Scrapla347
Active Member
I use a piece of vacuum hose I shove onto the plug and use it to get them started then a very long extension with a wobble socket.
Progress Thread Komo's 1990 GT - Parts Gathering Purgatory & Home Remodel
- Thread starter gkomo
- Start date
The first time you take it off it might be a bit of a pain. But when you do it the first time you can put all the clamps facing in a good position. Then it literally take 3 minutes to take it off next time, with these cars there wil ALWAYS be a next time
Makes the whole process so much easier.
How long has it been in there for? Does it smoke or burn though oil? If not, and you personally never changed them before I'd just run it and check it next oil change.
So i bought the car in September of 2024. This is my first plug change and i have no idea how long the existing ones were in there. The electrode (head) of the plugs all look pretty square and not rounded off so i would assume they are somewhat newish? The car has only been driven probably 100-150 miles (not including the 40 mile drive home) since ive owned it. I'll wrap up changing the plugs (and wires) and keep an eye on it. That plug specifically is easy to get in/out thankfully.The first time you take it off it might be a bit of a pain. But when you do it the first time you can put all the clamps facing in a good position. Then it literally take 3 minutes to take it off next time, with these cars there wil ALWAYS be a next time
Makes the whole process so much easier.
How long has it been in there for? Does it smoke or burn though oil? If not, and you personally never changed them before I'd just run it and check it next oil change.
and thankfully the smog clamps are all facing upwards already.
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ECUExchange sent me an email saying my ECU was taking longer than expected... hopefully that doesn't (or does? lol) mean it was all fubar'd up.
Scrapla347
Active Member
I would bet they are just busy. I'm pretty sure all they do is replace the caps and make sure the thing powers on.
For me without knowing the history on the plugs trying to get any info from how they look is pointless. Put the new ones in and run it. Pull the #1 and #6 and then see what they look like.
Good plan, just made me nervous that the one plug was literally covered in black wet sludge down inside and around the plug head so I know it’s not from it getting dirty just from pulling it out and scraping against the caked on dirt on the head.
Omg I’m such an idiot, thank you @nicholase for the smog tube suggestion, all I had to do was disconnect one end of the top tube and I got the plug in in like 2 minutes, like this:
If the valve covers leak or leaked in the past the oil will migrate down the plug threads. Another thing is that when motors sit for a long time all bets are off. Just replace the plugs and then start reading them.
Ya it seems the consensus is to replace them and check later. So last night I finished up the plugs and wires, I’ve done the fuel pump and filter, cap/rotor. Just need to check timing and bump up to 12 degrees once I can start the car again. 10-minute tune up should be complete. I cleaned the throttle body blade which didn’t look too bad… a little black buildup on the backside but nothing crazy.
I think the next thing on my list will be to tackle replacing the rear LCAs, I just need to buy a second set of jackstands. Do I need any special grease for the outside of the LCA bushings? I read the MM instructions and they don’t mention putting grease on the outside of the bushings (like where the bushing meets the hangars), just on the inside when installing the bushings. I think overall that should be a fairly straight forward job.
If you have the poly bushings it wouldn't hurt to add the grease to the outsides as well as poly can sometimes be squeaky. Below is a link to the grease you need, perhaps a local auto parts store might have it.
Late now, but I use an old plug wire boot to get the plugs threaded into the head.
Got a new coolant overflow tank in yesterday. The old one was literally black and brown inside down closer to the water line. I was cleaning it and the most disgusting water was coming out so I ended up tossing it not just because of that but the top bolt tab was broken anyways.
Reused my coolant sensor (cleaned it as well) and cap… it was like welded together I had to pry them apart with flat head screw drivers. Got them apart and put some grease around the mating surfaces to hopefully keep them from sticking together again.
Reused my coolant sensor (cleaned it as well) and cap… it was like welded together I had to pry them apart with flat head screw drivers. Got them apart and put some grease around the mating surfaces to hopefully keep them from sticking together again.
