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Issues With Being Lowered

  • Thread starter Thread starter Seclusioned
  • Start date Start date Nov 6, 2012
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Deleted member 38176

Nov 8, 2012
#21
  • Nov 8, 2012
  • #21
Seclusioned said:
Yeah I will be taking the bullitt stuff off. But arnt the rims bullitt rims too? Or bullitt style at least. I dont want to lose the rims. I like them to much lol. But I got under as much as I could today and counted 9 coils on the rear springs. Saturday morning its going on the lift just to see what all is going on. Ill take pics of everything and post back. To me it looks as though someone heated the springs to lower them. The coils are almost touching each other and some are kinda wider then the rest like they are bent out of place.

Any suggestions on a good set of springs, shocks, and struts. Not the best, but not the worst! It has caster camber plates already. I would like to do a good bit to the suspension as well. A full package would be nice but Ive seen them for 800+ and Im not spending that money just yet unless I have to. And I want to keep it lower in the front then the rear. I always liked the stance of lower in the front.
Click to expand...

No, no, no, keep the rims! The same rims came on all premium GT's (not just Bullitts).

If the springs are as compressed as you say they are, that lends to the possibility that they are overloaded, ie that they are V6 rated springs and the extra weight from the 4.6 is overbearing them. As far as replacing the springs, it just depends on what you're looking for as far as ride height. Eibach, H&R, STEEDA, BBK, and FRPP are all popular choices.

Heres my car with H&R super sport springs (1.75" drop front, 1.6" drop rear)
 

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Seclusioned

Member
Nov 2, 2012
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Montgomery AL
Nov 8, 2012
#22
  • Nov 8, 2012
  • #22
Nightfire said:
No, no, no, keep the rims! The same rims came on all premium GT's (not just Bullitts).

If the springs are as compressed as you say they are, that lends to the possibility that they are overloaded, ie that they are V6 rated springs and the extra weight from the 4.6 is overbearing them. As far as replacing the springs, it just depends on what you're looking for as far as ride height. Eibach, H&R, STEEDA, BBK, and FRPP are all popular choices.

Heres my car with H&R super sport springs (1.75" drop front, 1.6" drop rear)
Click to expand...


That looks good. I just want to get rid of the wheel rub. I want it to be low thats for sure. Id like to be able to tell its lowered more in the front then the rear. But yeah Ill take the bullitt stuff off the car.
 

TRAIL BOSS

New Member
Apr 21, 2006
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Nov 10, 2012
#23
  • Nov 10, 2012
  • #23
All you need to do is roll your fenders.You can do it yourself with a baseball bat and some heat...Its easy and it will stop your tires from slicing .Do a google search on rolling a fender.
 

Rejekt

Member
Aug 12, 2010
546
13
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Raleigh, NC
Nov 10, 2012
#24
  • Nov 10, 2012
  • #24
I went with H&R SS springs, MM caster camber kit, and Tokico HP shocks/ struts.
 

Seclusioned

Member
Nov 2, 2012
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Montgomery AL
Nov 10, 2012
#25
  • Nov 10, 2012
  • #25
Well I got under it today. Not on a lift but I wanted to see what the springs were doing. Its going on the lift tomorrow. But its got eibach springs... I uploaded a pic of them. Someone told me to go to advance auto parts and buy some aluminum twist spring spacers.... Not to sure about that. I have uploaded some pics of the passenger tire and the spring
 

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Seclusioned

Member
Nov 2, 2012
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Montgomery AL
Nov 10, 2012
#26
  • Nov 10, 2012
  • #26
joshjwc9 said:
Looks like someone just threw the badge on it. I saw your other thread and it seems like someone did put some money into it. I'd make sure what rear end/trans and gears you have in there too when you can get it up in the air.

Take pictures of the springs, rear end cover, find the drain plug on the trans, and prepare yourself to replace a couple things that the owner got wrong whenever he had particular parts installed. I.E. the clutch cable.
Click to expand...

As far as the clutch cable I know that it has this on it..

