Just got new GT40 crate engine
- Thread starter 89 droptop
- Start date
sn9550
Founding Member
I agree with the others in that 4.10's would be optimum. I might change my 3.73's out for 4.10's. I had Bassani exhaust on my 99. Thier stuff is top notch.
Qwk88LXQwk88LX said:
I have Mac unequals 1 5/8", 2.5" H-pipe and flows, an adjustable fuel pressure reg., 5 speed trans, no smog pump. When i was at the dyno the technician said he didn't want to go any higher with the timing. I believe the fuel pressure is at 42psi. I got the 30lbs in anticipation of installing a SC. If i swap intakes which one would u recommend.
Once the engine goes in it will have the stock intake on it, I know this will choke the engine but I don't mind takeing my time adding on the rest. However what should I do I have stock gears on an AOD. first add gears say 3.55's or 3.73's, 4.10 are to much gear for what I use the car for, or brand new intake and throttle body, I'm gussing the two will cost about the same because I would need to get both installed and I'm sue it costs more to but in a set o gears. What will be more noticible, remeber I just got a new gt40 crate engine.
This is a hyper piston motor correct? What kind of power do these pistons rate at on a NA motor? I know they're not power adder friendly, but can you run high compression with them? Also, if the bore is a typical 302, couldnt you just open it up and throw in some production forged pistons and be better off?
BTW i think i'd go with the intake first. I'm usually a "get a gear before anything" guy, but with this new motor, i'd want to get everything "motor" related out of the way first. I think you're going to feel the gears more though, but once your motor is where you want it with the intake, you'll feel that gear even more than you would with the stock intake.
BTW i think i'd go with the intake first. I'm usually a "get a gear before anything" guy, but with this new motor, i'd want to get everything "motor" related out of the way first. I think you're going to feel the gears more though, but once your motor is where you want it with the intake, you'll feel that gear even more than you would with the stock intake.
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
89droptop - I don't think you read the first part of the thread -- with an aod and that engine/cam you're gonna want more gear and a different stall in the automatic. That engine is going to be VERY soft on bottom end torque, and with the stock gear and AOD, it won't be much fun to drive on the street at all. You need to reconsider - the cam recommendations include gear and different stall converter. Actually Crane recommends that you not use the cam with an automatic at all.
I know that I will not get the most out of it just yet but I need to comprimise for the time being until I get enough to buy more parts, and I have the E303 cam which is the one recomended for an auto. Trust me I know How sluggish the stock gears are. And after having the last engine take a dump on me 
. I'm kind of hesitent to be hallin ass anyway. I'm just trying to get as much info as possible so I appreciate all you help, which brings me to another question, would the lower gears be easier on the engine since it doesn't have to work so hard to get up?
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
Here are Crane's recommendations straight from their site (Crane PowerMax 2040 IS the E303 - Crane designed it for Ford Racing). Note that it says MUST USE 5 SPEED AND 3.55 OR NUMERICALLY HIGHER GEARS:
GOOD MID-RANGE AND STRONG TOP-END POWER, REQUIRES MODIFIED MASS AIRFLOW, AFTERMARKET INTAKE, PERF. CYLINDER HEADS AND HEADERS, MUST USE 5-SPD AND 3.55 OR NUMERICALLY HIGHER REAR GEARS. REQUIRES CRANE SPRINGS AND RETAINERS.
If you put it in with the 2.73 and the stock auto because of the lack of torque at low rpm with that engine (more power higher in the rev range = less torque lower in the rev range) it won't be too pleasant to drive. We're just tryin' to help you do it right. The crate engine you're putting in makes MUCH LESS torque low in the rpm range than the stock engine you're taking out.
GOOD MID-RANGE AND STRONG TOP-END POWER, REQUIRES MODIFIED MASS AIRFLOW, AFTERMARKET INTAKE, PERF. CYLINDER HEADS AND HEADERS, MUST USE 5-SPD AND 3.55 OR NUMERICALLY HIGHER REAR GEARS. REQUIRES CRANE SPRINGS AND RETAINERS.
If you put it in with the 2.73 and the stock auto because of the lack of torque at low rpm with that engine (more power higher in the rev range = less torque lower in the rev range) it won't be too pleasant to drive. We're just tryin' to help you do it right. The crate engine you're putting in makes MUCH LESS torque low in the rpm range than the stock engine you're taking out.
90mustangGT said:
The numbers Ford puts out for it's crate engine are for Flywheel Horsepower not Rear Wheel Horsepower. I just had a friend of mine put this same engine in his 95 Mustang and with the ported factory manifold from his old engine the car put 291 to the rear wheels which is just about right for a 340hp flywheel engine.
Installation went without a hitch and took 2 days...