From ECUExchange:
We've finished the repair on your computer. It did turn on and run for the initial test but we did find some small issues due to age which were repaired.
Your computer will be cleaned and sealed for moisture intrusion before returning.
We found your computer had an old power supply which was not creating the correct voltages.
There was also some small physical board damage that needed to be repaired.
We replaced the power supply, capacitors and voltage regulators. The computer is now fully functional and responding properly.
We also Beefed up some other common to fail circuits while we had the computer open on the bench to prevent future failures.
Okay okay +1 for ECUExchange!
We've finished the repair on your computer. It did turn on and run for the initial test but we did find some small issues due to age which were repaired.
Your computer will be cleaned and sealed for moisture intrusion before returning.
We found your computer had an old power supply which was not creating the correct voltages.
There was also some small physical board damage that needed to be repaired.
We replaced the power supply, capacitors and voltage regulators. The computer is now fully functional and responding properly.
We also Beefed up some other common to fail circuits while we had the computer open on the bench to prevent future failures.
Okay okay +1 for ECUExchange!
Started the LCA swap, but only got as far as taking apart the bushings and re-greasing them all. Got under the car and was just going to loosen the front/rear bolts but ran into the known issue of the mufflers being in the way of the forward bolts. So i just need to loosen the catback connection to midpipe, get the exhaust out the way. Good news is, i can do this without extra jackstands. I'll just use a jack to lower/raise the rear of the LCA (one side at a time) for the swap. CJ Pony has a good youtube tutorial.
Ok newb/dumb question… but I’m trying to change out my PCV and mesh screen… I know where the PCV is but for the life of me don’t see anything that even looks remotely like the “F” fitting with a vacuum hose coming out of it. Sorry for the bad pics but I ‘think’ the hose circled in red is the PCV but the hose also looks way too big?
Which means even if I replace it I wouldn’t be able to plug that hose back into the new one. Just for more info that hose circled in red goes up underneath the back of the upper intake.
Am I missing something here?
Edit: this is where that hose connects to.
Which means even if I replace it I wouldn’t be able to plug that hose back into the new one. Just for more info that hose circled in red goes up underneath the back of the upper intake.
Am I missing something here?
Edit: this is where that hose connects to.
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I don't think you're missing anything. If you can see it and can [barely] get two fingers on it, you've probably got the right one.
I think it's a what... 3/8" inside diameter which makes it 1/2" to 3/4" OD? It's dead center of the lower plenum and [really] close to the back of the upper plenum.
You can see the PCV port all the way over to the right.
The PCV valve will likely come out of the grommet before the vacuum hose lets go but... either way.
Below that is a grommet:
You may be able to feel the edge/lip of this thing with your fingers.
Below that is the PCV screen:
You may or may [not] have the "F" or vacuum tree on the top depending on model year.
I do not believe my 86 has one. It's just a single line.
I think it's a what... 3/8" inside diameter which makes it 1/2" to 3/4" OD? It's dead center of the lower plenum and [really] close to the back of the upper plenum.
You can see the PCV port all the way over to the right.
The PCV valve will likely come out of the grommet before the vacuum hose lets go but... either way.
Below that is a grommet:
You may be able to feel the edge/lip of this thing with your fingers.
Below that is the PCV screen:
You may or may [not] have the "F" or vacuum tree on the top depending on model year.
I do not believe my 86 has one. It's just a single line.
Can I use the “F” type valve instead? I have some 5/16” fuel like that fits on the valve side, not sure about the connection under the intake.
You're talking about this guy:
I just put off the plastic piece.
I don't know which cars use the extra port or what it's for.
This freaking bulldog is sitting next to me, whining about some damned thing. I need to teach him some basic English.
I think he waits until he hears me typing...
I just put off the plastic piece.
I don't know which cars use the extra port or what it's for.
This freaking bulldog is sitting next to me, whining about some damned thing. I need to teach him some basic English.
I think he waits until he hears me typing...
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