Progress Thread Komo's 1990 GT - Parts Gathering Purgatory & Home Remodel

gkomo · Mar 13, 2025

nicholase said:
Personally I don't feel crimp on connectors are a reliable connection. I saw you mentioned having some trouble picking up soldering. I'd suggest investing a bit into a decent solder station. It make a world of difference. Get a few different size tips and within 5 minutes you'll be a pro.

May as well face it you're gonna be repairing and adding in wiring for as long as you have the car. Get a nice solder setup. They aren't really that much. A Weller WE1010NA is all you'll ever need.

Congrats on getting the fuel tank finished up.

The interesting thing about the stator wire is it looks like the other end just goes into a wire harness, so i wouldn't be able to like remove it and solder at a station per se, would have to be soldered in the engine bay. Not that its a big deal. Soldering itself didn't seem to hard i think my little wand iron just wasn't getting the thicker wires hot enough or something.

I'll pick up that Weller you referenced. Luckily i'm not out too much money on the little wand solder iron i have, i believe it was like $30, and may have its uses here and there.

Edit: the stator wire is so small, my existing iron may work. I'll give it a shot.

nicholase · Mar 13, 2025

gkomo said:
The interesting thing about the stator wire is it looks like the other end just goes into a wire harness, so i wouldn't be able to like remove it and solder at a station per se, would have to be soldered in the engine bay. Not that its a big deal. Soldering itself didn't seem to hard i think my little wand iron just wasn't getting the thicker wires hot enough or something.

I'll pick up that Weller you referenced. Luckily i'm not out too much money on the little wand solder iron i have, i believe it was like $30, and may have its uses here and there.

A solder station will work fine for that. It just means there's a control box and seperate tool tip. You just set the "box" on something close to the work. It's light. I've used those wands before and they are pretty terrible lol. The issue is they aren't really temperature controlled at all. So they just get hot, and hotter, and hotter until they just become heat damaged. Then they heat poorly and inconsistently.

The solder station will keep the tip at a constant temperature and also let you know when the tip is ready for use. They take about 10 seconds to get to temp. It really is a night and day difference. Any quality solder station will do. I'm just familiar with Weller. Hakko is another good brand.

I had a moment of revelation when I got my first one. It really is an amazing difference.

gkomo · Mar 13, 2025

Started the ECU removal ‘process’. Got as far as removing the blower motor unit to have more room to remove the ECU. Next part should be easy and hopefully I can send it out to ECUexchange early next week.

Hopefully getting the blower motor back in won’t cause issue… was a little difficult getting it out.

AeroCoupe · Mar 14, 2025

You should not have to remove the blower motor to remove the ECU but it does help.

gkomo · Mar 14, 2025

AeroCoupe said:
You should not have to remove the blower motor to remove the ECU but it does help.

I watched a few different YouTube videos and the one where they removed the blower motor they were saying it would probably take the same amount of time as trying to wrangle the ECU out of the tight space without the chance of damaging/scratching the ECU case.

What’s done is done so I’ll just move forward with this method. Gives me a chance to clean up the blower motor and the area up under the dash too.

gkomo · Mar 15, 2025

100% glad I took the blower motor unit out. The ECU connector was such a pain to disconnect; I basically spent 20 minutes rotating the ECU back to front and using a flat head like slowly pried it apart just going around and around the connector. Finally got it out but the extra room was crucial.

I’m already not looking forward to getting it back and buttoning everything up.

AeroCoupe · Mar 15, 2025

When you put the 60 pin connector into the ECU put a little dielectric grease on the sides of the connector and that will help.

gkomo · Mar 15, 2025

AeroCoupe said:
When you put the 60 pin connector into the ECU put a little dielectric grease on the sides of the connector and that will help.

Perfect! I was gonna ask that exact question so you saved me a post.

On another note, today I was under the car just cleaning stuff and I remembered the loose plug I saw from when the subframes were getting installed. Crawled as far as I could down by the transmission (only have the rear of the car jacked up right now) and traced the plug and I’m 99% certain it is the NGS connector as it originates up on the top of the transmission drivers side. That would explain my KOEO code 67. I wasn’t able to get far enough under the car to plug it in…. However it looks like the other connector it plugs into like rested on the exhaust and partially melted. Like I said I couldn’t even try to connect them without the space… hopefully they do because I don’t know how to replace the damaged connector:

AeroCoupe · Mar 15, 2025

I would just get this one and be done with it. You may be able to depin the original one and just use the new connector on the old wires which will keep you from having to cut, connect, and heat shrink the connections from the original wires to the new pigtail.

https://lmr.com/item/LRS-8693NSSM/Mustang-Neutral-Safety-Switch-Harness-For-T5-86-93

gkomo · Mar 15, 2025

AeroCoupe said:
I would just get this one and be done with it. You may be able to depin the original one and just use the new connector on the old wires which will keep you from having to cut, connect, and heat shrink the connections from the original wires to the new pigtail.

https://lmr.com/item/LRS-8693NSSM/Mustang-Neutral-Safety-Switch-Harness-For-T5-86-93

Oh perfect that’s exactly what I need!

