Just got new GT40 crate engine

From what I have seen, unfortunatly none of them make the 340HP they claim, even with the supporting parts.

A Cobra, Ebrock Performer of TFS intake would be a good choice, along with 24# inj, 65-70mm TB and a 76-80mm MAF, 1-5/8" headers and a legal 2.5" exhaust.
 
I agree, your not going to see near 340RWHP but it will make some good power. I really don't see how they get away with that crap but anyways... it's not a bad deal, you get a new factory engine beefed up at a good price.
 
I think the HP advertised on the crate motor was flywheel? In either case, I would think it would have a tough time making that without the heads being touched. Will still be a really nice performing engine.
 
In the FMS catalog they dyno test them with a 780 cfm Holley, headers, and probably no smog, ac, or ps pump hooked up either. I was thinking of that long block, but choose to go with the one from CCM. It was cheaper and is rated at 320 flywheel HP. Plus CCM warranties there engines where FMS does not.
 
91cobraR said:
In the FMS catalog they dyno test them with a 780 cfm Holley, headers, and probably no smog, ac, or ps pump hooked up either. I was thinking of that long block, but choose to go with the one from CCM. It was cheaper and is rated at 320 flywheel HP. Plus CCM warranties there engines where FMS does not.

In other words the FMS is 340 gross hp, not net. If you are going to use your own heads, intake, timing cover, cam, and oil pan, a good option would be a stock 5.0 shortblock from FMS for a decent $1500. Only drawback is hyper pistons, but for the majority of people out there without crazy blowers or N2O they are fine.
 
It's a crank rating, not a rear wheel rating. In my catalog they're clear about the hp rating coming with the GT40 intake, bigger throttle body and maf and headers - I don't think they're mixing and matching on advertised power levels between carb and efi.

What I'd be most concerned about is your stock AOD. Crane makes the same cam as the E - Powermax 2040. And they specifically recommend against using it with an automatic, and they specify at least 3.55 gears. If you want that combo to work better with the automatic you're gonna want gear (I'd say 3.73 or 4.10) and a different stall speed on the converter - up around 2500-2800. It's gonna be really soft below 3000 rpm. Also, be sure you free up the exhaust side as much as possible - long tubes, etc. The cam will perform best on the bottom if you help the exhaust side as your heads are intake-biased.
 
Michael Yount said:
It's a crank rating, not a rear wheel rating. In my catalog they're clear about the hp rating coming with the GT40 intake, bigger throttle body and maf and headers - I don't think they're mixing and matching on advertised power levels between carb and efi.

What I'd be most concerned about is your stock AOD. Crane makes the same cam as the E - Powermax 2040. And they specifically recommend against using it with an automatic, and they specify at least 3.55 gears. If you want that combo to work better with the automatic you're gonna want gear (I'd say 3.73 or 4.10) and a different stall speed on the converter - up around 2500-2800. It's gonna be really soft below 3000 rpm. Also, be sure you free up the exhaust side as much as possible - long tubes, etc. The cam will perform best on the bottom if you help the exhaust side as your heads are intake-biased.

Michael, he is in CA so long tubes would be out of the question I beleive, but I agree a 3:73 or 4:10 is needed, for a converter check out www.edgeracingconverters.com Andre has a good rep with the AOD guys and can get you what you want at a good price. Don't forget to add a good trans cooler.
 
i have one and i like it, it isin't the best but i can't complain. Much better than stock. See sig. IT has a nice lopey cam and it pulls hard from 2500 on to 5500. OK dyno numbers i would have liked better but its a start. Looking back I may have got the GT40 intake or edel or trick flow but live and learn. I might pull the heads and get some work done to them. You will definitly enjoy the engine. GO with 3.55 or 3.73. We just started the emission testing :nonono: in pa just visual where i live but am good till november. Didn't get to track yet was hoping to go this weekend but rain for fri and sat. I now will have to wait until june because of my work schedule. I am hoping for 13's.
 
Michael Yount said:
It's a crank rating, not a rear wheel rating. In my catalog they're clear about the hp rating coming with the GT40 intake, bigger throttle body and maf and headers - I don't think they're mixing and matching on advertised power levels between carb and efi.

What I'd be most concerned about is your stock AOD. Crane makes the same cam as the E - Powermax 2040. And they specifically recommend against using it with an automatic, and they specify at least 3.55 gears. If you want that combo to work better with the automatic you're gonna want gear (I'd say 3.73 or 4.10) and a different stall speed on the converter - up around 2500-2800. It's gonna be really soft below 3000 rpm. Also, be sure you free up the exhaust side as much as possible - long tubes, etc. The cam will perform best on the bottom if you help the exhaust side as your heads are intake-biased.

Exactly, It's 340BHP not 340HP!.. They're very clear about how they attained those #'s.

Rick91GT said:
From what I have seen, unfortunatly none of them make the 340HP they claim, even with the supporting parts.
:bang: :rolleyes:

Anyway's man, it's a good motor..definitely a good deal for the $$ take Michael's advice & get some gears..4.10's if you're gonna keep the AOD, & definitely get a higher stall or you wont really feel the power this motor can put out :nice:
 
kevsstang said:
i have one and i like it, it isin't the best but i can't complain. Much better than stock. See sig. IT has a nice lopey cam and it pulls hard from 2500 on to 5500. OK dyno numbers i would have liked better but its a start. Looking back I may have got the GT40 intake or edel or trick flow but live and learn. I might pull the heads and get some work done to them. You will definitly enjoy the engine. GO with 3.55 or 3.73. We just started the emission testing :nonono: in pa just visual where i live but am good till november. Didn't get to track yet was hoping to go this weekend but rain for fri and sat. I now will have to wait until june because of my work schedule. I am hoping for 13's.

