kenne bell or turbo???.....

[02LaserRed2V]

I find it hilarious to think there are ppl with bolt-on sub-250hp stangs thinking 600rwhp isn't enough. Maybe not if you want to run 8s in the 1/4...

I'd stick to turbo only if I wanted a track king or dyno queen. I wouldn't think having 1000+hp will be all that fun on the street. Hell, my near 381whp KB stang can be frustrating at times, especially when it's cold and the tires wont hook. If you're on street tires or even DRs, don't be surprised if your 1000hp dyno queen gets beat by a 600hp blown stang. Having that much horsepower is like trying to crack a peanut open with a sledgehammer = overkill.

 

[turbofreek]

think of it this way. do you want to step it up later on down the road? if so than maybe a turbo is the way to go? if not maybe a kb is the way to go? how willing/mechanical are you? are you able to do whats needed to intall, tune, maintain either system? one more than the other? do you favor one mor ethan the other? these are the things you need to consider. than you can decide whats best for "you".

 

[Gearbanger 101]

You guys do realize that the guy has a 4V cobra right? The HP kit on that (and forged motor) would really make too much power...more than he needs (re 700+ with like 15psi) .
KB actually sells a 2.2KB kit for his car now for around 6K. It can produce WELL over 600RWHP on a forged engine, and just pully it for its minimum 9PSI and your stock motor will be fine. (around 450 @ 9PSI)

For a street car (M5), that 2.2KB kit will provide him PLENTY of power on his stock engine, AND his built one. I mean jeeze is 650RWHP not enough?

I vote for the 2.2KB kit for the 99-01 cobras.


Here is the deal, you go the turbo route when you want to make more power than the adverage supercharger can handle. If you want OVER 700 DUDE, then TURBO ALL THE WAY! If -700 then get the KB. Cheaper, no sudden spike of crazy power...safer for street use. Not to mention a turbo GT feels just like a stock/bolton (N/A) GT durring normal driving, where as a KB GT feels like a 500 CI muscle car durring part throttle with precise control over all the power.

So you're approaching this from a cost effective standpoint, is that what we're to believe? Since someone who wants to make less than 700rwhp would never see near the potential that a turbo set up has to offer, then why spend the money, right?

If that were the case, then why would someone buy the 2.2L KB, then pulley it for only 9psi? Seems like an equally foolish way to spend money and wast of potential for such a big blower to me? And for that matter, what in your opinion would be the problem with an owner setting up the Turbo set up to run lower boost levels until engine upgrades were made available to utilize it's potential?

sgarlic already quoted the HP Turbo set up complete (fuel system and suspension mods included) at $6,300. Right off the bat that's $99 cheaper than the $6,399 KB 2.2L (not the other way around like you previously stated) and you've still got to take into account the need for a new hood to clear the 2.2L blower profile and the cost of the 8-rib pulley conversion and fuel system upgrades when you do want to push the KB past the limits of the stock internals.

How does that seem more cost efficient by comparison?

If cost is the major argument, why not go with a Novi 2000 or Vortech T-Trim. Both of those blowers are just as capable as the 2.2L Kenne Bell at seeing 600+hp efficiently, but will run you about $2,000 less when all is said and done.

The KB for this particular car any way you slice it is just too expensive and no where near as practical when compared to either of the other power adders. The ’03-‘04 2.2L kits aren’t bad, since they already incorporate the use of the intercooler that came equipped with the factory Eaton, but since the ’99-’01 Cars didn’t come with one, the upgrade to one is going to put you way over the budget when you consider the cost of the Centrifugal or Turbo alternative by comparison.

 

[billfisher]

pro charger if blower.

 

[mogs01gt]

Cheaper, no sudden spike of crazy power...safer for street use. Not to mention a turbo GT feels just like a stock/bolton (N/A) GT durring normal driving, where as a KB GT feels like a 500 CI muscle car durring part throttle with precise control over all the power.

what in the hell are you smoking? A sudden spike in power? This isnt a supra or a 4 cylinder car. You dont experience that with a turbo v8.

 

[hognutz]

So you're approaching this from a cost effective standpoint, is that what we're to believe? Since someone who wants to make less than 700rwhp would never see near the potential that a turbo set up has to offer, then why spend the money, right?

If that were the case, then why would someone buy the 2.2L KB, then pulley it for only 9psi? Seems like an equally foolish way to spend money and wast of potential for such a big blower to me? And for that matter, what in your opinion would be the problem with an owner setting up the Turbo set up to run lower boost levels until engine upgrades were made available to utilize it's potential?

sgarlic already quoted the HP Turbo set up complete (fuel system and suspension mods included) at $6,300. Right off the bat that's $99 cheaper than the $6,399 KB 2.2L (not the other way around like you previously stated) and you've still got to take into account the need for a new hood to clear the 2.2L blower profile and the cost of the 8-rib pulley conversion and fuel system upgrades when you do want to push the KB past the limits of the stock internals.

