Its official, My Fox has more $$ in now than its worth...
- Thread starter mr_woodster
- Start date
2.3Lxhatch311
New Member
daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaamn those are nice wheels my man. That's a pretty big camber problem. I'd think non-stock application struts could definatley have something to do with that. But with your obvious aptitude for stang tinkering, I bet you can figure it out. If not, any shop with a good Hunter 4-wheel should be able to. Those have to be the shiniest, cleanest, sweetest wheels I've ever seen on a stang. Your car will definatley be a thing of awe when you're done with it.
The camber/toe change is because of the SN95 spindles. Same thing happens when you put on 11" 5.0 brakes.
The toe is easy, You can use a tape measure to set that. Next time you're online, I can show you how to make a camber gauge for under 10$. Trust me, it is well worth it. Caster isn't ajustable from the factory, and if you have CC plates, you just max them out, so no need to worry about caster. A 10$ tool and you can do your own alignments for life.
BTW, looking great!
The toe is easy, You can use a tape measure to set that. Next time you're online, I can show you how to make a camber gauge for under 10$. Trust me, it is well worth it. Caster isn't ajustable from the factory, and if you have CC plates, you just max them out, so no need to worry about caster. A 10$ tool and you can do your own alignments for life.
BTW, looking great!
SVO1
Lord of The somethin' somethin' somethin', hell, I
The tool you are talking about is it a Bubble level sort of deal?bhuff30 said:The camber/toe change is because of the SN95 spindles. Same thing happens when you put on 11" 5.0 brakes.
The toe is easy, You can use a tape measure to set that. Next time you're online, I can show you how to make a camber gauge for under 10$. Trust me, it is well worth it. Caster isn't ajustable from the factory, and if you have CC plates, you just max them out, so no need to worry about caster. A 10$ tool and you can do your own alignments for life.
BTW, looking great!
Woodster- Looks good!
Doing the coil overs and 5.0 upgrade to my 87 as we speak.
Hm, all I did today was finish up some brackets to mount my Starion intercooler in the front of my TC. Guess my one intercooler pipe is gonna be coming out behind the passenger side headlight 
TurboFlush
Founding Member
SVO1 said:
I envy you...i pulled one spring out and the 2 hours it took to get it back i was thinking "How beautifuly simple life would be if this was a coilover setup..." When i come back in the lowering stage, its going coilver on the fronts atleast, no way i would do all that work for a stock placed spring
Also, bhuff, deffinatly post, in great need as my car is pigeon-toed
SVO1
Lord of The somethin' somethin' somethin', hell, I
Funny, I have never had an issue with springs till the 87. I fought it for a few days, got mad and bought coiloversmr_woodster said:I envy you...i pulled one spring out and the 2 hours it took to get it back i was thinking "How beautifuly simple life would be if this was a coilover setup..." When i come back in the lowering stage, its going coilver on the fronts atleast, no way i would do all that work for a stock placed spring
Also, bhuff, deffinatly post, in great need as my car is pigeon-toed
and I wish I was going 5 lug right now
well i got my "toe in" squared away so i can atleast make a trip to the alignment shop, im sure it needs some more fixing for the toe-in and the way off camber.
Alright, there are several people interested in the alignment tool, so here it goes.
I bought the cheapest 18" long level I could find. It ended up being a house brand for $8.00 I think. The most important aspect to the level is the ability to measure how verticle a wall is. Basically, you put adjustable length bolts in the level so you can tell how many inches in the top lip of the wheel is as compared to the bottom lip of the wheel.
You need to drill 2 holes in the level to put 3-4" long 1/4" bolts in. Locate the holes so they line up to the lips on the wheel, as if you were measuring how verticle the wheel is. The holes will go through the thicker of the sides. Then, put in your 3-4" long 1/4" bolts with washers and nuts.
