Progress Thread Komo's 1990 GT - Parts Gathering Purgatory & Home Remodel
- Thread starter gkomo
- Start date
Alright progress for tonight was:
- regap drivers side plugs. I’m using one of those coin type gappers so can’t say it’s 100% accurate, but they are all like .043ish. Took the discharge pipe off and will tackle passenger side plugs soon
- retorqued my s/c’r tensioner to 80ft/lb. I’ve been reading up on what other people have done and that seems like a common torque value, once I can start my car up again I want to see if that eliminates my belt squeal issue
- and no going back now, drilled the 8 pilot holes in the hood for the louvers
- regap drivers side plugs. I’m using one of those coin type gappers so can’t say it’s 100% accurate, but they are all like .043ish. Took the discharge pipe off and will tackle passenger side plugs soon
- retorqued my s/c’r tensioner to 80ft/lb. I’ve been reading up on what other people have done and that seems like a common torque value, once I can start my car up again I want to see if that eliminates my belt squeal issue
- and no going back now, drilled the 8 pilot holes in the hood for the louvers
Ok got the passenger side plugs regapped. What used to be one of the easiest plugs to change (#1) was now the hardest due to the s/c’r. I had such a pain time getting the inlet pipe on I didn’t want to take that off, and that damn hard fuel line is right in the way now.
Had to use multiple extensions with a swivel and go through/in between the inlet pipe down to the plug. Anyways, got it done, so now it’s all waiting on steering component parts.
Had to use multiple extensions with a swivel and go through/in between the inlet pipe down to the plug. Anyways, got it done, so now it’s all waiting on steering component parts.
Well, since i have the front Bilstein struts still coming... i figured before installing them now would be the time to do the front coilover conversion so i ordered up the COP-1 MM coilovers with 250lb springs.
When you do your steering column work make sure you keep the ignition locked or bungee the steering wheel to something when you have the shafts seperated. The steering wheel will free wheel and it can ruin your clocks spring (wiring contraption in steerimg column to allow wiring to your air bag and cruise ). Those things are unobatnium.
When I took mine apart I didn't have it locked and it started freewheeling. I caught it just in time.
When I took mine apart I didn't have it locked and it started freewheeling. I caught it just in time.
Yes i was planning on ratchet strapping it to the seat base, or locking it via the ignition. I've been reading up on this install and read that the wheel can 'undo' itself.
I'm still confused though and maybe when i actually do the install i'll find out, but looking at the photos of both the MM hybrid shaft to rack connection, its triangular, and then looking at the MM shaft to firewall area column connection, its like a flat-ish bar... i feel like if i have the steering wheel centered, and the rack centered, the shaft can only go on one way and i 'shouldn't' have to 'center' the wheel, or am i missing something here? I don't see splines anywhere in this equation.
Side post and getting way off track from my normal progress stuff, but, i think i know the answer to this but thought i'd ask opinions anyways.
Would it be dumb to spend the money to have my TFS heads installed on my existing 167k shortblock, reuse my stock cam and stock intake? Of all the stuff i've done, i think heads and engine work is out of my scope of mechanical ability so i would have to have a shop do the work.
I just have my heads sitting on a shelf right now... just curious if its not completely dumb to have them installed, or if its better to wait until i rebuild my shortblock (my original plan) down the road sometime.
Would it be dumb to spend the money to have my TFS heads installed on my existing 167k shortblock, reuse my stock cam and stock intake? Of all the stuff i've done, i think heads and engine work is out of my scope of mechanical ability so i would have to have a shop do the work.
I just have my heads sitting on a shelf right now... just curious if its not completely dumb to have them installed, or if its better to wait until i rebuild my shortblock (my original plan) down the road sometime.
It's not dumb and it opens you up for future upgrades. Your intake and TB will be the bottle neck if they are OEM.
A later upgrade of those pieces along with a MAF that can accommodate both, will make a SOTP difference N/A. Boost will only amplify that measure.
Potential Issue:
If you're using an FMU and 19s for your blower, the heads could put out of reach of both with boost.
If you're using an FMU and 19s for your blower, the heads could put out of reach of both with boost.
yes i am still running 19lb injectors with the FMU.
Great point with the FMU. *Assuming* going up to 24lb injectors would work (or handle the power), i still would need to "upgrade" to a calibrated MAF to 24lb'rs, and swap out my FMU disk. I wonder if i'd need to add in a bypass valve to the discharge pipe(?) with that setup. I think i've read going past 24lb injectors with a calibrated MAF isn't wise... and i don't know if i'm ready to go all out with 50+lb injectors, and either a standalone engine management system or buy the quarterhorse and tuning and all that.
I know thats the correct way to go, tune, bigger injectors, ditch the FMU... but that all costs money, and not an insignificant amount of it.
So the long of it may be that its not so much unwise to install the TFS heads, but more so that it opens a can of worms of other things that will need to be done as well.
correct
Not if you stay with low boost
I would wait until you can do a proper tune. I know that my 19s were hitting 90 psi in some cases. That was with E6 heads at the time.
It would be too close for my comfort.
lol somewhere within the 67 pages, but its a Walboro 255lph in tank. I should know it took me like a month to get it installed.
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GSS340 is what my LMR order says the MFG P/N is. I don’t know which one that specifically is though.
You may not like this but...
With the FMU, and assuming you're not using a helper pump with a 255L, I would take a good hard look at this:
Walbro GSS342 Intank Fuel Pump 255LPH High Pressure (Universal)
Walbro Part Number: GSS342Type: Universal Intank Fuel PumpFuel: GasHorsepower: 500HP+Flow Rate: 255LPH Caution: Extremely High Counterfeit Rate - Buy from an Authorized Dealer Only
walbrofuelpumps.com
And maybe consider keeping your current 255L as a spare once you go to a larger injector.
You talking for my current setup or like down the road when I do engine work?You may not like this but...
With the FMU, and assuming you're not using a helper pump with a 255L, I would take a good hard look at this:
Walbro GSS342 Intank Fuel Pump 255LPH High Pressure (Universal)
Walbro Part Number: GSS342Type: Universal Intank Fuel PumpFuel: GasHorsepower: 500HP+Flow Rate: 255LPH Caution: Extremely High Counterfeit Rate - Buy from an Authorized Dealer Only
And maybe consider keeping your current 255L as a spare once you go to a larger injector.
If it’s for the latter I don’t mind replacing it later on. Now that I’ve done it, it wasn’t too bad.
So I currently have a non-high pressure pump? I imagine for my current setup since the kit is ‘supposed’ to work with the stock 88lph pump what I have should be fine for now?
Well, if I was to go through the trouble of replacing it, should I just go bigger to like a high pressure 340lph in tank pump?
Or do I have the high pressure one? This is a screen shot from walbro’s website:
P/N is what I have and it says “high pressure”. Just curious.
And ChatGPT says:
LMR lists it as the high pressure version. Or are you talking I need something else?
P/N is what I have and it says “high pressure”. Just curious.
And ChatGPT says:
LMR lists it as the high pressure version. Or are you talking I need something else?
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