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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

Just installed Steeda Upper and Lower Control Arms, (tips and tools)

  • Thread starter Thread starter EDGE Motorsport
  • Start date Start date Jun 27, 2005

EDGE Motorsport

Member
Sep 24, 2004
561
2
19
Saleen S281, London, UK
Jun 27, 2005
#1
  • Jun 27, 2005
  • #1
Just thought I'd give everyone a heads up...

both pieces are very high quality and very very well made...

the lower control arms are extreemly easy to install. Absolutely no problems with the install at all, all you need is a 18mm spanner and 18mm socket (and ratchet). The oly part thats a bit tricky to get to it the front bolt on the control arm as it is on the inside of a piece of box section, so you may need to remove the mufflers (if they get in the way), i just used an extension on the ratchet and a wobble socket.

now.... the upper control arms...

WHAT A PITA !!!!!!!

well, only 2 parts of the install were actually tricky;

1. Drilling to old bushing out of the diff. That took me about 2 hours per side and i went through 4 drill bits and countless dremel pieces. You have to basically drill the bushing out of its hole, and as the bushing is rubber it just melts and goes all crappy.. it takes a long time to get EVERYTHING out... the shells were spotless before i put the new bushes in, as they should have been

2. Lining the holes up on the UCA and the new bushing in the diff. You have to lift the diff first, get a screw driver in the back of the hole to line it up, then lower the diff and put the bolt in to line up the front then tyou have to jack up the diff little by little to get the bolt through the back...what a g!t.... took me ages on the first side then about 20 minutes on the second. Steeda supply new, longer bolts for this hole as the arms are thicker... these nuts and bolts use 19mm spanners though, so sort those before sliding under the car again

the sway bar mounts to the outside edges of the new control arms, that had me scratching my head for a good 10 minutes while under the car..... bear in mind it was 1:30am by this point

All in all a fairly straight forward install with all the parts included that you'd need, including loads on little tubes of lube

Tools wise, i used;

18mm socket
19mm socket
12" extension bar
1/2" Ratchet
1/2" Wobble extension
18mm spanner
19mm spanner
2 trolley jacks, big 3t ton jack to lift the car and axel stand it, little 2 ton with small head to jiggle the diff in to place
2 axel stands
2 wheel blocks
A crap load of drills and bits to get the bushing drilled out..

also went though 12 cans of coke and 3 chicken burgers... oh, and a banana milkshake... these items are ESENTIAL for a successful instal.

Just got to get back out on the street and feel the difference now..

oh and a major thanks to the guys at StangPro for helping me get these bits shipped over here successfully... thanks guys...

EDGE
 

SonicBlueBabe

New Member
Sep 20, 2003
289
0
0
Boca Raton, FL
Jun 27, 2005
#2
  • Jun 27, 2005
  • #2
EDGE Motorsport said:
Just thought I'd give everyone a heads up...

both pieces are very high quality and very very well made...

the lower control arms are extreemly easy to install. Absolutely no problems with the install at all, all you need is a 18mm spanner and 18mm socket (and ratchet). The oly part thats a bit tricky to get to it the front bolt on the control arm as it is on the inside of a piece of box section, so you may need to remove the mufflers (if they get in the way), i just used an extension on the ratchet and a wobble socket.

now.... the upper control arms...

WHAT A PITA !!!!!!!

well, only 2 parts of the install were actually tricky;

1. Drilling to old bushing out of the diff. That took me about 2 hours per side and i went through 4 drill bits and countless dremel pieces. You have to basically drill the bushing out of its hole, and as the bushing is rubber it just melts and goes all crappy.. it takes a long time to get EVERYTHING out... the shells were spotless before i put the new bushes in, as they should have been

2. Lining the holes up on the UCA and the new bushing in the diff. You have to lift the diff first, get a screw driver in the back of the hole to line it up, then lower the diff and put the bolt in to line up the front then tyou have to jack up the diff little by little to get the bolt through the back...what a g!t.... took me ages on the first side then about 20 minutes on the second. Steeda supply new, longer bolts for this hole as the arms are thicker... these nuts and bolts use 19mm spanners though, so sort those before sliding under the car again

the sway bar mounts to the outside edges of the new control arms, that had me scratching my head for a good 10 minutes while under the car..... bear in mind it was 1:30am by this point

All in all a fairly straight forward install with all the parts included that you'd need, including loads on little tubes of lube

Tools wise, i used;

18mm socket
19mm socket
12" extension bar
1/2" Ratchet
1/2" Wobble extension
18mm spanner
19mm spanner
2 trolley jacks, big 3t ton jack to lift the car and axel stand it, little 2 ton with small head to jiggle the diff in to place
2 axel stands
2 wheel blocks
A crap load of drills and bits to get the bushing drilled out..

also went though 12 cans of coke and 3 chicken burgers... oh, and a banana milkshake... these items are ESENTIAL for a successful instal.

Just got to get back out on the street and feel the difference now..

oh and a major thanks to the guys at StangPro for helping me get these bits shipped over here successfully... thanks guys...

EDGE
Click to expand...

I installed just the upper control arms on saturday and that was more than enough for me! lol
 

DropTopPony

Noob Slayer
Founding Member
Aug 13, 2002
2,570
3
48
south jersey
Jun 27, 2005
#3
  • Jun 27, 2005
  • #3
i just did this last weekend, the bushings sucked...after i broke the first bit i swithched to a grinding tool i had with metal spokes to grind it out. Also one of the pre-drilled holes wasn't large enough to accomadate the large bolt.....and i was wondering why it wouldn't go in. After a half hour i unbolted it and was looking at it an was like then i just drilled it out and popped it in. I also installed the steeda superlite springs and tokico struts and shocks and the 03/04 cobra front control arms....the car is completely different now. I've been taking on/off ramps at 20-30mph faster than before and the car is just flat through turns....I love it!
 

