Just got MM Subframes welded in yesterday & WOW...

spree said:
where'd you have them installed and how much did you pay for the install if you don't mind me asking? I'm still looking for a good shop that won't charge me too much...
X-M-P. Really cool guys. They are located in Aliso Viejo. Chicane in Torrance is good also but I decided to go with X-M-P. Just 45 mins. from L.A. I paid 250 parts & labor. They did a perfect job. Clean ass job. They took their time and made sure everything was done right. A good shop is a shop that takes their time & does everything right the fist time. Highly recommened.
 
spree said:
where'd you have them installed and how much did you pay for the install if you don't mind me asking? I'm still looking for a good shop that won't charge me too much...

Where ever you have them installed, just make sure that when the sub-frames are installed. The car is lifted by the wheels and not lift by the chassis.
 
I think the ones that don't feel any difference in their car is because it could've been installed incorrectly. The people that did mines work on Mustangs all day and everyday. This job is simple to them. I wouldn't risk taking my car anywhere else to have anything done. Lots of guys here take their subs to a muffler shop looking to save a few bucks and end up unhappy because it wasn't done right. Maaaybe because he's a muffler guy. Me, I always take my car to a Mustang tuner. I'm not saying that other mechanics are not good, but me, I prefer a Mustang specialist.

Remember, you get what you pay for.
 
00BlackBeautyGT said:
I think the ones that don't feel any difference in their car is because it could've been installed incorrectly. The people that did mines work on Mustangs all day and everyday. This job is simple to them. I wouldn't risk taking my car anywhere else to have anything done. Lots of guys here take their subs to a muffler shop looking to save a few bucks and end up unhappy because it wasn't done right. Maaaybe because he's a muffler guy. Me, I always take my car to a Mustang tuner. I'm not saying that other mechanics are not good, but me, I prefer a Mustang specialist.

Remember, you get what you pay for.

I took mine to a well known mustang shop that works on over 3,000 mustangs a year.
 
bird said:
Where ever you have them installed, just make sure that when the sub-frames are installed. The car is lifted by the wheels and not lift by the chassis.
Yup. Very true. They used a wheel lift on mines. I was standing right next to them as they worked. My car was sitting on all four when they did mine. They really know what they are doing.
 
I have the Kenny Brown full extreme matrix brace kit (jacking rails, full length subs and the matrix brace) it made a world of difference and it cost me 800 including installation.
 
If you don't already have a strut tower brace I'd get one. I had some flexing from the front but once I got my Steeda STB installed it went away. Made the front end more response especially in the turns. This is a nice inexpensive mod that makes a big difference on a vert. I installed my MM subframes and got the same results as you. A day and night difference for the better. The other recommendation I'd have for you is to install upper and lower control arms. Since our verts are heavier in the back end I think that the control arms make a bigger difference then hardtops. They aren't that expensive but they will make a nice improvement!
 
Next on my list will be some really good suspension upgrades.

This is what I have in mind -

H&R Supersport (Replacing the Eibach Prokit - Nice ride, but not low enough.)
Bilstein Shocks & Struts
MM Caster Camber Plates
Replace all rubber bushings for Urethane

Tell what do you think? Or what are your recommendations?
 
Ken01GTvert said:
If you don't already have a strut tower brace I'd get one. I had some flexing from the front but once I got my Steeda STB installed it went away. Made the front end more response especially in the turns. This is a nice inexpensive mod that makes a big difference on a vert. I installed my MM subframes and got the same results as you. A day and night difference for the better. The other recommendation I'd have for you is to install upper and lower control arms. Since our verts are heavier in the back end I think that the control arms make a bigger difference then hardtops. They aren't that expensive but they will make a nice improvement!
I've heard stories about STB not doing $hit but add extra weight. I don't know for sure. Never had any experience. I've been looking into those as well. If I get one, it'll definately be MM (Chrome). Even though it does nothing (if that's true), I'd think it'll still look cool under the hood.
 
00BlackBeautyGT said:
Next on my list will be some really good suspension upgrades.

This is what I have in mind -

H&R Supersport (Replacing the Eibach Prokit - Nice ride, but not low enough.)
Bilstein Shocks & Struts
MM Caster Camber Plates
Replace all rubber bushings for Urethane

Tell what do you think? Or what are your recommendations?

