It's All Been Done..

OrangeRush98

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Mar 3, 2017
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Oklahoma
Hi, this is my first time ever using a forum. I would like to get some feedback from you all before I hit the dyno in a few weeks. Maybe I can get some estimates as to what to expect when I get there as far as HP/TQ and 1/4 time. I've never been to a dyno nor have I ran at the track, but that is soon to come. So I bought a 98 GT that has basically all the bolt ons it could have besides gears and pulleys. Its an 03 4.6l Block.It's N/A, it's Auto trans with a shift kit, and it doesn't have forged internals, so I'm scared to boost it. I've got .500 cams, Ford racing upper and lower intake manifolds, Ford racing throttle body, C&L CAI, ford racing plenum and spacer, PI heads, 42k coils, 24lb injectors, SCT tuner, off-road to flow masters, and long tubes. The suspension and brakes have been upgraded as well. It runs and pulls hard, but I feel like the mods aren't working together. I think a good tune at the dyno will help alot. What should I expect as far as numbers go?
 

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Don't be afraid of boost. A proper tuner will keep it safe and make good power.

Being you have a 98 it's the bastard year. You have to drop and drill your fuel pump basket so it doesn't suck the sump dry and burn out a pump.
 
Would a Supercharger, or turbos be the safer option while maintaining a decent power and torque gain? Btw the engine has only 32,000 or so on it. The car was owned by a marine who had it shipped to germany, then back home. It was a barn find.
 
The open element filter in the engine bay is not helping you at all. You are sacking in hot engine air.
For every 10* in temp rise there is a 1% loss in HP.
So on a cool 70* day your sucking in 160* air. That's around a 10% power loss... get a good Cai that puts the filter outside the engine compartment or shields it from the rest of the bay
 
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Would a Supercharger, or turbos be the safer option while maintaining a decent power and torque gain? Btw the engine has only 32,000 or so on it. The car was owned by a marine who had it shipped to germany, then back home. It was a barn find.
You will need a tune no matter what you do, boost isn't cheap all your fuel components will need to be upgraded.
 
Do they make boxes that will suck from the wheel well? I was actually really worried about that myself. I know it's not good the way it is. I'm pretty handy, so I'm thinking about rigging up some sort of box. Do you know of a material that has heat shielding qualitys? Maybe actual duct tape, the kind meant for air ducts?
 
You don't have calibrated maf in mod
Motor cars like you do foxes. Any maf or injector changes need adjusted with a tune.
The fox cars are also set in the ECU, the "calibrated" maf just lies to the ECU.
Either way changing where/how the filter is located relative to the MAF will affect the transfer function of that sensor.

Example- 93 cobra cars have the same sensor as the other foxes, but have 24lb injectors.
-you can change the pigtail to a mod motor oval plug on a fox, then use a 90mm Lmaf. The transfer function must be re-plotted in the fox ecu...
 
So when I get it dyno tuned the 20th, they will go in and do all of the calibration, and ECU programming? Would that be part of the drivability tune? Also, how complicated is it to change rear end gears? I know I can do it, I just never have and I'm curious as to what I'm gonna be getting myself into. Will better gears affect my speedometer? Is the speedo sensor a wheel speed sensor?