Scrapla347 · Mar 17, 2025

gkomo said:
Thank you! I did watch the LMR video but they don’t address the part that goes down inside the door, kinda just say “get it in the channel” and walah they are done.

I know it's old but I just replaced my run channel trim and that part inside the door is a PITA. I loosened the two bolts holing in that lower track and used plenty of dish soap to lube the trim. I folded it like a taco with one hand and with the other hand stuck in a very long flat hear screwdriver and pushed the taco into the channel.

gkomo · Mar 17, 2025

Scrapla347 said:
I know it's old but I just replaced my run channel trim and that part inside the door is a PITA. I loosened the two bolts holing in that lower track and used plenty of dish soap to lube the trim. I folded it like a taco with one hand and with the other hand stuck in a very long flat hear screwdriver and pushed the taco into the channel.

Good info because i've only done one side and i know i've done something wrong because my window now rolls up/down super slowly and i feel like i'm straining the window motor too much. I still need to do the other side at some point and will take any tips i can.

Scrapla347 · Mar 17, 2025

gkomo said:
Good info because i've only done one side and i know i've done something wrong because my window now rolls up/down super slowly and i feel like i'm straining the window motor too much. I still need to do the other side at some point and will take any tips i can.

Yea no problem. Another issue that can cause the window to slow down is your door panel being pinched. Where the side mirror bolts in can pinch the metal enough to slow your window down. With the mirror removed you can very carefully pry that section open a bit. I used a plastic panel tool to spread that section apart a but more. Also the run channel comes in contact with the belt bolding aka dew strip. I used a razor and trimmed the lower portion of my run channel molding where it comes down and meets the door.

gkomo · Mar 17, 2025

Scrapla347 said:
Yea no problem. Another issue that can cause the window to slow down is your door panel being pinched. Where the side mirror bolts in can pinch the metal enough to slow your window down. With the mirror removed you can very carefully pry that section open a bit. I used a plastic panel tool to spread that section apart a but more. Also the run channel comes in contact with the belt bolding aka dew strip. I used a razor and trimmed the lower portion of my run channel molding where it comes down and meets the door.

Good call because thats exactly where it slows the window down. I thought it had something to do with how i put the run-channel weatherstripping in because it looks 'smooshed' right at that bend point, but maybe its just because of what you are describing with the mirror is whats causing the 'smooshing'.

Scrapla347 · Mar 17, 2025

gkomo said:
Good call because thats exactly where it slows the window down. I thought it had something to do with how i put the run-channel weatherstripping in because it looks 'smooshed' right at that bend point, but maybe its just because of what you are describing with the mirror is whats causing the 'smooshing'.

Good luck!

AeroCoupe · Mar 17, 2025

I drilled the rivets for the glass, pulled the glass, changed runs, put the glass back in, and installed new rivets. Bought an air rivet gun at Harbor Freight a long time ago but they still have one at a decent price and with their constant coupons you can get it cheaper.

1/4 in. Air/Hydraulic Riveter

Amazing deals on this Air Hydraulic Riveter at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

gkomo · Mar 17, 2025

Was poking around the garage tonight, spotted my blower motor sitting on the floor looking pretty ragged, super dusty/dirty so I decided to clean it up.

I noticed the two halves of the assembly weren’t even ‘together’ all the way, and two bolts holding it together were missing. I tried pushing them together but they wouldn’t go…. Too much gunk and butyl was preventing them from sealing correctly.

Old:

Cleaned:

Was pretty much the same story for the other half. Cleaned that up as well… put the two together and used some spare bolts I had laying around to replace the missing ones.

Just need to vacuum the foam seals as they are super dusty but it’s too late to have a loud ass vacuum running.

Edit: I may just buy one of the seal kits from LMR and replace all the nasty foam.

Noobz347 · Mar 18, 2025

The new seal kit will give you one less rattle, going down the road.

gkomo · Mar 18, 2025

Ordered the blower motor assembly seal kit.

Also was able to send out my ECU to ECUExchange yesterday as well.

85GTStangGuy · Mar 18, 2025

Which seal kit did you get?

Progress Thread Komo's 1990 GT - Parts Gathering Purgatory & Home Remodel

now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft

I lubed and pushed, until it was all the way in

now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft

now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft

Active Member

now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft

Active Member

now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft

Active Member

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor

now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency