Im looking into one of these kits for my daily driver GT but it seems that where the filter sits in the fenderwell it's prone to suck up some water in the rain?? Anybody run this intake set-up with no problems in the rain???
JLT cold air...Will it suck up water with the filter placement??
- Thread starter juiced_94gt
- Start date
You sure the heat from the pipe isn't killing my HP, Should i just fab up a heat shield for the filter to keep it from sucking too much hot air??
IIRC ... John (WhiteDevil) has some data on that which was obtained
while on a Dyno.
Might wannna search it out
Grady
rj95svt
Member
IIRC ... John (WhiteDevil) has some data on that which was obtained
while on a Dyno.
Might wannna search it out
Grady
yeah is data compared a C&L trueflow and a AFM N/A powerpipe IIRC. He actually made more power with the C&L Trueflow inlet pipe
rj95svt
Member
No dude, it has nothing to do with your lower than expected numbers. I've had that c&l pipe for like 6 years no and its not hurting me along with an under the hood 80mm pro m.
Yeah, WhiteDevil compared a 3.5" pipe and a 4" pipe on a nice 347 and noticed negligable differences
Maybe it was him, Grady, and killercanary that got some underhood data on how hot of air a couple different pipes they had were sucking in. The fenderwell kits were pulling in cooler air of course. I was thinking there temps ranged from 100-130*, depending on pipe configuration (engine bay or fenderwell).
You do not know if something is hurting you until you replace it.
Grn - I'm honestly not trying to argue, but did you not say yourself that a 3" pipe would cause a horsepower loss over a 4" pipe several weeks back? I think we have already answered that question...with WhiteDevils dyno thread.
Maybe it was him, Grady, and killercanary that got some underhood data on how hot of air a couple different pipes they had were sucking in. The fenderwell kits were pulling in cooler air of course. I was thinking there temps ranged from 100-130*, depending on pipe configuration (engine bay or fenderwell). You do not know if something is hurting you until you replace it.
Grn - I'm honestly not trying to argue, but did you not say yourself that a 3" pipe would cause a horsepower loss over a 4" pipe several weeks back? I think we have already answered that question...with WhiteDevils dyno thread.
A car like mine would most likely see a gain replacing the c&l tube with the SAME tube in 4". IMO juiced's combo is too mild too really see it. Im not talking about an apples to oranges comparison with a fenderwell pp vs a shorter underhood c&l pipe. Maybe one day i'll invest in a 4" home depot pipe to replace my c&l tube. But right now thats the least of my worries, the car is all finally fixed now its time to drive it
EDIT: when I stated above "its not hurting me", I meant in terms of heat, not size.
I think we are talking about size and temp 
As for size
I wanna say the airflow between John's and Mike's car is gonna be different
John is running smaller heads than Mike
so
A larger pipe MIGHT be of more benefit to Mike than John
As for temps
No getting around it ... a metal pipe is gonna be more hot to the touch
To touch it you are gonna be at idle
but
On the dyno where the peak values are taken ... you're at WOT :Word:
Two totally different conditions!!!
You can see the act temp climb at idle during a stop light
and
Soon as you get moving the temp falls
Also if you sit by the road at idle for a while and make a make a WOT
pass ... the temps fall until you get off the skinny pedal
I'm trying to show the temp of the outside and inside is not the same
btw ... my above info is for N A only
Grady
As for size
I wanna say the airflow between John's and Mike's car is gonna be different
John is running smaller heads than Mike
so
A larger pipe MIGHT be of more benefit to Mike than John
As for temps
No getting around it ... a metal pipe is gonna be more hot to the touch
To touch it you are gonna be at idle
but
On the dyno where the peak values are taken ... you're at WOT :Word:
Two totally different conditions!!!
You can see the act temp climb at idle during a stop light
and
Soon as you get moving the temp falls
Also if you sit by the road at idle for a while and make a make a WOT
pass ... the temps fall until you get off the skinny pedal
I'm trying to show the temp of the outside and inside is not the same
btw ... my above info is for N A only
Grady
I think we are talking about size and temp
As for size
I wanna say the airflow between John's and Mike's car is gonna be different
John is running smaller heads than Mike
so
A larger pipe MIGHT be of more benefit to Mike than John
Airflow Chart for 170cc Street and Track Heat Heads:
Lift Value (in.) - Intake Flow - Exhaust Flow
Inches - CFM - CFM
0.100 - 063 - 053
0.200 - 141 - 107
0.300 - 205 - 144
0.400 - 233 - 171
0.500 - 251 - 187
0.600 - 251 - 193
Tests conducted at 28 in. of water (pressure)
Intake valve size 2.020 in./exhaust valve size 1.600 in.
Airflow Chart for Performer 1.9 #60379 Heads:
Lift Value (in.) - Intake Flow - Exhaust Flow
Inches - CFM - CFM
0.100 - 072 - 057
0.200 - 131 - 105
0.300 - 185 - 131
0.400 - 214 - 156
0.500 - 223 - 168
0.600 - 226 - 175
Tests conducted at 28 in. of water (pressure)
Intake valve size 1.090 in./exhaust valve size 1.600 in.
Yep, his heads flow a bit better
Although, I believe a 3.5" pipe would be plenty on either combination
Sorry, Grady, I got bored and added extra info that is taking it off-topic
Grn92LX - How do you know it isn't hurting you? I bet getting a bit cooler air can help anyone...
