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K member

  • Thread starter Thread starter stangdrvr06
  • Start date Start date Oct 17, 2008
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stangdrvr06

New Member
May 17, 2006
42
0
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Oct 17, 2008
#1
  • Oct 17, 2008
  • #1
Hey all an unfortunate turn of events happened. I slid my 02 gt off the road and hopped it over a median. I bent up my factory engine cradle/ k memeber. I called ford and they said 900$ for a factory piece. I shopped around and found a conversion kit from jegs. Comes with what they claim "everything" for $600. I want to know that will it just bolt up or I'd have to modify other parts? I just don't wanna pay $900 for a factory piece unless its better to just get that.People who have it done please chime in here. Thanks for the help.

Posted via Mobile Device
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
37
109
LA, CA
Oct 17, 2008
#2
  • Oct 17, 2008
  • #2
Get a factory K member from a junkyard. The aftermarket ones generally require aftermarket a-arms and conversion to coilovers. Its not worth geting a cheap aftermarket K-member. I've seen cheap aftermarket ones break.
 

kalvick

Founding Member
Jun 29, 2001
352
8
39
Norwalk, CT
Oct 17, 2008
#3
  • Oct 17, 2008
  • #3
Dude!!!! do it!!! DO it DOOOOO it!!!!
get a k-member, get the coil over, the a-arms, etc....

check out epik's car ugggg... that stance uggg.. uggggg

I WANT THAT!!!

p.s. get k member from maximum motorsports. just say you have a stock setup you want a k-member, and they will sell everything else you need.
 

Gearbanger 101

Straight Outta Locash
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 10, 2002
9,457
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Ontario, Canada
Oct 17, 2008
#4
  • Oct 17, 2008
  • #4
Both BMR and UPR make a reasonably price K-Member kits with coil overs starting at about about $750. I'm pretty sure you can just use the BMR piece as the K-member alone. For that price you'd be foolish not to go with one.
 

stangdrvr06

New Member
May 17, 2006
42
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0
Oct 18, 2008
#5
  • Oct 18, 2008
  • #5
yeah i def want an aftermarket one. Junkyard is prolly hit or miss. I just wanted to know what all i needed to buy. The one on jegs comes with everything. All i would need is camber plates and bumpsteer kit. It comes with the Diff control arms and coilover kit. Im not sure if i can use my stock struts or not. Any1 know?
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
37
109
LA, CA
Oct 18, 2008
#6
  • Oct 18, 2008
  • #6
Don't go cheap on the kmember if yer geting an aftermarket one. I've seen a ground pounder unit break. I suguest the MM k-member kit.
 

Mikie

the ahead of you horseman
Aug 2, 2000
517
1
0
Belmont NC
Oct 18, 2008
#7
  • Oct 18, 2008
  • #7
You would be nuts to go back with a factory unit period ...especially for $900. Dear God, that has to include labor or something

Look at my sig pic and see just how the tubular makes it sit.
Rides great and lost a ton of weight off the nose. If you are going to consider $900 then tubular is the only way to go.
 

02nightmaregt

To hell with your Mustang, I want to see your HOG!
Jul 1, 2007
513
4
19
Southern Indiana
Oct 19, 2008
#8
  • Oct 19, 2008
  • #8
Screw the factory piece for 900. Aftermarket all the way. How old are your shocks? Im not sure but i think you'll need to replace them. I would anyways if your upgrading the whole front end anyways.
 

stangdrvr06

New Member
May 17, 2006
42
0
0
Oct 20, 2008
#9
  • Oct 20, 2008
  • #9
i just had the 2 shocks replaced cuz i bent them up pretty bad. I called and asked jegs they said stock shocks should work fine if its the street setup im getting. I think im def gonna go wit the aftermarket one. Oh 900$ is just for the piece. Shops charge 450$ to install it. Im just gonna get that and have the guy i work with at my shop install it. he said he'll do the install and do the alignment for 250$ so that works for me. thanks for the input everyone
 