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sda-555-7041/media/images/year/2002/make/ford/model/mustang
 

joshjwc9

Active Member
Jun 12, 2006
1,095
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Palm Harbor, FL
Nov 10, 2012
#27
  • Nov 10, 2012
  • #27
Well, it looks like it is a Pro Kit spring setup. Make sure the fronts are the same. (Eibach). The Pro Kit shouldn't sag like that, so you might want to look around locally for some decent used lowering springs.

Well, I had a Steeda cable for about 2 years then it just binded up and snapped inside the sheath. I bought a MM non adjustable cable and my clutch feels like a Honda CRX now, even with beefy clutch too.
 
0

007

Founding Member
Jan 29, 2002
3,287
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69
Broke
Nov 11, 2012
#28
  • Nov 11, 2012
  • #28
I wonder if they are right part number for the car? Pro Kit shouldnt be that low. The front defo shouldnt look like that.

Eibach Pro Kit did have a massive sag problem years ago. Tons of folks tried to get their money back. It was the rear speing that were sagging badly over time.

Do the springs have rubber isolators on both ends? If not you could buy some nice urethane isolators that would buy you about 1/2" of extra height.
 
D

Deleted member 38176

Nov 11, 2012
#29
  • Nov 11, 2012
  • #29
I could be wrong, but I ran the part #'s pictured on the spring and kept coming back with Mitsubishi Eclipse springs
 

joshjwc9

Active Member
Jun 12, 2006
1,095
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39
Palm Harbor, FL
Nov 11, 2012
#30
  • Nov 11, 2012
  • #30
Nightfire said:
I could be wrong, but I ran the part #'s pictured on the spring and kept coming back with Mitsubishi Eclipse springs
Click to expand...
Huh?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EIB-3510-002/
 

joshjwc9

Active Member
Jun 12, 2006
1,095
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Palm Harbor, FL
Nov 11, 2012
#31
  • Nov 11, 2012
  • #31
To the OP, just search on CL for a new set all the way around. Buy something with a name brand i.e. H&R, Steeda, BBK etc. Just stay away from used Eibach's. Older Eibach springs sag (and sometimes break, compromising the spring rate causing an awful ride.)
 
D

Deleted member 38176

Nov 11, 2012
#32
  • Nov 11, 2012
  • #32
joshjwc9 said:
Huh?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EIB-3510-002/
Click to expand...

Yea, I was wrong lol
 

Seclusioned

Member
Nov 2, 2012
54
1
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Montgomery AL
Nov 11, 2012
#33
  • Nov 11, 2012
  • #33
Lol. Well it doesnt have the rubber pieces in there or even a bump stop. I went to a local mustang club and they had a set of lowering springs. they are Steedas. Got them for 100$. Raised up the whole car maybe 1.25. I went to the drag strip today and I am not happy. Its probably me not knowing how to drive the car. As I have only ever had a bike on the strip. But my best run was a .01 reaction time 2.13 60ft 6.11 330 1/8 9.29@76mph and 14.3 1/4@98.9mph. From my research the 99-02s should do high 13s low 14s BONE STOCK!. Im having to shift before the 60ft, Im spinning all the way through 1st gear. I was running 20psi in the rear tires trying to leave the line at 2000rpm. Im hittin 4th gear just before the 1/4 mile mark. Im not happy.

For anyone who wants to know what is done to my car you can look at my sig and there is a link
 
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phatboy5015

Member
Feb 5, 2012
60
1
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Nov 11, 2012
#34
  • Nov 11, 2012
  • #34
Seclusioned said:
Lol. Well it doesnt have the rubber pieces in there or even a bump stop. I went to a local mustang club and they had a set of lowering springs. they are Steedas. Got them for 100$. Raised up the whole car maybe 1.25. I went to the drag strip today and I am not happy. Its probably me not knowing how to drive the car. As I have only ever had a bike on the strip. But my best run was a .01 reaction time 2.13 60ft 6.11 330 1/8 9.29@76mph and 14.3 1/4@98.9mph. From my research the 99-02s should do high 13s low 14s BONE STOCK!. Im having to shift before the 60ft, Im spinning all the way through 1st gear. I was running 20psi in the rear tires trying to leave the line at 2000rpm. Im hittin 4th gear just before the 1/4 mile mark. Im not happy.

