Just got MM Subframes welded in yesterday & WOW...

[Ken01GTvert]

I've heard stories about STB not doing $hit but add extra weight. I don't know for sure. Never had any experience. I've been looking into those as well. If I get one, it'll definately be MM (Chrome). Even though it does nothing (if that's true), I'd think it'll still look cool under the hood.

No doubt there are some crap STBs out there and people that don't install them right. I put on my chrome-moly Steeda STB and tighted the mother out of the bolts and added a litte extra support behind the firewall and it made a big difference for me. I had cowl shake before I got the STB so it definitely helped to firm it up. If you don't have cowl shake now it would still make sense to get a STB to prevent things from loosing up in the future (if you plan to keep the car very long) The MM chrome ones look great but you may have clearance issues with intakes such as mine (C&L MAF&Inlet pipe). If you have a more flexible intake or stock setup you'll probably be ok.

 

[00BlackBeautyGT]

No doubt there are some crap STBs out there and people that don't install them right. I put on my chrome-moly Steeda STB and tighted the mother out of the bolts and added a litte extra support behind the firewall and it made a big difference for me. I had cowl shake before I got the STB so it definitely helped to firm it up. If you don't have cowl shake now it would still make sense to get a STB to prevent things from loosing up in the future (if you plan to keep the car very long) The MM chrome ones look great but you may have clearance issues with intakes such as mine (C&L MAF&Inlet pipe). If you have a more flexible intake or stock setup you'll probably be ok.

I have a BBK Cold air intake on mines. Will the MM STB fit?

 

[Ken01GTvert]

I have a BBK Cold air intake on mines. Will the MM STB fit?

You'll probably be fine with your BBK or a few reasons (1) BBK CAI components don't appear to be as thick or bulky like the C&L products (2) it appears that the bend of the BBK from the TB seems to be more direct then the C&L which will give you extra room (3) since your installing your STB after you've got everything else in place you'll be able to move the STB over a little to adjust for your components. You might want to ask MM before you buy it just to make sure.

 

[bird]

Next on my list will be some really good suspension upgrades.

This is what I have in mind -

H&R Supersport (Replacing the Eibach Prokit - Nice ride, but not low enough.)
Bilstein Shocks & Struts
MM Caster Camber Plates
Replace all rubber bushings for Urethane

Tell what do you think? Or what are your recommendations?

What do you want to do with the car? Carving corners or straight line performance?

Rob

 

[2000GT]

man I got the same ones.......Mine did nothing except make the door close tighter. Waste of money to me but glad your happy.

Thanks for being honest. On a COUPE, I highly doubt anyone would physically "feel" the difference of SFC's. Sure they might stiffen things up a bit, but the coupes are not anywhere near as flexible as the verts.

I appreciate honest feedback. Most people are afraid to admit they spent money on their car and didn't notice any difference.

SFC's are probably a good insurance mod., but that's about it on coupe.

 

[bird]

Thanks for being honest. On a COUPE, I highly doubt anyone would physically "feel" the difference of SFC's. Sure they might stiffen things up a bit, but the coupes are not anywhere near as flexible as the verts.

I appreciate honest feedback. Most people are afraid to admit they spent money on their car and didn't notice any difference.

SFC's are probably a good insurance mod., but that's about it on coupe.

I'm not flaming you

But that’s not true. Either (A) They where installed really bad (B) The suspension is in poor shape that you can't feel the differance (C)You’re just not pushing the car hard enough to feel it then. I felt it from the moment they where installed on my 98 Cobra(Very first mod). Steering reacted quicker and the car felt like it was a hair faster which could be true. Instead of the power being robbed by the chassis from flexing, with the extra stiffness more power is now transferred into the rear axle.


Rob

 

[4.6modular]

I would recommend and type of chassis stiffening mods especially if you are planning on keeping the car. Whether you are leaning more towards drag, autocross, or just a daily driver corner carver chassis mods are insurance, and make your car more stable and predictable. I would highly recommend a STB. I noticed more of a difference from it then the Subs.