SVT32VDOHC

waiting for the next hack atta
Founding Member
Nov 22, 2001
3,501
28
119
Motor City
Oct 20, 2008
#10
  • Oct 20, 2008
  • #10
Get a factory, used out of a salvage yard as said. They fit from 96-04. I sell them fro around 150-200. No need for tubular stuff unless your gonna road race the car.
 

stangdrvr06

New Member
May 17, 2006
42
0
0
Oct 22, 2008
#11
  • Oct 22, 2008
  • #11
Do u have one in stock right now that's in good shape? PM me with details. Thanks
 

Gearbanger 101

Straight Outta Locash
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 10, 2002
9,457
1,377
234
Ontario, Canada
Oct 22, 2008
#12
  • Oct 22, 2008
  • #12
SVT32VDOHC said:
Get a factory, used out of a salvage yard as said. They fit from 96-04. I sell them fro around 150-200. No need for tubular stuff unless your gonna road race the car.
Click to expand...
I dunno....knocking 90lbs off the front end is a good idea no matter how you drive your car IMO?
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
37
109
LA, CA
Oct 22, 2008
#13
  • Oct 22, 2008
  • #13
Its cost benifit ratio. You have to pay to have it installed either way so the labor is going to be the same. The argument doesn't change if you are doing it yourself either, the labor is free so there is no cost. No difference in price of the parts. Is it worth the extra money to the person driving the car becomes the issue. The Kmember is a big upgrade and I just don't see a casual driver geting a good return on what they spend.
 

forum155pl

New Member
Jul 11, 2006
520
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0
the 509
Oct 24, 2008
#14
  • Oct 24, 2008
  • #14
i got the UPR piece and i like it.. i also installed MAC LTS's without dropping the K member..

the UPR came with the K, arms and coilovers.. i think i only spent about 600 on it..
 

stangdrvr06

New Member
May 17, 2006
42
0
0
Oct 24, 2008
#15
  • Oct 24, 2008
  • #15
forum155pl said:
i got the UPR piece and i like it.. i also installed MAC LTS's without dropping the K member..

the UPR came with the K, arms and coilovers.. i think i only spent about 600 on it..
Click to expand...

Were u able to use the stock struts? Let me know asap I'm tryna order mine in a few days thanks bro


Posted via Mobile Device
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,162
17,856
224
Massachusetts
Oct 24, 2008
#16
  • Oct 24, 2008
  • #16
If you go with a K-member, go Max motorsports or nothing else. *some* of these aftermarket k-member kits are not designed for street use on daily driven cars. They have not been tested to survive potholes and 75K miles of driving down streets and uneven surfaces. A lot of them even require periodic inspection. Basically you aren't going to slap one in and just forget about it.

The factory k-member is STRONG. It's just heavy. Some kits do adjust suspension points slightly, but they generally reduce weight at some structural integrity. There are some kits out there that I would not feel safe putting on my car.

I'm not going to name names...but if it was my car and i had to replace the k-member... Max Motorsports, Griggs or factory is all i would even consider.
 

SVT32VDOHC

waiting for the next hack atta
Founding Member
Nov 22, 2001
3,501
28
119
Motor City
Oct 25, 2008
#17
  • Oct 25, 2008
  • #17
Gearbanger 101 said:
I dunno....knocking 90lbs off the front end is a good idea no matter how you drive your car IMO?
Click to expand...

This yellow notch just ran low 10's and still has a stock K-frame and LCA's. Only has coil covers. The car had major traction issues due to the power it put down. Low 9's will come soon.

Alternative Auto Performance's "Spot Light"

His white Mach initially ran 10.58, then moved into the high 9's all retaining the stock K-frame and LCA's.

Alternative Auto's Kenne Bell Equipped Mach-1: Performance Update - Dec 28, 2005

If you saw his cars on the street, you would never think they'd run what they do. I went out to Woodward with that yellow notch of his and it has got to be the quietest sleep I've ever been around. The way that and the white Mach leave the line at the track is out of this world as well.

