- Mar 3, 2010
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My centri ppl would you guys say this is good deal? I wanted a self contained but this is tempting.
Progress Thread K member is this a good deal?
- Thread starter Reddevil91
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That's a great deal. I pieced together my V3 kit over almost a year and I probably have that much into it. This is much easier, especially if you can beat him down a few hundred $$. I would go for it, but I would make sure you can get paperwork for the rebuild stuff just as peace of mind. If it visually looks good, and no weird noises or shaft play, you are good to go. Get your fueling right, bolt this on and go!
- Mar 3, 2010
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Would I be dumb to pass on this deal close to me. I know it’s not MM but I already have rear upper and lower UPR, I’ve wanted to go with a new K member. Wants 1200 obo I thought if I can grab this for 1000. He isn’t sure what the coil overs are for sure thinks they are are either 12-225 or 12-250
Not a bad deal if you can get it for $1000.
Even if you had to flip the struts/springs and get the ones you wanted.
Even if you had to flip the struts/springs and get the ones you wanted.
- Mar 3, 2010
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He came back with 1100 but it’s a 2 hr drive for me so I think I can get him at 1k. I’m not sure what spring rate is good, don’t really know much about coil overs. I would like to get a little lower stance and off these Jamex springs I’ve had on the car since 99!!
I have this K-member, at least as it was sold 15 years ago, in my 91 turbo. I don't like the lack of grease fittings. Mine makes noise. Consider tapping for the fittings before installation.
Here's my take on it, if it's all exactly what you want (other than maybe the spring rate), then you should make a play for it.
It's a lot of money and a lot of work that you do NOT want to do twice, just to save some money on the front end.
K members on facebook marketplace are a dime a dozen.
Don't be banking on selling parts from the kit, because you will take a hit, just like he's going to if he sells it to you.
Personally i'd want a 1/3 off the new price to be worth my trouble. And you really need to know the spring rates and if that's what you want, because it could cost you another 100 bucks to change them, shrinking the deal.
The higher number is stiffer, the lower the softer.
Easiest way to look at is is 150lb is more of a drag race number and 300lb is more of a road coarse number (the numbers get more extreme, just not really for street cars).
I run 275lb.
Edit: I wrote the paragraph above earlier and didn't post it. Now that he has offered $1100 that would be a firm no for me.
Let him find some other guy (which he won't) that's willing to let him off the hook with only a 20% hit.
4 hour drive to save $300? Certainly not enough motivation for me.
When he comes back at you agreeing to the $1000, tell him you spent 100 bucks and now you only have 900.
The $1000 was more than fair (as i said i think too generous), he should have taken it.
It's a lot of money and a lot of work that you do NOT want to do twice, just to save some money on the front end.
K members on facebook marketplace are a dime a dozen.
Don't be banking on selling parts from the kit, because you will take a hit, just like he's going to if he sells it to you.
Personally i'd want a 1/3 off the new price to be worth my trouble. And you really need to know the spring rates and if that's what you want, because it could cost you another 100 bucks to change them, shrinking the deal.
The higher number is stiffer, the lower the softer.
Easiest way to look at is is 150lb is more of a drag race number and 300lb is more of a road coarse number (the numbers get more extreme, just not really for street cars).
I run 275lb.
Edit: I wrote the paragraph above earlier and didn't post it. Now that he has offered $1100 that would be a firm no for me.
Let him find some other guy (which he won't) that's willing to let him off the hook with only a 20% hit.
4 hour drive to save $300? Certainly not enough motivation for me.
When he comes back at you agreeing to the $1000, tell him you spent 100 bucks and now you only have 900.
The $1000 was more than fair (as i said i think too generous), he should have taken it.
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The lb rate of the spring is not that important with a coil over. I have 125 lb springs on the front of my race car and you would be hard pressed to get the front end to move by pushing the front of the car up/down. It comes down to how much the spring is compressed. I have the 125 lb springs compressed 3.5" which results in a compressed load of 437.5 lbs. each. Which is the same has having a 437.5 lb spring not compressed.
If they are 150 lb springs, use them, just compress them 1.5 " or so for a "normal" street ride.
The spring rate is much more critical on a stock suspension where the load the spring has is not adjustable.
What is far more important is the strut. If the strut is to firm, the ride will be rough/hard regardless of the spring rate. It the strut is to soft, the opposite is true and the front end will wallow all over the place. Spend your money on the best adjustable struts you can afford and use whatever the springs are that are included. You can adjust around the spring and get the ride quality you want.
If they are 150 lb springs, use them, just compress them 1.5 " or so for a "normal" street ride.
The spring rate is much more critical on a stock suspension where the load the spring has is not adjustable.
What is far more important is the strut. If the strut is to firm, the ride will be rough/hard regardless of the spring rate. It the strut is to soft, the opposite is true and the front end will wallow all over the place. Spend your money on the best adjustable struts you can afford and use whatever the springs are that are included. You can adjust around the spring and get the ride quality you want.
