Just bought a 2010 GT, what do I need to know?

astronut1885

Founding Member
Jan 31, 2002
1,899
4
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Assonet, MA
Hey guys. Just bought my 5th Mustang, a 2010 GT premium. 5spd, leather, HIDs, Shaker 1000, 18" 5 spokes, Sync, security package. $32450 with $2500 down, $1000 mfgr rebate, 0% APR finance 66 months, 7750 for my 04 GT in trade which was ready to blow it's motor up and had a $12500 lien against it from when I bought it. I am happy with the car, and now I need to get educated to this new chassis, motor, etc.

-First off, is there any free power to be had? Like is there an air silencer I can remove or something like that?

-Next, can I use my SCT X-Cal II with this car? It says any OBD-II car, but then it says through 2008 (I think that's when it was made). Can I get a tune put on it and load it to the '10?

-How soon should I switch to synthetic oil? Is there a break in period where dino oil should be used or can I go throw some royal purple at it tomorrow?

-What shifter do you recommend? I had a tri-ax from Steeda in the 04 and loved it, so I am leaning that way again

-Do I need to get subframes to ensure chassis integrity? On the Fox/SN95 platforms those were a great idea from day 1 and highly encouraged once you start adding power. I want to keep this thing as straight and firm as possible for the future.

-Any other info or experiences you can share with this car and power train.

Thanks guys!
 
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Congrats

I'd be careful about changing airbox while under warranty.

My own suggestion would be to wait about 1000 miles before switching to synthetic oil.

Shifter? Only one--MGW.

I've read several times S197s don't really need sub frame connectors.

I'd discuss the SCT with Brenspeed. They should be able to fill you in here.
 
Goldenpony gave you some good advice!

MGW is "THE" best you can get IMO.

I put about 1800 miles on the odometer before switching to full synthetic. Not based on any science...just my personal superstitions.

I question the real gains you can get from a CAI on the 2010s. Yes, they say the Ford CAI 'isn't a true CAI' then they try to sell you their CAI which has an open box. My brain says the air ported into a sealed box via ram-air from the grill (Ford) is going to be colder but I'm not trying to sell you an intake either. If you look at the facts most of the HP gains on the 2010s are due to the custom tune and not the CAI. Again, this is just my opinion and not based on any big facts. I installed an AFE dry filter (more surface area and better flow than the stock paper) in the stock box on my 2010, and I like it. No big difference but maybe a little better throttle response. I'll add a custom tune later with no plans for an aftermarket CAI.

Check out the "Advancetrack Sport Mode"...kinda cool because it will let you spin the tires without having the stability control completely off.

Another way to gain performance (but not free) is to run premium fuel. The 2010's have adaptive tuning and you'll get more torque and a little horsepower by using higher octane.

Be sure to get a microSD card (w/ USB adapter) for your glovebox. You can store thousands of tunes on one and navigate it with your voice commands. The turn by turn directions also work great if you have a bluetooth phone with a data plan.
 
I have the 10 with the following mods to date. CAI, BBK 62MM T/B, U/D pullies, BBK L/T, BBK F/F Cat X-pipe, Flowmaster single chamber, Ford Hot rod cams. This netted me 316 RWHP. with this said. The Roush 435 kit is in the mail. We shall see what that brings us too. My advice to you is to enjoy the car. Ford has the inductiona and exhaust pretty well dialed in. You will not see a lot of gain with a CAI/Exhaust. The Tuner will be your best initial investment. as for the shifter...MGW is the way to go, and from what I hear there is a Gen 2 sfifter out now that they made even cleaner....

Have fun....and know that this is a very addictive hoby.....
 
Congrats!!! I just got mine a few weeks ago. Mine has Roush stage 2 suspension, Roush shifter, Roush intake. Leather, Shaker(I don't know which one-I know it has the microsoft sync), trakpak 19" wheels.

Mine had the upgrades installed when I bought it, so i couldn't tell you what difference it made. It was also the only 2010 i've ever driven.
My mechanic, who is a stang freak and has an 800+ hp stang, drove it and said the shifter would be tough for 1/4 mile racing, but meant more for road course driving. Lemme tell you--the shifter is awesome if you're the type that likes back roads and some good fun casual driving.

I just had regular magnaflows welded in, and though they sounded good just werent loud enough. I just went back today and had the magnaPACKS welded in. They sound excellent. Sound is insane and just loud enough. I will probably be going after an x-pipe next, or maybe just have hi flow cats welded in.

here's the stance.....lets see yours!!!
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Have fun....and know that this is a very addictive hoby.....