His cars are running 9's with big wheels and tires, full interior, radio, air/heat, no cage, no fuel cell. This is a perfect example of why you do not need to waste money on all that aftermarket, overpriced, lightweight suspension. It really isn't necessary. It also takes alot out of the car structurally.
 

02nightmaregt

To hell with your Mustang, I want to see your HOG!
Jul 1, 2007
513
4
19
Southern Indiana
Oct 25, 2008
#18
  • Oct 25, 2008
  • #18
SVT32VDOHC said:
This yellow notch just ran low 10's and still has a stock K-frame and LCA's. Only has coil covers. The car had major traction issues due to the power it put down. Low 9's will come soon.

Alternative Auto Performance's "Spot Light"

His white Mach initially ran 10.58, then moved into the high 9's all retaining the stock K-frame and LCA's.

Alternative Auto's Kenne Bell Equipped Mach-1: Performance Update - Dec 28, 2005

If you saw his cars on the street, you would never think they'd run what they do. I went out to Woodward with that yellow notch of his and it has got to be the quietest sleep I've ever been around. The way that and the white Mach leave the line at the track is out of this world as well.

His cars are running 9's with big wheels and tires, full interior, radio, air/heat, no cage, no fuel cell. This is a perfect example of why you do not need to waste money on all that aftermarket, overpriced, lightweight suspension. It really isn't necessary. It also takes alot out of the car structurally.
Click to expand...

Yea i mean thats pretty badass, but if they had saved a bit of money and put it into suspension they would be just as, if not faster. I would rather have a good handling car that is also fast in the straight line. I wouldn't say suspension is a waste Its all in how he wants HIS car st up.
 

Gearbanger 101

Straight Outta Locash
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 10, 2002
9,457
1,377
234
Ontario, Canada
Oct 25, 2008
#19
  • Oct 25, 2008
  • #19
SVT32VDOHC said:
This yellow notch just ran low 10's and still has a stock K-frame and LCA's. Only has coil covers. The car had major traction issues due to the power it put down. Low 9's will come soon.

Alternative Auto Performance's "Spot Light"

His white Mach initially ran 10.58, then moved into the high 9's all retaining the stock K-frame and LCA's.

Alternative Auto's Kenne Bell Equipped Mach-1: Performance Update - Dec 28, 2005

If you saw his cars on the street, you would never think they'd run what they do. I went out to Woodward with that yellow notch of his and it has got to be the quietest sleep I've ever been around. The way that and the white Mach leave the line at the track is out of this world as well.

His cars are running 9's with big wheels and tires, full interior, radio, air/heat, no cage, no fuel cell. This is a perfect example of why you do not need to waste money on all that aftermarket, overpriced, lightweight suspension. It really isn't necessary. It also takes alot out of the car structurally.
Click to expand...
Those examples are all well and good, but I don't see how they prove one point over another? I never said a car couldn't perform without one, but they will always run faster and handle better with one. The removal of the 90lbs from the car (especially off the nose) will aid it weight transfrer which will in turn improve ET's as well as handling. No, it's not a necessity, but neither are 10 1/2 wide wheels, excessivley large throttle bodies and full 3" exhaust systems on stock cars....but that never stops most people for putting them on? Every little bit helps.

Any future Mustang I build is going to get one. Weight savings being the main reason, but the additional room for aftermarket headers or general ability to work underneath unobstructed that they provide is a huge plus as well.

They may not be for everyones budget, but other than a person underspending on a cheap, low quality inferior piece, there are zero negative draw backs to having one.
 
S

stanggt00

New Member
Jul 16, 2003
371
0
0
baltimore md
Oct 26, 2008
#20
  • Oct 26, 2008
  • #20
i just installed my mmr k-member with a-arms,cambers and new struts and all i can say is man i got a lot of room now to get at the starter,headers and oil pan........ also i can hold the k-member in one hand with 2 fingers try doing that with the stock k-member

and i think dropping almost 100lb is = to 10hp
 
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