SN95 Kyb Gr-2 Shocks/struts With Frpp B Springs

mattmathis · Mar 7, 2014

Ok, I know everyone is going to say bilstiens, konis or something. But as much as I'd like to I cannot spend that kind of money now, or anytime soon. It's everything I can do to save up what I do get to spend on my car. If the rides not smooth as glass I"m ok with that. I just want to get rid of the 4x4 look really bad, and I like the way the B springs look in pics I've seen.

I have read some good things about these shocks and struts. I know they are not intended for much of a drop, but will the be ok for the Ford B springs? I mean they have to be better than the 20 year old factory ones right? And will I need camber plates with this setup?

Thanks!

tamadrummer88 · Mar 7, 2014

I used FRPP C springs on my 98 GT and i had KYB's on it. The drop was not a huge drop but it rode okay. I got mine aligned after a couple weeks for the springs to settle and i didn't need camber plates. But, every car is different.

Gearbanger 101 · Mar 8, 2014

I've got Tokico Blue's (great shock at a great price) with cut stock springs (about 1/2") and it looks and rides just dandy. No need to spend big bucks if looks are all you're after.

mikestang63 · Mar 8, 2014

X2 on the Tokico Blues. I have used them on several cars. Not a big fan of the B springs. They are progressive springs about the same spring rate as stockers but sit the car lower resulting in bottoming out, and often give a rake to the car . You usually get about a 1.5" drop in the front and hardly anything in the rear. Most guys have to cut a coil to get the car level.

Not that you asked, but I prefer either Steeda or H&R springs. If you are on a budget, look for a set of used ones or Mach1 or Bullit springs. I would also invest in either a bumptseer kit or CC plates with any lowering springs.

Contrary to popular belief, lower springs= 2"- is not better. It throws off your front end geometry.

mattmathis · Mar 8, 2014

Really? From what I read and hear the B springs will drop it "1994-2004 Front 1-1/8"; Rear 3/4". And people tell me if I'm not droping it more than 1 inch I wont need or "might not" need the camber plates.

I was looking at some H&R race springs but was worried they would drop it too low. They say Drop: Front - 1.25", Rear - 1.0”.

I don't want it really low that's why I was going with the B springs. I just want to reduce the 4x4 look as much as I can without having to worry about clearance issues everywhere.

tamadrummer88 · Mar 8, 2014

mattmathis said:
Really? From what I read and hear the B springs will drop it "1994-2004 Front 1-1/8"; Rear 3/4". And people tell me if I'm not droping it more than 1 inch I wont need or "might not" need the camber plates.

I was looking at some H&R race springs but was worried they would drop it too low. They say Drop: Front - 1.25", Rear - 1.0”
I don't want it really low that's why I was going with the B springs. I just want to reduce the 4x4 look as much as I can without having to worry about clearance issues everywhere.

It'll drop the SN95's lower than foxes because they weigh more. And someone correct me if I'm wrong, but the fox has more front end weight than the SN95, thus lowering it more.

mattmathis · Mar 8, 2014

Ok, If I go with H&R race or steeda and it drops so much I need CC plates. How much labor trouble is it to putting the CC plates in later? Do you have to pretty much redo the whole thing? Or can they be added without all that hassle?

btw please forgive the noobish questions. lol

mikestang63 · Mar 8, 2014

mattmathis said:
Ok, If I go with H&R race or steeda and it drops so much I need CC plates. How much labor trouble is it to putting the CC plates in later? Do you have to pretty much redo the whole thing? Or can they be added without all that hassle?

btw please forgive the noobish questions. lol

The steeda's do not drop them as much. Normally, if you are 1" or less you can get away without CC plates. However, CC plates allow you much more caster adjustment over the stock adjustment. If you are swapping out springs and struts, you have it all apart anyway. The CC manufacturer will give you install instructions. Personally, I would buy the MM ones as they are the strongest and best quality. Don't buy cheap aluminim ones.

mattmathis · Mar 8, 2014

Thanks for all the help. I'm not going to be doing it myself. One of my dads friends is a mechanic and he will be doing it. so labor is not really going to kill me. But if I can save 200 bucks I really need to. should i try the steeda springs without the CC plates 1st? What are the chances I'll need them? Thanks again for your help!

Gearbanger 101 · Mar 8, 2014

Stock springs, cut about 1/2" up front, with old stockers in the rear. Not exactly slammed, but not 4x4 either. Like I said, if looks is all you're after, just cut the stockers. Ride height isn't going to suffer with that little amount and you'll have money left over for a better set of shocks/struts.

mikestang63 · Mar 9, 2014

Gearbanger 101 said:
Stock springs, cut about 1/2" up front, with old stockers in the rear. Not exactly slammed, but not 4x4 either. Like I said, if looks is all you're after, just cut the stockers. Ride height isn't going to suffer with that little amount and you'll have money left over for a better set of shocks/struts.

