K-member install, how much better with engine out?

90mustangGT

I felt sorry for girls because
Founding Member
Jan 15, 2002
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Dallas, GA
Since I already have coil-overs, and the motor is out, I think maby it's a good time to install a Tubular K-member. I work in a shop and have replaced front-frames on cars before and the job isn't that difficult but other things always get in the way, and it's diffuicult to adjust properly. I belive it would be much easier w/o the engine in the way. That way I can get it all adjusted and the way I want it. People who have done this feel free to chime in.
 
Let me detail this...

I usually am agains this but I am probally taking out a loan soon. I am thinking the extra in interest would be worth the time and trouble and having it "NOW". I have good credit, know where to get a loan for a low rate, and I am building credit.
 
Helped a buddy put one in his 90 LX a few weeks ago without the motor in and it was a breeze. Never did one with motor in so I really can't compare. But without the motor, there are all kind of working room...


And thats how I plan on doing it on the 84 coupe project, I have..
 
When I did mine I did it with the engine in the car and it was pretty easy.
The only extra step I had to take was to leave a jack under the front of the tranny which held the engine up while I was changing the K-Member.

Took about 6 hours from start to finish taking my time.

Then I took it to the alignment shop.
 
What are some restrictions, modifications etc. with a new k-member. I fooled around with the thought of a new k-member but am too scared that nothing will work and headaches will be a-plenty. BTW, I've hear bad things about D&D but dont go by me, never done one, never delt with them, just heard it from some thread on here. I'll probably use QA1.

Anthony
 
Restrictions and modifications?

Not too sure what you mean by restrictions but as far as modifications go it really depends on which kit you go with.

If you go with coil overs then you will need to grind the tops of some brands of struts to get the coil overs to slide on.

Also with coil overs, you will have to relocate where your brake line attaches to your frame. It will hit when you turn the wheels. Also you will loose some inner clearence with coil overs as well. Thus you will not be able to run as much backspacing on your front rims.

Also be sure that if you get a K-member, be sure get one with the factory
geometry unless you specifically want to change it so you don't run into clearence issues.

I have heard of hit or miss with D&D from people on this site but a friend of mine gave them a try and it was a BIG MISS. :notnice: I do not recommend them from personal experience.

I used a UPR kit but don't really recommend them either due to bad business practices and VERY POOR customer service. I got it for free so I tried it and it fit fine. :shrug:

If I had to buy I would look for some one else.

Good Luck.