Haha, nothing I don't know, this is my 5th stang and none have stayed stock for more than a day. I had a 350 RWHP H/C/I'd 87 with every mod but a supercharger (5 lug swap, big brakes, etc...), a bolt-on flooded 04, and two older bolt on 87s before this one. I plan on getting Magnapacks for sound, not for power, because the one thing I miss from the 04 was my offroad prochamber and magnapack side exhaust and the sound it made. The tune will be getting ordered from Brenspeed in the coming weeks, and I already switched to 91 octane fuel (best you can get in Cali, they have 93 back home in MA, and I'm going home soon :D ). I was leaning toward the Steeda Tri-Ax because I loved the last one in my 04, but everyone seems to agree on the MGW, so I guess when the money becomes available I will grab one of those. Lastly, I plan on dropping a K+N filter in the OEM air box for now, I don't want to give them any excuses to void my warranty. Once I hit the first oil change, I'm going to either Mobil 1 or Royal Purple synthetic and staying that way. BTW- what's the oil capacity on these cars? My 04 took 6 quarts. Once those mods are done, next year's tax returns will likely go to some nice sticky tires and staggered rims, I loved the BFG KDWIIs on my 04, it was like driving on a rail.
 
Haha, nothing I don't know, this is my 5th stang and none have stayed stock for more than a day. I had a 350 RWHP H/C/I'd 87 with every mod but a supercharger (5 lug swap, big brakes, etc...), a bolt-on flooded 04, and two older bolt on 87s before this one. I plan on getting Magnapacks for sound, not for power, because the one thing I miss from the 04 was my offroad prochamber and magnapack side exhaust and the sound it made. The tune will be getting ordered from Brenspeed in the coming weeks, and I already switched to 91 octane fuel (best you can get in Cali, they have 93 back home in MA, and I'm going home soon :D ). I was leaning toward the Steeda Tri-Ax because I loved the last one in my 04, but everyone seems to agree on the MGW, so I guess when the money becomes available I will grab one of those. Lastly, I plan on dropping a K+N filter in the OEM air box for now, I don't want to give them any excuses to void my warranty. Once I hit the first oil change, I'm going to either Mobil 1 or Royal Purple synthetic and staying that way. BTW- what's the oil capacity on these cars? My 04 took 6 quarts. Once those mods are done, next year's
tax returns will likely go to some nice sticky tires and staggered rims, I loved the BFG KDWIIs on my 04, it was like driving on a rail.


Good choice on the MGW shifter. The very best!

You'll get little to nothing from a drop in K&N filter. and they don't filter as well.
 
I'm not expecting a world of difference from the K+N, but it's better than the stock paper POS Ford puts in there. And I've never heard that a K+N filters less than a stock crapper. Not sure where you got that from. Cloth/oil element filters are included in every CAI on the market, so there's gotta be something to gain over a cheaper paper filter.
 
I'm not expecting a world of difference from the K+N, but it's better than the stock paper POS Ford puts in there. And I've never heard that a K+N filters less than a stock crapper. Not sure where you got that from. Cloth/oil element filters are included in every CAI on the market, so there's gotta be something to gain over a cheaper paper filter.

Actually, paper air filters aren't that bad.

AMSOIL Ea Air Filter media removes 5 times more dust than traditional cellulose (paper) filters and 50 times more dust than wet gauze (K&N).

If you want to read some interesting test data on air filters, go to Amsoil's web sight and go to the filters part. Amsoil's nanofiber Ea filters pretty much skunk the other filters. And, you don't have to futz around with spraying oil on them. Keeps your MAF sensor healthy.
 
Honestly, I never had a problem with an oil/gauze filter and the MAF, but those numbers are intriguing. I want whatever flows best without losing filtration. Of course, you have to take those numbers with a grain of salt as they come from the same guy who makes the filter they rate as 'best.' I also like the reusable features of the K+N, I cleaned mine with every oil change on the '04 because I'm neurotic like that. Also, I note that you are using a K+N setup on your car.
 
The Amsoil filter is recommended to be cleaned (simply tapped to remove loose dirt. I also CAREFULLY use a gentle air hose to further remove dirt. Amsoil recommends replacing it at 100,000 miles.
Yes, I use a K&N Aircharger CAI, but I substituted an Amsoil filter for the K&N.
Aren't you taking to heart the claims of K&N?
Actually, I used K&N filters for many years. I have read other tests that claimed K&Ns didn't filter all that well. They do flow very well, but I want clean air entering my engine. K&N filters got their popularity from being used a lot on racing engines, but racing engines are torn down and rebuilt fairly often too.
As I said, I used K&N filters for many years, even on my motorcycles. I switched to Amsoil filters when I believe I found something better.
I'm really not trying to get into a pissing contest with you. I am just giving my opinions and why I have them.
One last thing. If you go the K&N route, read your instructions carefully. You'll find they don't recommend cleaning and re-oiling but every 50,000 to 100,000 miles. This type of air filter actually filters better as it gets dirtier and still flows well. Best of luck Bro. Enjoy your new ride. :nice:
 
