I don't see anything in the service manual about sealing the key in.
Progress Thread Komo's 1990 GT - Parts Gathering Purgatory & Home Remodel
- Thread starter gkomo
- Start date
I have done dozens of crank damper installs and have never put sealer on the crank bolt/washer or keyway,
I have pulled a lot of dampers off that had sealant, but I have never used it.
I never had a comeback for a lack of sealant on the damper bolt/washer/keyway either.
I doubt it hurts anything to use it, seeing as the manual says to. Lol.
I also torque the crank bolt down with a 1/2" impact gun. 4 ugga ugga's is usually tight enough.
I have pulled a lot of dampers off that had sealant, but I have never used it.
I never had a comeback for a lack of sealant on the damper bolt/washer/keyway either.
I doubt it hurts anything to use it, seeing as the manual says to. Lol.
I also torque the crank bolt down with a 1/2" impact gun. 4 ugga ugga's is usually tight enough.
Yeah, ahhh no never put anything on the key way either, and I use a long bar on my 1/2" socket and extension , chock the wheels (or just one in my case) put it in second gear and pull that bar until the car jumps the wheel chock and runs over my foot......yeah, that's tight enough 
Not that pulling the balancer off when I haven’t even put the crank bolt in is hard, but I’d rather not have to. May run it as is. If it leaks I guess at that point I could remove it and RTV the keyway.
Ok got everything back together. Put the drive belt on and it’s too long:
So the stock 1990 GT belt per LMR should be 91”. Since I put on the 1993 cobra pullies I’m assuming I need a stock 1993 cobra belt which is 88.9” per LMR. If you look at the top picture, I would think taking off 2” from my current belt would work just looking at it from a visual perspective. Right?
Right now the tensioner isn’t doing anything and I can almost stick my finger between the tensioner pulley and the belt.
All that’s left is a new belt and I think I’ll change the oil too before starting it up.
Oh and the timing light contraption looks the same as the one that’s on the car just newer, obviously. So I’m not going to replace that right now.
So the stock 1990 GT belt per LMR should be 91”. Since I put on the 1993 cobra pullies I’m assuming I need a stock 1993 cobra belt which is 88.9” per LMR. If you look at the top picture, I would think taking off 2” from my current belt would work just looking at it from a visual perspective. Right?
Right now the tensioner isn’t doing anything and I can almost stick my finger between the tensioner pulley and the belt.
All that’s left is a new belt and I think I’ll change the oil too before starting it up.
Oh and the timing light contraption looks the same as the one that’s on the car just newer, obviously. So I’m not going to replace that right now.
Yep, you will need a shorter belt. Double check your routing first. LMR has a diagram.Ok got everything back together. Put the drive belt on and it’s too long:
So the stock 1990 GT belt per LMR should be 91”. Since I put on the 1993 cobra pullies I’m assuming I need a stock 1993 cobra belt which is 88.9” per LMR. If you look at the top picture, I would think taking off 2” from my current belt would work just looking at it from a visual perspective. Right?
Right now the tensioner isn’t doing anything and I can almost stick my finger between the tensioner pulley and the belt.
All that’s left is a new belt and I think I’ll change the oil too before starting it up.
Oh and the timing light contraption looks the same as the one that’s on the car just newer, obviously. So I’m not going to replace that right now.
I’m pretty sure I routed it correctly. I do have a belt sticker on my radiator support plus I did check LMR as well. I think I just need the shorter belt. But logically the 1993 Cobra belt would be the correct one right?
The one on the car was a Goodyear belt, should I just buy the one from LMR (which I think it’s Dayco?) or is there a better brand?
Ordered the belt and some new outer window molding (to get free shipping)…. That’ll get ya!
In the past when I needed a longer or shorter belt, I took a string and taped one end to a pulley then routed it as it should be and measured at that point, then just go to Autozone or whatever and buy the right length.
Ugh, so I change my oil… can’t get the old filter off. There is a sticker on it that says March of 2022 I believe, kinda hard to tell. Great. My oil filter removal tool I use for my Toyotas isn’t big enough so I’ll need to get the right one. Could not for the life of me get it off with just my hands.
So since that easy project stalled I tried to replace my sway bar bushings, super easy job on my 4Runner, not so much on the Fox. I break the bolts loose and a bunch of plastic pieces start falling on me…? What could this be the bolts on my 4runner just bolt into the metal frame or whatever. Look from the top and there are nuts surrounded by a plastic contraption. Great now the bolts are just spinning with the nut. Ran out of time of course to finish the seemingly easy jobs. lol. Another day!
So since that easy project stalled I tried to replace my sway bar bushings, super easy job on my 4Runner, not so much on the Fox. I break the bolts loose and a bunch of plastic pieces start falling on me…? What could this be the bolts on my 4runner just bolt into the metal frame or whatever. Look from the top and there are nuts surrounded by a plastic contraption. Great now the bolts are just spinning with the nut. Ran out of time of course to finish the seemingly easy jobs. lol. Another day!
Ordered the LMR sway bar mounting kit. Comes with a metal backing plate so should be beefier than the OEM plastic.
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