Issue with DCC FK35
- Thread starter blackcloud50
- Start date
Black Sun 5.0
Founding Member
Blackcloud, maybe I'm missing something, but I don't think the problem is the fusible link, that would only be a symptom of another problem. The link shouldn't just melt on you unless there is a problem somewhere else. As for problems with the DCC's, from my own experience using one and from reading posts here, usually it has to do with user error or a problem within the car itself. I had my first unit go to toast on me, I didn't hook it up myself. I ordered a new one, did all the connections myself, and have never had another problem. Is it a flawless product? Probably not. But what aftermarket products ever seem to be headache free? I personally think it's the best solution for switching over to an electric fan in a Fox body.
Blackcloud, the unit itself can’t draw enough current to take out the link. Either the crimp to the harness wasn’t tight, which made it overheat (I really recommend a ratcheting crimper, 16 bucks will buy a pretty decent one) or the wire shorted. I’d rather see you use the link, because the unit depends on having a reliable connection to the battery. Most of the fuse holders aren’t very reliable in the heat of the engine compartment and don’t provide that. If you would like, I can send you a new link
srothfuss
Last night I stabbed the same guy 7 times in a row
srothfuss
Last night I stabbed the same guy 7 times in a row
Black Sun 5.0 said:
Exactly my thoughts also. DCC is also one of the best companies out there... I can't even explain how gratefull I was for all of the help that was offered (even after hours) from DCC while I was still trying to find the root cause.
baskin said:
No need to send the fusible link. I will get another one and verify and double check all connections are good. Then I will see if I have any further issues.
Like I said..nothing changed and I just started having this issue. Hopefully all will be OK. Thanks for your help and I will let you know if I need further assistance.
btw, If I were to hook up a manual overide to fan high speed side, what size relay would I use?
Frank, believe me, I need this less than you do. What I’m telling you to do is look at each of these independently.
With regard to the link, the unit will provide 50A of current for 30 seconds and then ramp down to 35, regardless of the load. The unit itself can’t melt the fusible link, only a bad crimp or a shorted wire can do that. Maybe this is parially my fault, A good crimp is critical with this level of current and the auto store crimpers are virtually useless. I may very well point that out in the instructions from here on, keep in mind though that this is the first time that I've seen this.
On the alternator, you’ll notice that the voltages posted kept changing. It wasn’t that srothfuss was measuring it wrong, it was because it was changing every time he measured it, that’s what things do when they’re failing. There are people using 3G alternators for welding equipment by bypassing the regulator. It can put out an easy 120V, we know that the alternator is bad. Again, I'm not pointing any fingers here
I state right on the site that you either need to connect the unit to the battery or use the filter to connect it to the solenoid. Maybe you have a bad unit, I doubt it, given my failure rate is less than 1/2 of a percent, but can you honestly say that the trouble isn't more likely due to the fact that the unit was connected to the solenoid without using the required filter? I stated on the site, in the instructions, on the forums, and by PM to you that this was the case. Have I done too little to inform you on this matter? Do you have any suggestions with regard to how I could make it more clear? Of your problems so far Frank, who do you see as responsible, me or you?
So what do we have at the end of the day frank? Out of over a thousand units, what do these three really add up to? You're not blaming me, but you're certainly not giving me the benefit of the doubt considering the facts.
With regard to the link, the unit will provide 50A of current for 30 seconds and then ramp down to 35, regardless of the load. The unit itself can’t melt the fusible link, only a bad crimp or a shorted wire can do that. Maybe this is parially my fault, A good crimp is critical with this level of current and the auto store crimpers are virtually useless. I may very well point that out in the instructions from here on, keep in mind though that this is the first time that I've seen this.
On the alternator, you’ll notice that the voltages posted kept changing. It wasn’t that srothfuss was measuring it wrong, it was because it was changing every time he measured it, that’s what things do when they’re failing. There are people using 3G alternators for welding equipment by bypassing the regulator. It can put out an easy 120V, we know that the alternator is bad. Again, I'm not pointing any fingers here
I state right on the site that you either need to connect the unit to the battery or use the filter to connect it to the solenoid. Maybe you have a bad unit, I doubt it, given my failure rate is less than 1/2 of a percent, but can you honestly say that the trouble isn't more likely due to the fact that the unit was connected to the solenoid without using the required filter? I stated on the site, in the instructions, on the forums, and by PM to you that this was the case. Have I done too little to inform you on this matter? Do you have any suggestions with regard to how I could make it more clear? Of your problems so far Frank, who do you see as responsible, me or you?
So what do we have at the end of the day frank? Out of over a thousand units, what do these three really add up to? You're not blaming me, but you're certainly not giving me the benefit of the doubt considering the facts.
lxwants12's
New Member
- Sep 22, 2004
- 506
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hey Baskin....i am like others....i dont care about the thousands and thousands of units and success out there....a consumer always cares about that before they purchase the item,thats what influences their decison to buy. After the purchase all that matters is their experience with it. Mine hasnt been good, and i have given you the benefit of the doubt, b/c i am ordering the filter this weekend. This is your answer to my solution, so if that doesnt work, then all im simply is its not for me, its too much of a headach for me, that means i dont like it, never spoke on behalf of the thousands of people using this unit.
lxwants12's
New Member
- Sep 22, 2004
- 506
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and partly cause your trying to dog me here.....all you have to realize is you cant make every customer happy...and blaming the consumer instead of helping him isnt the best customer service either. I will say this again...I am not happy with it so far , I will order my filter b/c Baskin says that is my problem, and if the filter doesnt solve my problem then I will ask him for for a refund.
blackcloud; that would probably be how something like that would unfold with a bad connection. Every time it heats up, every thing expands and the connection gets worse, so it heats up more the next time it cycles on, sooner or lator it hits the critical pont where it just melts down. I would guess this is more likely the problem than the wiring being shorted to ground, the insulation is pretty tough on the 10 gauge wire. I would think that once the new link is installed, you'll be back to having a reliable system.
