Yeah but, do you [really]?
I mean... If you got solid lifter, steep cam ramps, and stupid high spring pressure you could easily justify the expense.
In your situation... It's a [nice to have].
I think the real question is why does Trick Flow provide 3/8 studs with the heads if they are threaded for 7/16?
Now I gotta spend money on new 7/16 studs.
Ya just since my last post I’ve been researching more and sounds like (as you mention) I don’t need the 7/16 setup for what I’m going for.Yeah but, do you [really]?
I mean... If you got solid lifter, steep cam ramps, and stupid high spring pressure you could easily justify the expense.
In your situation... It's a [nice to have].
Should I close them up to like .035 or something?
I picked up 12 extra plugs from RockAuto recently, some NGKs. They were $2.50/ea. but I’m currently running Motorcraft copper plugs (or platinum? Shoot can’t remember)Yes. And pick up one of these:
And maybe a set of extra plugs (They're expensive these days) so you have a set ready to swap in.
Ok thanks you guys. I picked up the Amazon GearRoll one @Noobz347 linked (placed order before I saw your post @AeroCoupe ).
I know I know it’s AI, but ChatGPT said I should go down to .030 with my setup… is that too close or is this a trial and error type situation? Passenger plugs especially #1 is kind of a pain to swap out.
I say 3psi because that’s the most I’ve seen my boost gauge go up to, however, once I get up into the RPM higher and higher I’m no longer focusing on my boost gauge, but the road. So maybe it’s higher. I should film it next time.I dunno. 3psi seems pretty low for spark blowout. Makes me wonder if something else is the culprit. When I got the entry level 5psi kit the instructions specified to "install new factory heat range plugs as specified by the manufacture". I read that as factory gap though it does leave room for interpretation. I ran it with the plugs gapped at .054 at 5psi with no issue. Eventually upgrading to 10 psi I did close up the gap to .045 because it seemed like a good idea. No issues. Ford coil, cap & rotor, good plug wires.
I guess it’s easy enough to try and at least rule out though. I can't remember, do you have a fuel pressure guage on there? I'd want to make sure the FMU is working correctly also.
Right. Just mentioning I didn't have any spark issues at 5-7 psi with a .054 gap. Not saying it isn't your issue, but I had none at that range.I say 3psi because that’s the most I’ve seen my boost gauge go up to, however, once I get up into the RPM higher and higher I’m no longer focusing on my boost gauge, but the road. So maybe it’s higher. I should film it next time.
Yeah, you could rent one. Just a standard fuel pressure guage (tool). Then if you have a hand pump vacuum / pressure tool https://www.harborfreight you can at least verify your FMU is working correctly. They come in handy for lots of things like bleeding brakes.So one things that Is odd to my novice brain: It cutout at the same rpm (I should go back and find my original post about this when it happened the first time and verify) with plugs gapped at .054 and .043-ish. Shouldn’t have closing up the gap allowed me rev the engine up at least a little higher?
I will get a fuel gauge (at some point) and try taking it to my cowl like I’ve seen some people do.
You'll get it. One thing at a time.This is so frustrating I’m having all these issues and can’t f*ckin work on the car. Aargh!
I will look into fuel when time allows. (Need to buy mechanical gauge). Something seems fishy that the car falls flat at the same RPM with tighter plug gap, so I’m skeptical it’s spark plug related. And as you said this kit is for a stock 5.0 which mine is (except exhaust) so it should be fine with stock gapped plugs.Right. Just mentioning I didn't have any spark issues at 5-7 psi with a .054 gap. Not saying it isn't your issue, but I had none at that range.
Yeah, you could rent one. Just a standard fuel pressure guage (tool). Then if you have a hand pump vacuum / pressure tool https://www.harborfreight you can at least verify your FMU is working correctly. They come in handy for lots of things like bleeding brakes.
-install FP guage to fuel rail Schrader valve
-remove vacuum line from FMU and plug hose
-set hand pump to pressure and connect to FMU nipple
-start car and make sure no fuel leaks
-hold RPMs up a little so it wont bog down when you bump up the FP with the FMU
-observe FP guage with car running
-pump 5 psi into FMU with hand pump (this simulates boost pressure)
-note FP increase as you apply pressure. It should go up from base FP to 60 or more. At 10 psi it will be around 100 psi with the disc your running for 19lb injectors.
-release pressue from pump as soon as you see it operating correctly or you'll flood the engine.
Just something pretty easy to test. If it passes that test I'd take it for a ride and see what the guage does when you experience the issue. If it looks good move onto spark.
Its just all about eliminating things one by one. Eventually you'll find it. I'm just mentioning to check the FMU becasue if it isn't working it could mean bad things happening by running lean. Probably worth a look see. Your issue is either spark or fuel, so rule out the most detrimental possibility first IMO.
You'll get it. One thing at a time.
I don't mean to just jump in here but ^^^that^^^ could be an important tool to diagnose this issue.Been free ballin the AFR this whole time.
I know I know. I normally don’t go past 3,500 rpm’s when driving just due to my ‘other’ many issues but I get it, need to get this done asap. I kind of haven’t made it a priority because I have a stock car (basically) with a supercharger made for a stock car putting out dismal boost figures.I don't mean to just jump in here but ^^^that^^^ could be an important tool to diagnose this issue.
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