For anyone who wants to know what is done to my car you can look at my sig and there is a link
Click to expand...
Don't feel too bad. I had 4.10s and the best I could do was a 14.1 @ 99. It really depends on temperature and track prep. Also, don't worry about your reaction time AT ALL. It doesn't matter whatsoever, unless you plan to bracket race.
 

Seclusioned

Member
Nov 2, 2012
54
1
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Montgomery AL
Nov 11, 2012
#35
  • Nov 11, 2012
  • #35
phatboy5015 said:
Don't feel too bad. I had 4.10s and the best I could do was a 14.1 @ 99. It really depends on temperature and track prep. Also, don't worry about your reaction time AT ALL. It doesn't matter whatsoever, unless you plan to bracket race.
Click to expand...

Well yeah I know that. I just think it should be doing better then this crap. Its sickening. What could be the issue if its not me? Im not power shifting or anything. Just lettin off the gas hittin the clutch and changin gear then back on gas.
 
D

Deleted member 38176

Nov 11, 2012
#36
  • Nov 11, 2012
  • #36
Dude, not only was it your first pass down the track in that car....it sounds like it's your first pass down the track PERIOD. Thats actually not too bad for someone who has never been to the 1320. Just get some more practice and you should be well into the 13's easily.
 

Seclusioned

Member
Nov 2, 2012
54
1
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Montgomery AL
Nov 11, 2012
#37
  • Nov 11, 2012
  • #37
Nightfire said:
Dude, not only was it your first pass down the track in that car....it sounds like it's your first pass down the track PERIOD. Thats actually not too bad for someone who has never been to the 1320. Just get some more practice and you should be well into the 13's easily.
Click to expand...
But with whats done to this car id think high 12s.. Its either got 3.73s or 4.10s. Im not sure. But Im having to shift within 60 ft!?! Thats killin my 60ft. Plus Im still spinning. Idk I just think it should be doing 12s. Let me rephrase the not ran in a car. Ive never ran a manual down the track. I ran my Z28 a couple of times before I built it and it was auto and had a goodwrench crate trans with fuzion street tires. It ran a 14.0. I just think this mustang should be doing at least a high 12. I dont get it. And lots of passes on my old ZX600 ninja. I was doing high 10s on a stock 600. But thats a bike.
 
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phatboy5015

Member
Feb 5, 2012
60
1
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Nov 11, 2012
#38
  • Nov 11, 2012
  • #38
Seclusioned said:
But with whats done to this car id think high 12s.. Its either got 3.73s or 4.10s. Im not sure. But Im having to shift within 60 ft!?! Thats killin my 60ft. Plus Im still spinning. Idk I just think it should be doing 12s. Let me rephrase the not ran in a car. Ive never ran a manual down the track. I ran my Z28 a couple of times before I built it and it was auto and had a goodwrench crate trans with fuzion street tires. It ran a 14.0. I just think this mustang should be doing at least a high 12. I dont get it. And lots of passes on my old ZX600 ninja. I was doing high 10s on a stock 600. But thats a bike.
Click to expand...
What's all done to the car? Also lowering springs are not good for launching. And I seriously doubt you're shifting during the 60'. I have 4.10s and I can manage a 1.9 on crappy street tires. You just need more practice.
 

Seclusioned

Member
Nov 2, 2012
54
1
8
Montgomery AL
Nov 11, 2012
#39
  • Nov 11, 2012
  • #39
phatboy5015 said:
What's all done to the car? Also lowering springs are not good for launching. And I seriously doubt you're shifting during the 60'. I have 4.10s and I can manage a 1.9 on crappy street tires. You just need more practice.
Click to expand...

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...inally-be-a-part-of-the-mustang-world.863185/

Are you hitting 4th in the 1/4?
 
P

phatboy5015

Member
Feb 5, 2012
60
1
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Nov 11, 2012
#40
  • Nov 11, 2012
  • #40
Seclusioned said:
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...inally-be-a-part-of-the-mustang-world.863185/

Are you hitting 4th in the 1/4?
Click to expand...
I pushing 10-11 psi, so I'm bouncing off the limiter in 4th about 100 ft before the quarter. Lol.
 
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