How does that seem more cost efficient by comparison?

If cost is the major argument, why not go with a Novi 2000 or Vortech T-Trim. Both of those blowers are just as capable as the 2.2L Kenne Bell at seeing 600+hp efficiently, but will run you about $2,000 less when all is said and done.

The KB for this particular car any way you slice it is just too expensive and no where near as practical when compared to either of the other power adders. The ’03-‘04 2.2L kits aren’t bad, since they already incorporate the use of the intercooler that came equipped with the factory Eaton, but since the ’99-’01 Cars didn’t come with one, the upgrade to one is going to put you way over the budget when you consider the cost of the Centrifugal or Turbo alternative by comparison.

If you actually read that page it is $6399 and you need a k member and coilovers. not to mention he will need forged rods and pistons at a min. he is looking at 8k+ to run that kit without one once of labor.

for a street car I would run a centri or a 1.7L KB. anything over 500whp on the street is bit of a beast. if you actually optimize a 500whp car you have a low 10sec ride no problem. not many steet cars are going to get past tech at that et.

the only way you can have a 600hp car that will be legal at the track without quite a few safety upgrades is if it were way slower than it should be. Then again many people talk about 600hp, less have it, even less have it that are actually setup up correctly with the right traction, gearing etc.

 

[mogs01gt]

If you actually read that page it is $6399 and you need a k member and coilovers. not to mention he will need forged rods and pistons at a min. he is looking at 8k+ to run that kit without one once of labor.
for a street car I would run a centri or a 1.7L KB. anything over 500whp on the street is bit of a beast. if you actually optimize a 500whp car you have a low 10sec ride no problem. not many steet cars are going to get past tech at that et.the only way you can have a 600hp car that will be legal at the track without quite a few safety upgrades is if it were way slower than it should be. Then again many people talk about 600hp, less have it, even less have it that are actually setup up correctly with the right traction, gearing etc.

That is why you can turn down the boost, turn off the nitrous or keep your foot out of it. Its not that hard. 600 hp can run 10s easily with any standard after market suspension upgrades that can be installed in a few hours.

 

[billfisher]

all that stuff plus the driving skill and setup to avoid hitting the car beside, or the wall.

 

[hognutz]

That is why you can turn down the boost, turn off the nitrous or keep your foot out of it. Its not that hard. 600 hp can run 10s easily with any standard after market suspension upgrades that can be installed in a few hours.

what is this keep you foot out of it you talk about? I have never been very good at that.

when did I say you could not run 10's with 600whp? you can run 10's with 400whp if you car is dialed in.

I just think the cost of the turbo kit is to high. that is me though. if you want to be the aftermarket K and coilovers anyway I guess it is a wash.

 

[the98stang]

what do you all think about this turbo system?...

http://www.proturbokits.com/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=126

or should i just go with a kenne bell 1.7??

thanks for the input guys!!!!

neither...

go with a paxton!

 

[tontot77]

honestly, just get something with a LS1 in it and be done with it...

 

[BLK_ROUSH]

what do you all think about this turbo system?...

http://www.proturbokits.com/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=126

or should i just go with a kenne bell 1.7??

thanks for the input guys!!!!

Well, there certainly a lot of opinions out there.
Have you had a chance to ride in either a trubo or KB car?

 

[jstreet0204]

Well, there certainly a lot of opinions out there.
Have you had a chance to ride in either a trubo or KB car?

One would think that at least riding in both might be a good prerequisite for giving advice on this subject, but if that were the case, you'd only have about two people post in this thread.

 

[Gearbanger 101]

If you actually read that page it is $6399 and you need a k member and coilovers. .

One of us certainly needs to read that page, but it isn’t me. Take another look.....

The base Stage I Twin Turbo kit consists of 1 ¾'' primary tube, CNC mandrel-bent, 14-ga. mild steel tubular headers. The header flanges are laser cut 3/8'' mild steel. The primary tubes each merge into a separate ceramic coated pipe ending in a turbo flange on which the turbos are mounted. After traveling through the turbocharger, the exhaust gases then go through a dual ceramic-coated h-pipe that connects to the stock cat back in the factory position. Starting from the turbo discharge on the cold side, 2 ½'' tubes connect the turbos to the top of the intercooler. Exiting the intercooler, the cooled air goes through a 3'' tube into a C&L (blow through) MAF and then to the custom throttle body tube. All tubing is CNC mandrel-bent on a 5'' radius and Jet-Hot "Sterling" ceramic coated (looks like highly polished aluminum). All connections on the exhaust side are made using stainless steel V-band clamps. On the cold side, the connections are 3-ply silicone hose fastened with stainless steel T-bolt clamps. The kit comes with two T3/T4 50mm turbos (max 750-800 rwhp), two BOV valves,two Tial 38mm wastegates, fuel pump upgrade, a C&L mass air meter calibrated to the eight 42# fuel injectors, a computer upgrade chip and a front suspension kit including a tubular K-member, tubular control arms, coil-over spring conversion and adjustable camber/caster plates. Estimated 20 hours install time. Kit carries a 1-year parts and workmanship warranty, a 3-year ceramic coating warranty and a limited lifetime warranty on the headers and all tubing components.