AmBo

Active Member
Feb 3, 2004
1,027
1
36
New Jersey
Jun 27, 2005
#4
  • Jun 27, 2005
  • #4
Don't the UCA make the ride rough and cause noise in the car?

Also, why didn't you guys buy the MM bushings tool to make your lives easier?

http://www.stangsuspension.com/store/comersus_viewitem.asp?idproduct=477
 

DropTopPony

Noob Slayer
Founding Member
Aug 13, 2002
2,570
3
48
south jersey
Jun 27, 2005
#5
  • Jun 27, 2005
  • #5
AmBo said:
Don't the UCA make the ride rough and cause noise in the car?

Also, why didn't you guys buy the MM bushings tool to make your lives easier?

http://www.stangsuspension.com/store/comersus_viewitem.asp?idproduct=477
Click to expand...


that tool looks like an install tool not a removal tool.
 

mity2

I like Pro3 and all I got was this crappy CT.
Jul 24, 2003
2,872
3
48
StateCollege PA
Jun 27, 2005
#6
  • Jun 27, 2005
  • #6
can u use propan tourch and burn out the bushing on UCA?
 

SonicBlueBabe

New Member
Sep 20, 2003
289
0
0
Boca Raton, FL
Jun 27, 2005
#7
  • Jun 27, 2005
  • #7
mity2 said:
can u use propan tourch and burn out the bushing on UCA?
Click to expand...

That's a good question. I dont see why not
 

StevenGT-02

Founding Member
Mar 5, 2002
322
0
0
Long Island, NY
Jun 27, 2005
#8
  • Jun 27, 2005
  • #8
I drilled mine out a good amount then burned them out and scraped what was left over...not a fun job at all... i bought the MM bushing tool but was a waste of money...sold it on ebay
 

KronicRacer

Member
Jun 23, 2004
502
1
18
puttering around Ft Lauderdale, FL
Jun 27, 2005
#9
  • Jun 27, 2005
  • #9
great thread!
 
R

rjstaaf

Founding Member
May 31, 2002
1,310
2
39
Somewhere
Jun 27, 2005
#10
  • Jun 27, 2005
  • #10
Here are the instructions for the MM Bushing removal/installation tool. Haven't used it myself but, many others have said it is invaluable. I would imagine if you had problems with it that possibly you weren't using it correctly as many people seem to have nothing but praises for how easy it makes the job.

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/instructions/MMT-1.pdf
 

StevenGT-02

Founding Member
Mar 5, 2002
322
0
0
Long Island, NY
Jun 27, 2005
#11
  • Jun 27, 2005
  • #11
What the tool does is remove the bushing with the shell.. You still have to drill out and remove the stock rubber bushing and reuse the shell with the new bushings..Then use the tool to reinsert the shell..
 
R

rjstaaf

Founding Member
May 31, 2002
1,310
2
39
Somewhere
Jun 27, 2005
#12
  • Jun 27, 2005
  • #12
StevenGT-02 said:
What the tool does is remove the bushing with the shell.. You still have to drill out and remove the stock rubber bushing and reuse the shell with the new bushings..Then use the tool to reinsert the shell..
Click to expand...

Did you look at the .pdf for the MM instructions I just posted? This tool is designed to remove EVERYTHING. It takes multiple steps but, with this tool there is absolutely no need to drill out the rubber bushing.

Here is the link I posted, take a look at step 10. You will see there everything is removed and you are then ready to procede to the installation of the new busing.

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/instructions/MMT-1.pdf
 

StevenGT-02

Founding Member
Mar 5, 2002
322
0
0
Long Island, NY
Jun 27, 2005
#13
  • Jun 27, 2005
  • #13
IT dosent remove the "rubber" bushing from its shell trust me...i BOUGHT the tool and it is not designed to remove the rubber out of the shell..It removes the shell thats all...

Have you used this tool? or are you famillar how the shell and rubber bushing are attached? If so you should understand what i am talking about.
 
R

rjstaaf

Founding Member
May 31, 2002
1,310
2
39
Somewhere
Jun 27, 2005
#14
  • Jun 27, 2005
  • #14
StevenGT-02 said:
IT dosent remove the "rubber" bushing from its shell trust me...i BOUGHT the tool and it is not designed to remove the rubber out of the shell..It removes the shell thats all...

Have you used this tool? or are you famillar how the shell and rubber bushing are attached? If so you should understand what i am talking about.
Click to expand...

Maybe we are just miscommunicating here. I was under the impression you were stating that it doesn't remove the rubber bushing from the differential housing but, now it sounds like you are just saying it doesn't remove the rubber from the metal shell that encases it and that I will agree with you on. The tool is worth that alone as I would much rather drill out the rubber from the shell on a workbench than try and do it under the car.
 

01MachGT

New Member
Mar 20, 2004
104
0
0
Marshalltown, IA
Jun 27, 2005
#15
  • Jun 27, 2005
  • #15
I installed my UPR tubular UCA's in under an hour
 

DropTopPony

Noob Slayer
Founding Member
Aug 13, 2002
2,570
3
48
south jersey
Jun 27, 2005
#16
  • Jun 27, 2005
  • #16
mity2 said:
can u use propan tourch and burn out the bushing on UCA?
Click to expand...


i almost did this! but just kept grinding...after the first one was done i was a pro...lol
 

EDGE Motorsport

Member
Sep 24, 2004
561
2
19
Saleen S281, London, UK
Jun 28, 2005
#17
  • Jun 28, 2005
  • #17
KronicRacer said:
great thread!
Click to expand...

i was hoping the lining up the hole bits might help someone out.. i know it would have saved me a few hours

EDGE
 
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