You say you have the usual exhaust?? what does that mean? Your intake is probably hurting you too..If you let the motor breathe right you should be at 300rwhp or really close. What trans do you have? Is your car a vert? 13's?? With this motor as long as you allow it to work at it's full potential you should definitely see 12's. Get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, also bump your timing up to 18*. You could've ran 13's on the stock motor..don't sell yourself short, you paid some decent cash for the motor, before you go porting your heads allow the motor to work like it's supposed to.

Edit: I see you have 30lb/hr injectors..that's probably hurting you too, I tried those when I put my motor in & it ran like crap! All you need is 24's..do some changes, take it back to the dyno & I'll guarantee you see way better #'s.
 
Yo Qwk88LX, I have the 340hp FRPP crate but with the E-cam in my 1995gt. i have a 5-speed with the usual bolt ons listed below.

my question to you is how did you get it tuned right? i have problems with this motor while idling. it just stalls out some times, other times its purring nicely, then sometimes its a bit bouncy- especially with the a/c on. do you run pulleys- i do and i strongly believe that they aid in my erratic idling. I heard of computer issues with the cam, possibly only specific to 94-95's, but what tuning have you done to get that thing running straight?
also what gears would you suggest? I will be purchasing a set in 2 months. i am assuming 3:73's?

on a side note, i went 160+mph racing an M3 on the highway with this motor while just about revving out in 4th gear. pretty crazy seeing that 5th gear is so long....


Fawcett
1995 Black Gts 5-speed [email protected] on street tiresw/3:08's
FRPP 340hp 302 w/ gt40x. e-cam, trickflow track heat intake w/ 3/8spacer, FRPP24lbs, FRPP 65mm tb, Pro-M80, March Pulleys, Mallory Digital Ignition, FRPP Wires, Steeda Tri-Ax, Cobra R's, 13in slotted 4pistion caliper Brembo's front, slotted brembos w/brembo pads,etc etc etc
Plus I Roll Wingless
 
Sorry Qwk88LX, two more questions...
1.Was 18 degree timing the recommended timing with the motors instructions? or did you bump yours up to what you throught was fitting?
2. What fuel pressure do you run? I bought an aeromotive fpr but have only been tuning it by the seat of my pants, i think its way too rich, please help!


Fawcett
 
The crate motor is a great buy. Who cares how much power it makes. With exhaust, gears, an intake/mass air/TB, you have all you need to take a fully dressed mustang well into the 12's. Tuning and set up are what you need to worry about. I've had a couple of crate motors and they have both performed well at the track and great on the street (as daily drivers).
 
fawcett said:
Yo Qwk88LX, I have the 340hp FRPP crate but with the E-cam in my 1995gt. i have a 5-speed with the usual bolt ons listed below.

my question to you is how did you get it tuned right? i have problems with this motor while idling. it just stalls out some times, other times its purring nicely, then sometimes its a bit bouncy- especially with the a/c on. do you run pulleys- i do and i strongly believe that they aid in my erratic idling. I heard of computer issues with the cam, possibly only specific to 94-95's, but what tuning have you done to get that thing running straight?
also what gears would you suggest? I will be purchasing a set in 2 months. i am assuming 3:73's?

on a side note, i went 160+mph racing an M3 on the highway with this motor while just about revving out in 4th gear. pretty crazy seeing that 5th gear is so long....


Fawcett
1995 Black Gts 5-speed [email protected] on street tiresw/3:08's
FRPP 340hp 302 w/ gt40x. e-cam, trickflow track heat intake w/ 3/8spacer, FRPP24lbs, FRPP 65mm tb, Pro-M80, March Pulleys, Mallory Digital Ignition, FRPP Wires, Steeda Tri-Ax, Cobra R's, 13in slotted 4pistion caliper Brembo's front, slotted brembos w/brembo pads,etc etc etc
Plus I Roll Wingless

I use a u/d pulley too, but I don't have an a/c or power steering..I didn't really have to do much to tune it except like I mentioned earlier I had 30lb/hr injectors on at first & experienced poor driveability until I switched to 24's.. :lol: be careful haulin azz on the highway..State troopers wont hesitate to nail a stang with hefty tickets :p

fawcett said:
Sorry Qwk88LX, two more questions...
1.Was 18 degree timing the recommended timing with the motors instructions? or did you bump yours up to what you throught was fitting?
2. What fuel pressure do you run? I bought an aeromotive fpr but have only been tuning it by the seat of my pants, i think its way too rich, please help!

I run 93 octane in my car & 18* is what worked best for me..I use a BBK AFPR & I run 42psi.

Edit: 3.73's should be perfect for you with the 5-speed.
 
Thank you all for your input this will be very hlep full, I'll probably have the engine in the car in about a week and a half. One question though I got a 2000 rpm stall because my dad will probably be taking it out alot and he doesn't need anything to radical in this car, he has a porshe 928 for that, I just want to know if that will be fine, I know that it's not Ideal for the best performance, but as long as it works. Also I have an AOD so I want new gears how are 3.55's or 3.73's on gas compared to stock. And how good are bassani products. ALso what Intake would be best has anyone heard anything more on that BBK intake manifold