From my experience with the FRPP engines I have experienced the following:
I ordered the motor and had a local shop Modern Mustang do the install. Went from bone stock with a rebuilt AOD to crate engine with Precision Industries convertor, 373s, aluminum d/s, 24 lb injectors, GT40 lower with Comp Cams Plastic upper, 65mm tb and 73mm MAF, HD trans cooler. I , however, chose the 285HP iron headed block as this was several years ago and the GT40X heads were probably still on the drawing board. I was not impressed with the power of this motor although it would have run circles around the stock configuration I came from. Changed the heads to World Product Windsor JRs iron with 194/160s and the thing came to life. With drag radials and AOD the car ran 13.50s at 102-104 easily. This did not seem that great to me for all the mods I had done to the car. over 5K in mods only netted me a mid 13sec car, go figure. there was no dyno facility in Memphis at that time that I knew of so HP numbers, who knows. I imagine around 250-260 at the wheels. All I know is that I went from getting embarrassed by LT1s to beating them and it felt great. Unfortunately I sold the car before the LS1 models were out so I cannot compare it to the newer breed of GMs. I imagine they would have outran me but not by much. Bottom line is that it is OK for the money BUT DSS sells longblocks for not much more cash that will seriously overpower the FRPP engines. My 2 cents, sorry to ramble
I ordered the motor and had a local shop Modern Mustang do the install. Went from bone stock with a rebuilt AOD to crate engine with Precision Industries convertor, 373s, aluminum d/s, 24 lb injectors, GT40 lower with Comp Cams Plastic upper, 65mm tb and 73mm MAF, HD trans cooler. I , however, chose the 285HP iron headed block as this was several years ago and the GT40X heads were probably still on the drawing board. I was not impressed with the power of this motor although it would have run circles around the stock configuration I came from. Changed the heads to World Product Windsor JRs iron with 194/160s and the thing came to life. With drag radials and AOD the car ran 13.50s at 102-104 easily. This did not seem that great to me for all the mods I had done to the car. over 5K in mods only netted me a mid 13sec car, go figure. there was no dyno facility in Memphis at that time that I knew of so HP numbers, who knows. I imagine around 250-260 at the wheels. All I know is that I went from getting embarrassed by LT1s to beating them and it felt great. Unfortunately I sold the car before the LS1 models were out so I cannot compare it to the newer breed of GMs. I imagine they would have outran me but not by much. Bottom line is that it is OK for the money BUT DSS sells longblocks for not much more cash that will seriously overpower the FRPP engines. My 2 cents, sorry to ramble
Just kinda adding information here as i had a gt40 crate..
My combo was, gt40 crate engine with B cam + gt40x heads, 1.72 rockers, shorty headers, o/r x pipe, catback, pulleys, typhoon intake, stock maf, cobra comp, 24# injectors, 3.90 gears, pvc cold air intake, and nittos. This is a 5 spd car.
I went 12.7 @ 107 on a hott day with a 1.70x 60ft. Went back later in the season and went [email protected] with skinnies, 60ft was a 2.1xx. I know that the car had 12.50's in it, but didnt get enough seat time to prove this. My car weighed in at 3250 w/ chrome cobra r's all around w/ me in it. I dont know how much it weighed with the skinnies.
I was very pleased with the engine. I bought it off a friend for a real bargain. He had it in a fox body with a carb and went 12.6@110. I never thought i would get close to his best time, the engine really surprised me. Alot of my friends(fbody friends) would say it would never go low 13's, but that was obviously not the case.
Anyways good luck with the new engine.
My combo was, gt40 crate engine with B cam + gt40x heads, 1.72 rockers, shorty headers, o/r x pipe, catback, pulleys, typhoon intake, stock maf, cobra comp, 24# injectors, 3.90 gears, pvc cold air intake, and nittos. This is a 5 spd car.
I went 12.7 @ 107 on a hott day with a 1.70x 60ft. Went back later in the season and went [email protected] with skinnies, 60ft was a 2.1xx. I know that the car had 12.50's in it, but didnt get enough seat time to prove this. My car weighed in at 3250 w/ chrome cobra r's all around w/ me in it. I dont know how much it weighed with the skinnies.
I was very pleased with the engine. I bought it off a friend for a real bargain. He had it in a fox body with a carb and went 12.6@110. I never thought i would get close to his best time, the engine really surprised me. Alot of my friends(fbody friends) would say it would never go low 13's, but that was obviously not the case.
Anyways good luck with the new engine.
Qwk88LX
Member
kevsstang said:
I dont know why he wouldn't try going higher than 14* timing, as long as you run premium fuel you're pretty safe going up to about 19* as long as you have no detonation. I would recommend the Trick Flow street heat intake as it makes good power in the lower rpm's so it'll produce some good torque where you need it. I had good results with it when I had a stock motor & I still have it now. You could also go with the gt-40 intake if you have the cash. If you're serious about getting a blower soon, I think your best bet would be to have someone port out your Cobra intake for you. I believe there's someone here that does a good job for a reasonable price, just ask around. That way you could save your money & get a different intake when you get the blower. Good luck
Qwk88LX
Member
89 droptop said:
Hypereutectic..here's the specs http://www.fordracingparts.com/crateengine/302smallblock.asp
