Late model suspension

If possible, what does it take to convert to a late model (87-04) front suspension? I cant remember if the tie rod points are in the same place as my classic is 1400 miles away from me. Just curious if it is at all possible.:shrug: Thanks.
 
Thats nothing close to what I'm talking about at all. I am not going to be putting a COMPLETE late model chassis under the skin like they did. Im talking about putting struts and C/C plates under the stock shock towers and mating up to my current rack&pinion. Is that possible?
 
Yeah, I knew that sorry. Just being Smart@ss in the morning.

I have seen some stuff like that somewhere but haven't bookmarked any, sorry.

One of the knowlegeable people on here will get you the info you need.
 
Why bother though...
Kingsford beat all the late-model Mustangs at the last auto-x event, lol

Seriously though, there is so much you can do with the stock suspension without spending a lot of money. A few key parts here and there make huge improvements in handling potential.
 
Z06killinSBF said:
Thats nothing close to what I'm talking about at all. I am not going to be putting a COMPLETE late model chassis under the skin like they did.

Well you were so clear in your first post...

Im talking about putting struts and C/C plates under the stock shock towers and mating up to my current rack&pinion. Is that possible?

That is a little better. Like they said Fat Man Fabrications and RRS make kits to do put a McPhearson strut front suspension under your car. Why you would want to do that I do not know. As far as mating up with your current rack and pinnion, I have no idea. What kind is it? If it uses the stock classic spindles (rear steer) then I suspect it will not work because most of the McPhearson strut kits use late model spindles (front steer).
 
When cornering, you want your outside wheel to gain negative camber, which means the top of the wheel should move more towords the center of the car. This is to help keep the bottom of the wheel flat against the ground during body roll. a strut suspension will actually gain positive camber (bad!) while cornering. you can get adjustable caster/camber plates for struts (not sure about the conversions though), however adding negative camber to a strut will also add negative camber when the car is sitting flat, which means uneven tire wear. The main reason you'll find strut suspensions on the newer mustangs is that they are dirt cheap to build, and easier to align.


I'm sure someone like Open Tracker, 2bav8, or Historic can probably explain it better than i can.
 
lauras70mach1 said:
Why not? Can you explain?


it will depend on what you want to do with the car when done. if a street cruiser, then rebuilding the stock front suspension is the way to go due to cost reasons. the fatman fab, and rrs kits are going to run you around $3000 when all is said and done.

if you are building a one off show car, then it doesnt matter which suspension you go with, and thus money is no object, and you can "dare to be different".

if you are building a corner carver, autocross, or racecar, then a modified version of the stock suspension, or an aftermarket suspension like the griggs racing gr-350 suspension is going to be much better as you have far more control over the camber, and bumpsteer curves, and you also have more adjustability which is important in racing.
 
J Bittles 68 Trans Am coupe pulled 1.01 G's with a modified stock suspension on period correct 15" bias ply race rubber...so why go to all of the trouble and expense to completely replace the suspension with anything like the RRS or the Martz? I understand the need if you have to ditch the shock towers to put in a late model motor but otherwise it seems like a lot of work and expense for nothing in return.
 
Thanks guys. Sorry if I was alittle vague here and there but I was just mainly looking for a "yea sure it'll work" or a "What are you stupid? Hell No!!" kinda answer like you gave me:D .

So, what I have running through my head now is a coil-over set up that basically copies the GW or TCP kits. How hard would it be to build this set up? Is that clear enough?:shrug:

Or if someone has a better idea feel free to input. Thanks:nice:
 
there was a guy on here named Dolfan87 (i think?) about a year or two ago that was planning on coming out with a tubular control arm + coilover kit, but i don't think it ever fully materialized. If you have the welding skills and you know what you're doing, then it wouldn't be too hard to build your own. but if you're like most of us, then your best bet is a kit, which can get expensive. If you're not dead set on coilovers you can check out some of the OpenTracker mods , which is what i plan on doing once i get my steering and tranny done. If you don't want to modify the parts yourself you can buy the roller perches and upper arms completed from him. add some adjustable strut rods and you'll have a very nice front suspension for around $1200 Ish (probably less but i'm not in a math mood). I've heard that both the coil overs and the open tracker stuff makes a lot of difference over a stock front end, but as far as i know, nobody has driven both, so it's hard to tell which one is better for handeling.