Progress Thread Komo's 1990 GT - Parts Gathering Purgatory & Home Remodel
- Thread starter gkomo
- Start date
I believe tire shops can patch tires depending on where the puncture is. Since this was borderline on the sidewall they 'had' to order a new tire apparently.
BTW, love the Solvang area. Great weekend away with the lady type place.
Yeah, I was a pretty serious cyclist for much of my life (no more) and lived there 2008-2014, mainly for the cycling. Really great weather and country roads aplenty. It’s paradise, really. I miss the place terribly but, the gun laws, taxes, and general nanny state government will probably keep me from ever living there again.
Seems to be a common thread of people who have lived here then moved away. With us moving forward with our second story addition, we are committed to the long haul here (hefty chunk of change and effort). We've talked about buying a second property out of state to visit/live part time at, but that doesn't solve the issues mentioned above anyways.
85GTStangGuy
5 Year Member
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Got the new tire back on. My kid is off school the entire month of August (…yaaaay), so that means I don’t have to take her to school which also means I can drive the Mustang to work every day!
Drove the Mustang to work today. She ran great, even in stop/go traffic getting onto the freeway. Car seems like it wants to wander a bit driving at freeway speeds. Not a new symptom, probably has to do with my inner/outer tie rods as well as the 'bad' balljoint. (still not sure if its actually bad). I haven't gotten a proper alignment due to said tie rods, but with my future steering component swap planned, i won't worry about it too much for now. She tracks straight, just wanders a bit.
Ran just a KOEO scan once i got to work just for the hell of it. My damn code 34 is back. Been reading up on that code more and more. Sounds like i need to probe the wires going to the EGR sensor to make sure they are in the specified range and go from there. EGR sensor and valve are both new.
The wires coming down off the sensor are the ones i need to probe, correct?
Ran just a KOEO scan once i got to work just for the hell of it. My damn code 34 is back. Been reading up on that code more and more. Sounds like i need to probe the wires going to the EGR sensor to make sure they are in the specified range and go from there. EGR sensor and valve are both new.
The wires coming down off the sensor are the ones i need to probe, correct?
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Have you seen this post? Might help with some trouble shooting.
Oo nevermind, code 34 was in continuous memory only on KOEO. Just present in KOER. Still need to resolve it though.
Curious if my rear Bilstein top bushings look too 'squished' or not? I tried torquing them to spec (which is pretty low), but my torque wrench got them even more tight/squished and never actually clicked before i thought it didn't look right. These photos are with the nuts backed off a little so the bushing isn't completely pancaked. I only have one torque wrench that goes from like 20ftlb to 250ftlb. I just didn't want these to be too tight where it causes binding or anything.
I counted the threads so each side is identical. The first picture shows the squished bushing, second shows threads.
I counted the threads so each side is identical. The first picture shows the squished bushing, second shows threads.
Choose a torque wrench where your target torque value falls between 30% and 80% of the wrench’s total capacity.
Below 20–30% Most torque wrenches become inaccurate at the low end of their range.
Above 80–90% You risk overstressing the wrench, which affects longevity and calibration.
30–80% sweet spot = best accuracy and tool life.
I would retorque with another torque wrench. Believe it not, the Harbor Freight torque wrenches are rated as some of the best for maintaining calibration and they're cheap.
Below 20–30% Most torque wrenches become inaccurate at the low end of their range.
Above 80–90% You risk overstressing the wrench, which affects longevity and calibration.
30–80% sweet spot = best accuracy and tool life.
I would retorque with another torque wrench. Believe it not, the Harbor Freight torque wrenches are rated as some of the best for maintaining calibration and they're cheap.
Yaa been meaning to get a 'smaller' wrench for a while. I used to have one that only went up to 150ftlbs but it was old (someone from work gave it to me) and i didn't trust it after a while. Then i had a wheel bearing/hub job on another car that required a torque spec of 185ftlb so i bought the one i currently have. Need to get a smaller one again.
But before i do that, just visually, do those bushings look too tightened down? or kind of pointless to say based on visual, and just go get a proper torque wrench?
Hmm may need to loosen them up a bit more before I can go out and get a better suited torque wrench. Hope my bushings aren’t deformed now.
Alright, i've now DD'd my Mustang for 3 days in a row. I GOT to swap out these horrendous springs. This car is so uncomfortable to drive regularly (not that it will always be); every regular road bump makes my cheeks pucker and the car is bouncy. I attribute the bounciness to still running the Koni oranges up front - which i suspect, just like the rears before the Bilstein swap, are not doing anything.
I will deal with it until i can save up enough for front coilovers, but thats like over a grand from MM.
I will deal with it until i can save up enough for front coilovers, but thats like over a grand from MM.
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