The idea is that you bolts will be adjustable so you can make the level indicate verticle. At 0* camber, the length of the bolt sticking out from the top will be the same as the bottom. For a normal sized wheel (15"-17"), every 1/4" is approximatly 1 degree of camber. If the bottom of the wheel sticks out 1/2" further than the top, you have -2* of camber.
I don't know if I explained it very well, but you will get the idea when I post a picture (sorry, the tool is at my apparment at school, so you have to wait till I go back on monday). It really is simple, but I don't always explain things well.
I bought the cheapest 18" long level I could find. It ended up being a house brand for $8.00 I think. The most important aspect to the level is the ability to measure how verticle a wall is. Basically, you put adjustable length bolts in the level so you can tell how many inches in the top lip of the wheel is as compared to the bottom lip of the wheel.
You need to drill 2 holes in the level to put 3-4" long 1/4" bolts in. Locate the holes so they line up to the lips on the wheel, as if you were measuring how verticle the wheel is. The holes will go through the thicker of the sides. Then, put in your 3-4" long 1/4" bolts with washers and nuts.
The idea is that you bolts will be adjustable so you can make the level indicate verticle. At 0* camber, the length of the bolt sticking out from the top will be the same as the bottom. For a normal sized wheel (15"-17"), every 1/4" is approximatly 1 degree of camber. If the bottom of the wheel sticks out 1/2" further than the top, you have -2* of camber.
I don't know if I explained it very well, but you will get the idea when I post a picture (sorry, the tool is at my apparment at school, so you have to wait till I go back on monday). It really is simple, but I don't always explain things well.
Well for now, i adjusted the camber asfar as i can i believe. i moved the strut as far center (towards the motor) as possible. It still seems to have the top of the wheel out more than the bottom...but it drives pretty much straight so im not sure whats going on here.
Perhaps a set of CC plates would solve this? Also , deffinatly post the pictures...remember your talking to me
Perhaps a set of CC plates would solve this? Also , deffinatly post the pictures...remember your talking to me
Everything you want to know and more about making this tool and setting your alignment:
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?p=4943966#post4943966
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?p=4943966#post4943966
TurboFlush
Founding Member
those are the only wheels i like better than my 17x9 chrome cobra r's....wanna trade j/j
I Love Em' especially with your calipers. 17's? what size tires ya got?
iv'e got 275/40/17's on the rear of mine and they rub if i just take a corner at 20+mph or someone in tha pass. seat. (inner fender well and outer fender) and the fronts (245/45/17's) rub the fenders at about half turn. I have the stock ride heigth and probably all stock suspension all around. the tires are not cheap and are being chewed away more and more each week. the offset is correct, so where is my problem. i would love to lower my car, but it seems impossible at this point. are my rear shocks shot maybe? why do the fronts rub at only half turn, do i need some wheel spacers? please help me, i dont have 500 or 600 bucks for new tires, and i am afraid to drive it too much.
I Love Em' especially with your calipers. 17's? what size tires ya got?
iv'e got 275/40/17's on the rear of mine and they rub if i just take a corner at 20+mph or someone in tha pass. seat. (inner fender well and outer fender) and the fronts (245/45/17's) rub the fenders at about half turn. I have the stock ride heigth and probably all stock suspension all around. the tires are not cheap and are being chewed away more and more each week. the offset is correct, so where is my problem. i would love to lower my car, but it seems impossible at this point. are my rear shocks shot maybe? why do the fronts rub at only half turn, do i need some wheel spacers? please help me, i dont have 500 or 600 bucks for new tires, and i am afraid to drive it too much.
TurboFlush
Founding Member
wheel spacers wont help you if they are rubing on the fenders. I recomend getting the fender lips folded over.
ive got 255's all the way around (well just on the front for now, waiting on some axles). They dont rub up front unless they are all full turn (even the 225's on stock turbines rubbed a little at full turn)...not much you can do about except steering limiters. As far as rubbing on the fenders...im not sure, mines "stock ride hieght" and i dont have that problem.