That ride is looking good Brian, even for a Canuck. My first mustang was black and I hated it. Showed every damn piece of dirt and swirl mark, plus with no A/C it was a bear in the Summer.

mattmathis · Mar 9, 2014

Nice looking ride bro! I have a chance to buy used tokcio blues for $300. The guy says the have around 5000 miles on them. I've always hated buying used things. Will they really be better than the new KYBs?

7991LXnSHO · Mar 9, 2014

mikestang63 said:
X2 on the Tokico Blues. I have used them on several cars. Not a big fan of the B springs. They are progressive springs about the same spring rate as stockers but sit the car lower resulting in bottoming out, and often give a rake to the car . You usually get about a 1.5" drop in the front and hardly anything in the rear. Most guys have to cut a coil to get the car level.

Not that you asked, but I prefer either Steeda or H&R springs. If you are on a budget, look for a set of used ones or Mach1 or Bullit springs. I would also invest in either a bumptseer kit or CC plates with any lowering springs.

Contrary to popular belief, lower springs= 2"- is not better. It throws off your front end geometry.

I like the little bit of rake, and with 4 in the car we have not bottomed out. A little rougher than stock ride, but that could be the gosh knows what shocks and struts that came with the car.

mikestang63 · Mar 9, 2014

mattmathis said:
Nice looking ride bro! I have a chance to buy used tokcio blues for $300. The guy says the have around 5000 miles on them. I've always hated buying used things. Will they really be better than the new KYBs?

That's a little high IMO. I bought all 4 of mine for $225. The fronts were brand new in the box and the guy wrecked the car. The rears were used but nothing wrong with them. All 4 shocks or just the fronts? I would ask for a receipt, check for rebound, bent shafts, sprint perches, dents, and leaks. Check the part numbers as well as fox body and sn95's are different. If you like them I would offer $250. You can buy the struts new for about $125 each and the rears for about 75-100 each.

Yes, they are much beter than KYB's.

Gearbanger 101 · Mar 9, 2014

mattmathis said:
Nice looking ride bro! I have a chance to buy used tokcio blues for $300. The guy says the have around 5000 miles on them. I've always hated buying used things. Will they really be better than the new KYBs?

I agree with Mike. I haven't seen Tokico "Blue" HP shocks sold in a while, but I paid about that much for mine, brand new 2-summers ago.

Yes, they are are better than the KYB Gas-A-Just shocks for certain....but then the KYB's can be had for less than $190 brand new. The KYB AGX adjustable series on the other hand are an excellent shock/strut package, but they're a little more spendy at about $490 a set.....but I'd spend that before I gave someone $300 for a set of used Tokico HP's.

90lxwhite · Mar 9, 2014

Ford racing progressive b, kyb gas adjust, latemod house brand standard length sfc's(weld in). Handles pretty well good street car. It can take any twisty road and doesn't beat the h*ll outta me like the sportlines on the fox did. Oh and c'mon don't buy used shocks, they're a wear item.

mikestang63 · Mar 9, 2014

90lxwhite said:
Ford racing progressive b, kyb gas adjust, latemod house brand standard length sfc's(weld in). Handles pretty well good street car. It can take any twisty road and doesn't beat the h*ll outta me like the sportlines on the fox did. Oh and c'mon don't buy used shocks, they're a wear item.

You have B springs on that? How high was the car before?

90lxwhite · Mar 9, 2014

mikestang63 said:
You have B springs on that? How high was the car before?

Yep, those are b's. How high? I dunno bout an inch.

90lxwhite · Mar 9, 2014

Uses shocks... How bout used wiper blades

90lxwhite · Mar 9, 2014

mattmathis said:
Ok, I know everyone is going to say bilstiens, konis or something. But as much as I'd like to I cannot spend that kind of money now, or anytime soon. It's everything I can do to save up what I do get to spend on my car. If the rides not smooth as glass I"m ok with that. I just want to get rid of the 4x4 look really bad, and I like the way the B springs look in pics I've seen.

I have read some good things about these shocks and struts. I know they are not intended for much of a drop, but will the be ok for the Ford B springs? I mean they have to be better than the 20 year old factory ones right? And will I need camber plates with this setup?

Thanks!

You're preaching to the choir bro. That's why I have what I have and ya know what, it ain't bad, better than when she was new.

SN95 Kyb Gr-2 Shocks/struts With Frpp B Springs

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