Well David
I was just kinda thinking out loud
I remembered John saying how he reused the heads from his 302 combo and talked about how they were smaller than he would have liked.
Now about the act temps
I would like to point out something at this time I've never considered about
my home made cai
It is made from pvc pipe and Fernco rubber couplers.
I bored a hole a good bit smaller in one of those couplers and screwed my act sensor in for a good tight fit.
My motivation for that method was simply ... it was an easy fix
Consider peeps usual method of using a bung on a metal pipe.
Seems to me
the metal pipe would transfer more heat than the rubber coupler
Never the less ...
its the air temp of the core of airflow the motor uses to make power :Word:
Grady
I was just kinda thinking out loud
I remembered John saying how he reused the heads from his 302 combo and talked about how they were smaller than he would have liked.
Now about the act temps
I would like to point out something at this time I've never considered about
my home made cai
It is made from pvc pipe and Fernco rubber couplers.
I bored a hole a good bit smaller in one of those couplers and screwed my act sensor in for a good tight fit.
My motivation for that method was simply ... it was an easy fix
Consider peeps usual method of using a bung on a metal pipe.
Seems to me
the metal pipe would transfer more heat than the rubber coupler
Never the less ...
its the air temp of the core of airflow the motor uses to make power :Word:
Grady
BlackPearl955.0
New Member
I run it and I have no problems with water, except the mustang is under carcover while it is raining.
I do not have a problem while driving in though either. Your pipe is nice though, I bought the jlt cause I was running some ebay crap before, and it is nice and looks pretty cool under the hood too.(COLOR CHOICES) I would just stick with what you got it I is working well after a heat shield.
I do not have a problem while driving in though either. Your pipe is nice though, I bought the jlt cause I was running some ebay crap before, and it is nice and looks pretty cool under the hood too.(COLOR CHOICES) I would just stick with what you got it I is working well after a heat shield.
Stanger007
Founding Member
My airfilter/MAF is right on the bottom of the bumper with the powerpipe and filter that AFM sent me. I've driven through a good many rain storms and have not had a problem - I would say that driving through standing water would probably ruin my day.
It happened to a friend of mine's car here in town and messed up his engine. His girlfriend was driving his car, hit standing water and car developed a instant knock. We rebuilt that motor. So with that in mind, drive careful with a filter that low.
Wes
It happened to a friend of mine's car here in town and messed up his engine. His girlfriend was driving his car, hit standing water and car developed a instant knock. We rebuilt that motor. So with that in mind, drive careful with a filter that low.
Wes
This is a very timely question for me.
To speak to your question from my current xperience, I noticed a big seat-of-the pants improvement when I installed the Anderson power pipe. Expensive, but effective.
And I do not have a chip, because like you, I chose moderate mods, the gt-40Y heads & GT40 intake(both ported) and a "Baby Crower" cam. I have good power & NO driveability or idle problems.
But when I got the Anderson Power Pipe, I already had a H/C/I upgrade, and at the same time I added the 4" power pipe, I installed 24lb injectors & a Lightning meter in place of the stock Mass Air, & 24lb injectors in place of the stock 19s, so my impression isn't limited to the Powerpipe alone.
I also was troubled by the very low placement of the air filter right behind the parking light---and more so, since my stupid neighbor locked up his absolutely stock VW Jetta 2 weeks ago by driving thru a really deep puddle.
And my car HAS TO BE first & foremost a daily driver.
What I did is to take a piece of cardboard and trace the opening between the underside of the fender and the bumper cover so as to close up the bottom of the filter. I'm using this template to fabricate an aluminum piece made up to wall off the opening.
Now this will not be a watertight seal, but it should minimize leakage from going thru standing water. A previous post mention of a K&N Drycharger Net is new to me & I'd like to learn more about it.
I'll have the aluminum seal installed in another week or so.
To speak to your question from my current xperience, I noticed a big seat-of-the pants improvement when I installed the Anderson power pipe. Expensive, but effective.
And I do not have a chip, because like you, I chose moderate mods, the gt-40Y heads & GT40 intake(both ported) and a "Baby Crower" cam. I have good power & NO driveability or idle problems.
But when I got the Anderson Power Pipe, I already had a H/C/I upgrade, and at the same time I added the 4" power pipe, I installed 24lb injectors & a Lightning meter in place of the stock Mass Air, & 24lb injectors in place of the stock 19s, so my impression isn't limited to the Powerpipe alone.
I also was troubled by the very low placement of the air filter right behind the parking light---and more so, since my stupid neighbor locked up his absolutely stock VW Jetta 2 weeks ago by driving thru a really deep puddle.
And my car HAS TO BE first & foremost a daily driver.
What I did is to take a piece of cardboard and trace the opening between the underside of the fender and the bumper cover so as to close up the bottom of the filter. I'm using this template to fabricate an aluminum piece made up to wall off the opening.
Now this will not be a watertight seal, but it should minimize leakage from going thru standing water. A previous post mention of a K&N Drycharger Net is new to me & I'd like to learn more about it.
I'll have the aluminum seal installed in another week or so.
The only time my fenderwell CAI sucked up air was when I was in like 8 inches of water.
I daily drive mine in the rain pretty often too. I wouldnt worry about it.
I daily drive mine in the rain pretty often too. I wouldnt worry about it.
milewsky80
Member
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