Woah, man. Not trying to start a pissing contest, just trying to learn and gather as much info on the new car as I can from the guys who have already been there. I'm not saying K+N is the messiah of filters, all I know is what I've been told and that they have a solid reputation. I've never heard of these Amsoil filters, and I plan on doing my homework on them before I plunk down any cash on any filter, especially since my filter is 600 miles new and has plenty of life in it. I'm just asking the questions and making the comments that come to mind when somebody presents information, hoping for a response that answers my questions. I know every company out there finds some way to spin their product as the best, and even the 'independent' tests require a big shovel to sort through the bull****, but the guys on this forum tend to be the most straight forward resource for real world use and results. All I want to do is pool all that experience, draw the best conclusion possible, and try to not waste my money.
 
CAI / TUNE

FYI- July 2010 5.0 Mustangs & Super Fords pg 152 has CAI test of Steeda's ProFlow CAI which requires a tune (they used a canned SCT X3) for the 2010.

1-4 HP gain up until about 5k RPM, then from 5-6.2K RPM it was 11-13 RWHP gain. It picks up a little more torque on the bottom 3-8 lbs, and 9-12 over 5k

It doesn't say what octane they are running. If 10's are like the 05-09 that are tuned on 87 I'd assume you can better these #'s a bit with a higher octane tune plus AM/Bama/Brenspeed/etc. tune vs. preprogrammed SCT.
 
From what I'm hearing between the two forums, the tune is responsible for most of that. Since I already have an Xcal II and Brenspeed said it will work with my '10, I am going to wait on the CAI. Honestly, I've had 3 Mass Air 5.0s, and the 04 with the 4.6. All had CAIs, and none gained anything more than something nice looking under the hood, slightly better throttle response, and a little more noise. I never had any tangible gains from the CAI system, and I've tried straight shots, fender well mounted, plastic, metal, etc. Honestly, it's an appearance thing IMO.

Don't get me wrong, when the time and money allow, and once the warranty is gone, I will be adding that Steeda piece. It looks awesome, and for me looks is part of the overall experience of having these cars.
 
FWIW, you can get slightly better throttle response and a little more noise than stock by using the stock CAI airbox and installing an aftermarket filter.

I remember my 1990 GT...you gained 5 HP by throwing in a K&N and removing the air silencer. You gained nothing more by going to a CAI with conical filter.

I think on the 2010's the stock box is pretty good unless you're going for heavy mods where you need much more airflow. I would recommend looking at different filters though.

I know you've mentioned K&Ns astronut1885. I've used K&N and Amsoil...all the different high flow filters are OK. You might look into the AFE filters though. My current one is a dry AFE filter (so I don't have to screw with re-oiling) but they also offer a more traditional oiled K&N style mesh filter too. THe advantage to the AFE is it is actually a different design from the stock or K&N that is like a basket that sits inside the stock box and offers more surface area and supposedly much higher flow. It's kind of like putting a conical filter inside the ram air box. I believe it's probably better than the K&N or Amsoil if you plan on keeping the stock factory CAI.

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FYI- July 2010 5.0 Mustangs & Super Fords pg 152 has CAI test of Steeda's ProFlow CAI which requires a tune (they used a canned SCT X3) for the 2010.

1-4 HP gain up until about 5k RPM, then from 5-6.2K RPM it was 11-13 RWHP gain. It picks up a little more torque on the bottom 3-8 lbs, and 9-12 over 5k

I believe they offer a horsepower increase...but...if you look at the HP/Torque curves for the CAIs that DON'T require a tune they add like 3 or 4 HP...once you add the tune you get into the 10 HP range. I believe it has more to do with the tune and higher flowing conical filter than the actual CAI...just based on my non-scientific hunch.
 
Like I said, I have the dry AFE and it offers maybe a little better throttle response and slightly more whoosh at WOT. It really isn't worth the $$ from a performance perspective, but I think when combined with a tune it will be great...and it's reusable so it will save $$ in the long run.
 
Well, I am a fan of the wet gauze filters as of right now, and I really like the increase in surface area on that basket style cone over a flat panel like K+N. I think I am going to give it a shot and let people know how I make out. That way, down the line when I buy a true CAI system, I can compare the two with some dyno results along with the stock filter. I have a shop back home that loves to tinker and compare/contrast, and since I'm one of the few guys who will have a '10 and will be willing to play with it a little, I bet he'll use me as a guinea pig.