When are we 2005 owners getting a real external intake setup? We don't have one now. That's my opinion and I'm sticking to it. Here's my take:
- CDC "Shaker" System: It uses the factory airbox, for one. More tubing=more heat and less density. But the real problems I see with this unit is that it is so narrow, and so close to the hood. This means that it is going to be right inside the Laminar flow, which to the layman means "non-moving air". Literally. In textbook laminar flow, the air does not move at all. Obviously there is some movement here, but it's the opposite of ideal placement.
- Steeda "Cowl Induction" hood: It's not cowl induction, it's cowl exhaust. That pretty much sums it up. Nice hood, but it does zero induction. It just provides a place for the hot, high-pressure air under the hood to vent into the airstream. In addition, the hood is venting in the exact same place that a "true" cowl induction system would be pulling air IN. That means the air trying to get out from under the hood has to battle against the high pressure zone where the hood meets the window, the same high-pressure area used by real cowl induction to get cold air in to the engine.
- WMS CAI: Places the intake in an area that is blistering hot. Their intake is still under the hood, but is designed to draw air through the front grill. Unfortunately this means the air must go through or over the radiator. Their "ram" setup has what may be a heat shield, but the angle of it would disallow direct airflow through the grill...it would have to come through the slots cut in the bottom of the shield, which would both restrict and change the direction of the airflow.
Most companies claiming "Ram Air" are using a buzzword. In order to have true Ram Air, you need to be completely above the laminar flow. That's why the scoop on a drag racing car is a foot above the hood, where the air is actually moving.
The place where the MOST static pressure is created would be an air dam. I'd like to see an air dam with an intake in it. Then you have issues such as duct length, and driving through puddles can be a highly expensive venture, but overall this to me would be ideal.
Thoughts, flames and questions welcomed.
- CDC "Shaker" System: It uses the factory airbox, for one. More tubing=more heat and less density. But the real problems I see with this unit is that it is so narrow, and so close to the hood. This means that it is going to be right inside the Laminar flow, which to the layman means "non-moving air". Literally. In textbook laminar flow, the air does not move at all. Obviously there is some movement here, but it's the opposite of ideal placement.
- Steeda "Cowl Induction" hood: It's not cowl induction, it's cowl exhaust. That pretty much sums it up. Nice hood, but it does zero induction. It just provides a place for the hot, high-pressure air under the hood to vent into the airstream. In addition, the hood is venting in the exact same place that a "true" cowl induction system would be pulling air IN. That means the air trying to get out from under the hood has to battle against the high pressure zone where the hood meets the window, the same high-pressure area used by real cowl induction to get cold air in to the engine.
- WMS CAI: Places the intake in an area that is blistering hot. Their intake is still under the hood, but is designed to draw air through the front grill. Unfortunately this means the air must go through or over the radiator. Their "ram" setup has what may be a heat shield, but the angle of it would disallow direct airflow through the grill...it would have to come through the slots cut in the bottom of the shield, which would both restrict and change the direction of the airflow.
Most companies claiming "Ram Air" are using a buzzword. In order to have true Ram Air, you need to be completely above the laminar flow. That's why the scoop on a drag racing car is a foot above the hood, where the air is actually moving.
The place where the MOST static pressure is created would be an air dam. I'd like to see an air dam with an intake in it. Then you have issues such as duct length, and driving through puddles can be a highly expensive venture, but overall this to me would be ideal.
Thoughts, flames and questions welcomed.