I will do so, planing on putting in upper and lowers and changing out the rear axle bushings as well. Once I get started I’ll post them up! Thanks.Pull bolts out. Put bolts back in.
Jack stands and a good floor jack. Take your time and disassemble just one side at a time.
A good (set of) pry bar(s) can be handy to have around but you will hopefully not need them at all.
Have you already inspected your torque boxes? Can you post up quality pics of them?
I will do so, planing on putting in upper and lowers and changing out the rear axle bushings as well. Once I get started I’ll post them up! Thanks.
Got it, so for the time being just to put some UPRs I picked up that looked basically new from a guy that took them off his 93 cobra to convert back to all original for 100 bucks. Anyways had the discussion but figured these have to be better than stock, and the summit ones I also had, and eventually I want to swap to one of the MM suspension packages, but for right now My main focus is on motor. So the guy I bought them from said I should use some silicone grease on the outer before installing. Is that correct?Grab some dielectric grease or a can of silicon lubricant. It will help with the bushings. Make sure though, that you lube the bushings with what the manufacturer supplies.
Get new bolts and nuts too. You may discover that you have to cut one or more of the old ones out with a sawsall.
Ha don’t have an impact gun! But I do have the torque wrench etc, and I saw that on the final tightening, to make them snug then lower car fully and torque to spec.Torque wrench for torquing all the bolts later with weight on the suspenion.
Impact gun would make removal waaaaaay easier. I did mine with wrenches. Ugh
Edit, I see info for final tightening of bolts with weight of vehicle on the wheels for poly as well.Ha don’t have an impact gun! But I do have the torque wrench etc, and I saw that on the final tightening, to make them snug then lower car fully and torque to spec.
I don’t have subframes but also looking into that saw some on Craig’s but wasn’t sure if the 50 bucks was worth that or if I should wait and get better quality plus he said they were SMR and never heard of that company.Depending on what mufflers you have they can sometimes be in the way of accessing the front bolt in the torque box. You will need sockets for the front LCA bolt FYI. This is a simple job, most bolts back there are 16mm and 18mm. Take your time, do one side at a time, enjoy a cold one
Hint: Jack up rear end, place car on jack stands supported under rear frame rail (hopefully you have subframe connectors). Use floor jack to support rear axle as necessary throughout R&I of LCA's if needed.
Bolt in SFC's are a no no
I don’t have subframes but also looking into that saw some on Craig’s but wasn’t sure if the 50 bucks was worth that or if I should wait and get better quality plus he said they were SMR and never heard of that company.
GotchaBolt in SFC's are a no no
You want weld-in SFC's
Gotchathen I’ll let those slide and look for some weld ins
So you think that those would be ok bc if they would do the job then I’m game and I’d just get them welded in as you say. As far as getting new nuts and bolts where is the best place or option to get replacements?Some subframes are sold as bolt in which is useless. So buy those $50 ones and weld them in. They weld in and the cross brace supports the seat bolts which normally tear or rip your floor pan out. With these your car will be solid, zero flex and you won't wreck your floor pan banging gears. Any subframe is better then none.
As far as upgrading your control arms.. yes it's simply eight bolts and nuts but it's suspension and if it's original then it's gonna be a real pita. The bolts seize up to the metal they slide thru in the rubber bushings. This makes it almost impossible to get them out in one piece. Thus requiring new bolts/nuts being ordered and you wasting your time cutting/air hammering etc these bolts out.
Some subframes are sold as bolt in which is useless.
Those bolt in subframes could be welded in but they are missing the metal tabs that weld to the cars pan.So you think that those would be ok bc if they would do the job then I’m game and I’d just get them welded in as you say. As far as getting new nuts and bolts where is the best place or option to get replacements?
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