I wouldn't bother with the relay, but given that you would only use it in an emergency, I would just use the 30A bosh relay, it'll run that fan reliably for long enough to get you where you're going.
I wouldn't bother with the relay, but given that you would only use it in an emergency, I would just use the 30A bosh relay, it'll run that fan reliably for long enough to get you where you're going.
Frank; look in all of the threads you've posted in so far, have I been dogging you or trying to help you? I gave you advise on another thread and your response was that you would rather apply an open flame to the sensor than listen to what I had to say.
Again, both the instruction set and web site point out specifically that the filter is needed, there's even an explanation as to why it's needed. You don't listen to the advice that I give you, yet it is somehow my fault that your experience hasn't been good. I'm not dogging you, but I'm also not going to accept that your bad experience is anyones fault but your own.
Again, both the instruction set and web site point out specifically that the filter is needed, there's even an explanation as to why it's needed. You don't listen to the advice that I give you, yet it is somehow my fault that your experience hasn't been good. I'm not dogging you, but I'm also not going to accept that your bad experience is anyones fault but your own.
Black Sun 5.0
Founding Member
Eh, a public forum isn't always the best place to air something like this, unless there is a real problem on the vendor's side (you know, like a scam). As I posted earlier, aftermarket products are far from perfect, that's the beauty of having these forums. Stangs are well known for every problem that can be conceived of, especially elctrical issues. If the unit falied because of a relocated battery, well, there is a product on the DCC site specifically for this. It's no secret. Play it cheap, get burned. My DCC is quirky, but it could be the way the sensor is placed, the type of radiator, or circulation issues in the coolant system. Maybe all of the above. I have the remote temp adjuster in the car, and I have to readjust it somewhat frequently. It's just the nature of the beast. But it works.
I have personally seen crimped connections do some very strange things. I had a Cessna 210 that had an intermittent no crank problem. The electrical system was remarkably similar to the 5.0 Stang. The starter was mounted under the engine, and caught all the dripping oil. Some oil got into the 4 gauge crimped power feed wire. The result was an engine that cranked sometimes and wouldn't crank others. I found it by burning my hand on the hot crimped on terminal while troubleshooting the no crank condition. Pain in unusual circumstances makes for a lasting impression...
baskin said:
I double checked all of my wiring and connections this evening to the fan and controller. All is OK with it. Nothing is shorted to ground and nothing is being pinched. What is left for me to do now is remove the inline fuse and replace with the fusible link and pay extra special attention to the crimp. I will post an update as soon as I find the outcome.
FWIW, I let my car idle in my driveway for atleast 1/2 hour and the fan turned on and off as it should. This is with the 30 amp inline fuse.
I am unclear about a few things and trying to understand.
1. The power wiring that runs from the FK35 to the battery is of what gauge? 10awg or 12awg?
2. Current ratings of wire sizes I found are as follows:
10 awg = capable of 33 amps which would use 30 amp fuse or link
12 awg = capable of 21 amps which would use 20 amp fuse or link
14 awg (fusible link) supplied in kit = capable of 13 amps which would use 15 amp fuse
How could a 14 awg fusible link allow enough current to pass to the controller if the link is only designed to allow approx. 13-15 amps and the controller can pull a max of 50 amps then down to 35 amps?
What am I missing here?
1. The power wiring that runs from the FK35 to the battery is of what gauge? 10awg or 12awg?
2. Current ratings of wire sizes I found are as follows:
10 awg = capable of 33 amps which would use 30 amp fuse or link
12 awg = capable of 21 amps which would use 20 amp fuse or link
14 awg (fusible link) supplied in kit = capable of 13 amps which would use 15 amp fuse
How could a 14 awg fusible link allow enough current to pass to the controller if the link is only designed to allow approx. 13-15 amps and the controller can pull a max of 50 amps then down to 35 amps?
What am I missing here?
blackcloud50 said:
You're missing context. Take a look at the 30A fuses that you have, the wire is made out of the same copper as the 10 gauge, what gauge do you estimate the fuse to be? Maybe 20 gauge?
The rating depends on a number of things, but mainly the length of the wire, the insulation thermal conductivity, and insulation thickness. The cross linked insulation is a lot tougher than what's on the automotive store wiring, this allows it to be much thinner, so more heat dissipates. It also has a much higher temperature rating than both the automotive store and factory Ford wiring
Before you attach the fusible link, take a lighter to the 10 gauge. Hold it there as long as you can. You'll find not only that it won't burn, but that it won't even change properties or color. Now try the same thing on the fuse holder that you bought, it'll probably go up as soon as the flame hits it.
14 gauge fusible link is correct for 10 gauge wire
Here's a page comparing fuse size vs link size
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/electrical-links.html
10 gauge is correct
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/electrical-links.html
10 gauge is correct
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