i can't remember the fancy steel term designation) and patch it yourself. It doesn't look that bad and its at the bottom of the fender so if you need a little filler when you're all done you shouldn't notice it that much
 
This is an "original tool" fender:

TT0994.jpg
 
depends, how's the rest of the car, it probably has rust too, so you won't mind having body filler on this when it is patched properly with new metal first, cause there will be body filler on other parts as well, if this was the only piece like that then you may wanna replace it and tell people you have a bondo free car, lol

could also be good sheet metal work practice, so if you have the time go for it, if you screw it up, then buy a new one, what do you have to loose righ
 
Going to try it - what do I have to lose.m Any tips?

That's right - you got nothing to lose at this point. And if you cut as low as possible on the fender, if you mess up the first time, you could always buy another patch and cut a little higher on the fender and do it again!

I'd take the patch, massage it to fit whats left of the bottom of the fender, then use a couple sheet metal screws and/or clamps to hold the patch onto the fender. The only tricky part would be the wheel arch and making sure that matches well. Then cut the patch and the fender at the same time with a cutoff tool. You should end up with nearly perfect alignment and be ready to butt weld the patch to the fender. Go slow when welding a body panel - just make spot welds to minimize distortion (you probably already know this). I always use copper welding helpers to absorb the heat and minimize burn through on butt welds.
 
For the price it's worth a try. I had a similar fender for my '64-1/2 that I took to a body shop to have a patch welded to it and they said I would not be happy with the result.