H&R SS will definitely drop you lower. May need to consider bumpsteer kit. One of the reasons I chose the Pro-kit is that they were tuned for Vert suspension. I expect that our springs are heavier in back to take into acct the extra couple of hundred pounds. I'm sure that there are folks that are very happy with their H&R SSs on a vert. It would be good to hear from them too.

Bilsteins are great. They are firm but have great dampening in them and are able to isolate to hard bumps to transferring up through your spine. If you have the extra $$$ for them they are great. If you plan to go between autox and the track then you'll want the adjustability of the Tokico's Illumina's. I don't do both, mine is just a mild corner carver setup.

MM C/C is what I have and they are the best!

I went with the urethane bushings in my UCAs, LCAs, spring isolators, and steering rack bushings. They provide a more solid feel while still making for a reasonably comfortable ride.

You're definitely on the right track. When you're all done you're going to be VERY happy with your results. It will be like having a new car (or at least the way the car should have been built in the first place).
 
I got the Kenny Brown subs installed, and I did notice a difference. After reading about all the options and the opinions of some handling gurus, I am starting to think I should have went with something more radical than just the Kenny Brown full lengths.

-Jason
 
Ken01GTvert said:
H&R SS will definitely drop you lower. May need to consider bumpsteer kit. One of the reasons I chose the Pro-kit is that they were tuned for Vert suspension. I expect that our springs are heavier in back to take into acct the extra couple of hundred pounds. I'm sure that there are folks that are very happy with their H&R SSs on a vert. It would be good to hear from them too.

Bilsteins are great. They are firm but have great dampening in them and are able to isolate to hard bumps to transferring up through your spine. If you have the extra $$$ for them they are great. If you plan to go between autox and the track then you'll want the adjustability of the Tokico's Illumina's. I don't do both, mine is just a mild corner carver setup.

MM C/C is what I have and they are the best!

I went with the urethane bushings in my UCAs, LCAs, spring isolators, and steering rack bushings. They provide a more solid feel while still making for a reasonably comfortable ride.

You're definitely on the right track. When you're all done you're going to be VERY happy with your results. It will be like having a new car (or at least the way the car should have been built in the first place).
Thanks for the reply. That is some good information you just gave. That's why I love coming to Stangnet for anything Mustang related. You guys are the BEST!!!
 
wjfawb0 said:
I got the Kenny Brown subs installed, and I did notice a difference. After reading about all the options and the opinions of some handling gurus, I am starting to think I should have went with something more radical than just the Kenny Brown full lengths.

-Jason

Full length subs are a great place to start getting things more solid. All these other things can be pretty much added whenever you have an extra $250 a pop for the next part. Over time they will add up and make a big difference on a vert. Not as big a difference on a hardtop.
 
wjfawb0 said:
I got the Kenny Brown subs installed, and I did notice a difference. After reading about all the options and the opinions of some handling gurus, I am starting to think I should have went with something more radical than just the Kenny Brown full lengths.

-Jason
I believe Kenny Brown only make their subs in regular length, not full length. But any sub is better than no subs. And any sub is better than those cheap subs that Ford puts on the verts. What were they thinking. They should replace their chasis engineer with me and I'll make sure I put MM subs on every car that comes off the line. Ha Ha Ha
 
00BlackBeautyGT said:
X-M-P. Really cool guys. They are located in Aliso Viejo. Chicane in Torrance is good also but I decided to go with X-M-P. Just 45 mins. from L.A. I paid 250 parts & labor. They did a perfect job. Clean ass job. They took their time and made sure everything was done right. A good shop is a shop that takes their time & does everything right the fist time. Highly recommened.

thanks for the info...do you have a website or phone # for them?
 
The KB subs I have go from the front subframe all the way to the rear subframe. That is the definition of full-length, right? Pretty sure they are.

Also, I have done the IRS bushing and differential bushing install on my 03 Cobra, and it also improved handling and feel. Greatly reduced my wheel hop too. I have grown accustom to the IRS squat of my Cobra on launch. The difference in everyday ride quality between my GT and the IRS Cobra is enough to keep me driving IRS on the street all the time. No doubt the solid axle is best for getting down the strip in a mustang right now.

-Jason