http://www.turbochargedpower.com/96-04 Mustang.htm

not to mention he will need forged rods and pistons at a min. he is looking at 8k+ to run that kit without one once of labor.

Why are you considering forged pistons and rods a necessity with the twin turbo kit, but not the 2.2L KB? The Turbo kit can easily be utilized to make 4-6psi to keep things bottom end friendly for the stock rotating assembly until an engine build is in the cards, just as the Kenne Bell unit can. Tack on the cost of forged rods and pistons to the cost of the already more expensive Kenne Bell kit any you’re still over and above the cost of this turbo.

I’ll agree, that if keeping things under 350rwhp or so is what the owner wants to do, then a smaller blower like the 1.7L or a small, slower spun centrifugal will work just fine. But you speak of going with the 1.7L to make 500hp, which is possible, but not practical. You’ll never see it on street gas with normal timing levels, or without ponying up the extra dough for the intercooler system…..which as already mentioned puts you right up into the $6,800 range. Do the math….which method of making power makes more sense to you!?!

A maximum of about 450hp on street gas with the 1.7L Kenne Bell for $6,800.00 + the cost of forged internals
A maximum of about 600hp on street gas with the 2.2L Kenne Bell for $6,400.00 + the cost of an 8-rib pulley swap, fuel system upgrade, new hood and the cost of forged internals

….or a completely adjustable twin turbo system from that’s just as happy huffing out 400hp as it is 600hp without the need to change or upgrade components at any point (within reason), and if need be can be pushed beyond that with fuel system upgrades. A unit that comes standard with custom built tubular exhaust and all needed suspension upgrades….that can be run at lower levels to keep the rotating assembly happy, or can have the wick turned up to kill everything in it’s path and all without requiring the swap to a different drive pulley system or hood swap because of clearance issues for the cheapest of the bunch price of $6,395.00 + the cost of forged internals.

It seems pretty clear cut to me. You don’t have to like it, but you can’t deny it!

 

[hognutz]

One of us certainly needs to read that page, but it isn’t me. Take another look.....


http://www.turbochargedpower.com/96-04 Mustang.htm

this is the kit he posted. all that is not included. http://www.proturbokits.com/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=126

I did not see that other kit in the thread until now. that is a twin kit he posted a single.

 

[Gearbanger 101]

this is the kit he posted. all that is not included. http://www.proturbokits.com/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=126

I did not see that other kit in the thread until now. that is a twin kit he posted a single.

Ahhh, I see. We seem to be talking about two different kits. If you'll notice though, I originally referenced the HP kit sgarlic mentioned in my original post, not the posters original kit.

You're correct though, the kit in the original post doesn't include the tubular K-member or the front suspension components.....but it's also $5549.99 by comparison. That's still $1,250.00 cheaper than the intercooled version of the 1.7L KB ($6,800) and way way cheaper than the 2.2L kit when you consider the needed suporting components to make it work with the car.

That $1,250.00-$3,000+ price difference saved between either kit would sure go a long way towards upgrading to a tubular K-member and suspension components though, wouldn't you think?

.....just saying.

 

[four.six]

http://www.turbochargedpower.com/96-04 Mustang.htm

i didnt see this one on the internet when i was searching... i think we got a winner!!! can i get the stage one kit and produce 500 to the wheels with forged rods and pistons??

 

[Gearbanger 101]

i didnt see this one on the internet when i was searching... i think we got a winner!!! can i get the stage one kit and produce 500 to the wheels with forged rods and pistons??

Without even breaking a sweat. How's 517rwhp/530rwtq @ only 9psi grab ya.

Here's one owner who did it with your exact car in bone stock trim....http://www.turbochargedpower.com/2001 Mustang Cobra - Robert Gore.htm



*EDIT*
This guy's also from Texas (Fort Worth)....about 5 1/5 hours from you by the looks of it. It might be worth your while getting a hold of him or taking a drive to see what it looks like in person and finding out what he thinks of the kit himself.

 

[tontot77]

Turbo numbers always will be outstanding... and if you're willing to re-build you're shortblock, you have a TON more options. I didn't know you wanted it that bad.

 

[billabong26z]

If I had the money I would go with turbos the prices at turbochargedpower.com are pretty descent considering what you get with the kit.