 

[BullittStangV8]

my bullitt came with crappy ford subframes, and it still feels sturdier and stiffer then my friends stock suspension GT. i know some of that has to do with the springs/struts combo i have. im planning on ripping mine out and going with full length MMs. Should help in the turns and the 1/4 mile.
Mike

 

[00BlackBeautyGT]

What do you want to do with the car? Carving corners or straight line performance?

Rob

I'm really looking for a good upgrade just for a reliable daily driver. Every now & then I like to drive hard on the streets. I've never been to the track but would like to someday. When I do, I would like to be ready to push this bad boy.

 

[tarch]

dunno if anyone recommended them, but Steeda Front Strut Bar helps as well as a rear strut bar(given you're willing to waste some trunk space)

 

[luther1228]

congrats on the install i am still kicking around which ones to get

 

[Frazier]

I know that the answer is yes... but is it better (in most opinions) to install subframe connectors "after" you lower your stang? I woul say that it's best to install them just after the new springs have settled. Not ready to lower just yet but am thinking about the MRT racing suspension package with some cc-plates and the some subframes afterwards.

 

[NasaGT]

I know that the answer is yes... but is it better (in most opinions) to install subframe connectors "after" you lower your stang? I woul say that it's best to install them just after the new springs have settled. Not ready to lower just yet but am thinking about the MRT racing suspension package with some cc-plates and the some subframes afterwards.

I think its best to install subframes as soon as you get the car. Why wait and let the body flex, become weaker, and develope rattles? I don't see any benefit to waiting until after the car is lowered.

 

[shaddixstang]

MM subframes here, love them. Did mine right before having it lowered.

 

[Frazier]

What if you do subs before lowering and once you lower the car sits differetly at each corner than it did with the oem springs?

 

[Gatorman1369]

Anyone know of a shop in North Florida that does good welds. The MM full lenghs will be in my "cart" as soon as I find out who can do it right the 1st time.

Thanks!

 

[00BlackBeautyGT]

Anyone know of a shop in North Florida that does good welds. The MM full lenghs will be in my "cart" as soon as I find out who can do it right the 1st time.

Thanks!

You are on the right track. Where ever you go, make sure that the person is experienced with subframe connectors. Cause once it's in, you're stuck. Because it welded. You can remove them back out, but that's a lot of cutting. That can damage and weaken your car even more. Make sure you ask a lot of questions. I know I did. I have had too many bad experiences with shops. Some take pride in their work & some don't give a $hit. Sit there & watch how they work. That's the only way you'll know if they did it right or not. And before you leave the shop, get underneath the car and inspect. Just a few tips for ya. Good luck.

 

[BMan5150]

Can't say I noticed too much difference in daily driving, except for slightly better sterring response and a little tighter ride. They must work, though, as you can really tell how they hold the car together when you are jacking it up! If I'm jacking up one tire, the rear tire on the same side practically goes up in the air even with the front just barely off the ground. Not so before the SFCs.

However, I truly believe my launches improved from both a quality and constency standpoint at the track. Could also be I'm getting better, but I honestly do feel with less slop it's easier to launch the car now.

The cost was minimal ($90), and installation was practically free (friend did it)so getting some SFCs was a no-brainer for me.

 

[85GTlover]

What else can I do to firm my chassis even more? It's a 2000 GT Vert. I know verts are nothing compared to a coupe but what other options do I have.

There is the strut tower brace, the lower k member brace, subframes and a rear shock tower brace and of course the cage which looks cool too. Better upper and lower control arms improve the launch and likely ride too.

 

[85GTlover]

What if you do subs before lowering and once you lower the car sits differetly at each corner than it did with the oem springs?

That should have no effect on anything whatsoever the subframes is just like adding to the frame....duh so like I said, it makes no difference and will effect nothing as long as your car is sitting correctly...level, when the parts are welded in.