K-member swap with engine in car

zenboy99

Founding Member
May 12, 2002
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Madison, WI
I'm thinking of doing this to lighten up my car this winter. A local guy is selling an AJE k-member for my car for cheap, and I'll have the time to put it in this winter. I'm a little scared to mess around with the front end and suspension. I'm assuming this isn't just a simple bolt in and getting the old rusty bolted k-member out might be a challenge with hand tools.

Do most of these just bolt right up, then you get an allignment to straighten things out? Or is it much more involved then that.

A few local mechanics told me I can just put a brace between the shock towers and attach the engine to it.
 
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i personally wouldn't just use a brace. i'd get an engine lift so if i did need to fanagle the engine around i could. but then again, i've never done a k-member so i could just be talking out my arse
 
not sure about that k member might want to look @ the specs on it, some k members moves the front tires a 1/4-1/2 inch up closer to the fender well, my brother has a 89 with a k member with weld rims and has terrible tire rubbing turning.
 
They have a good special right now on their site:
All AJE Racing Complete Kits are 10% off with free shipping in the United States excluding AK and HI.

How good of a deal are you getting?

What is the minimum you can get on a setup like this? I assume you need to get the A arms with the K-member?
 
ZenBoy you are bad... bad... bad. I just got off the phone with Jim at AJE. He had a couple of exchanged k-members at the shop. Owners upgraded for different setups before they finished their cars. He is headed to a event and packing all of them up to sell.

I now have a k-member headed my way. :D I couldn't afford the A-arms yet, but he said I can use the stock A-arms for now. $275 shipped with spring perches. It would have been $413 shipped.

I guess while I'm pulling the engine. I might as well do this, right? I doubt I ever change more than this and the A-arms.
 
You can do it. I would just support the engine front the bottom while holding up top. The 5.0L guys are lucky...their engines have hooks...4.6L you have to get creative. Look at specs as stated...and definately get an alignment. The hand tools are goiing to be the hardest part of the job. Air tools work wonders but sometimes I have trouble using air tools with teh stubborn bolts that go into the rails.
 
I actually put in the Griggs racing Kmember...The weight savings are big I would say like 75LBS right off the front including A-Arms.

The Nice feature is that I was able to set my Motor back 1" so now I have better wieght distribution and alowwed my TKO to line up with my X-Member without notching it.

Bad feature I had to Space up the Motor like 3/8" since my Canton Pan was touching my Flaming River Rack.

Just giving you my experience so incase you have similar parts you know what to look for.
 
I used some heavy duty ratcheting straps and secured the engine to the strut tower brace. Once I unbolted the engine mounts and was able to raise the engine an inch or two, I dropped out the K-member. No problems.