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Lca Install Difficulty Level??

  • Thread starter Thread starter Reddevil91
  • Start date Start date Jan 30, 2018
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Davedacarpainter

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#41
  • Feb 4, 2018
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When you say axle bushings, are you referring the ones we're talking about here?

That one kit had me thinking you might be replacing your outer axle bearings as well. Hence the pull the axles comment.
 

Reddevil91

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#42
  • Feb 4, 2018
  • #42
Davedacarpainter said:
When you say axle bushings, are you referring the ones we're talking about here?

That one kit had me thinking you might be replacing your outer axle bearings as well. Hence the pull the axles comment.
Click to expand...
Nope just the axle bushings where the upper control arms connects. I have the prothane kit which is just the bushings that need to be inserted after you get the old ones out of the sleeve. I posted the ford performance one to see if you all thought these were better since there was a post about using stock rear axle bushings.
 

mikestang63

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#43
  • Feb 4, 2018
  • #43
Reddevil91 said:

I’m using the UPRs for now and later would like to upgrade to a full MM suspension, but that would be later down the line, but picked these up for the time being, in great shape not bad for 125. As for the rear axle I am putting the prothane bushings But seems like those are gonna be a pain to get out. I’ve read to use the MM tool, air chisel, and even just drill thilm out with a drill bit.
Click to expand...
w
if it were me, I would install a set of MM rear lower control arms and a set of stock 94-95 rear uppers, but hard to beat the $125 for what you bought.. make sure you use the proper grease and dont torque the bolts down until you have the suspension loaded at ride hieight
 
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Reddevil91

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#44
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mikestang63 said:
w
if it were me, I would install a set of MM rear lower control arms and a set of stock 94-95 rear uppers, but hard to beat the $125 for what you bought.. make sure you use the proper grease and dont torque the bolts down until you have the suspension loaded at ride hieight
Click to expand...
Ha I do want MM but at a later point. I found these for cheap and really clean. Right now focus is on motor, then paint, then suspension. For now I figure these have to be better than stock. Now does every bolt need to be torqued to specs after full load bc idk how I’m going to get in there for all of that. The vids I watched seems like everyone tightened and then torqued to spec the easiest bolts to get to on the lowers.
 

Davedacarpainter

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#45
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Reddevil91 said:
Ha I do want MM but at a later point. I found these for cheap and really clean. Right now focus is on motor, then paint, then suspension. For now I figure these have to be better than stock. Now does every bolt need to be torqued to specs after full load bc idk how I’m going to get in there for all of that. The vids I watched seems like everyone tightened and then torqued to spec the easiest bolts to get to on the lowers.
Click to expand...
If you can borrow a set of drive up ramps, that makes the tightening a bunch easier.

Not that you want to keep blowing money right now, but, a new set of control arm bolts is a wonderful thing.
 

Boostedpimp

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#46
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I've ran those same moly upr control arms on my daily fox for a few years now. Car sees allot of abuse and haven't had any binding issues with the poly mounts. Replacing the upper to axle bushings was a pita though, I didn't use the drill method I ended up burning them out.
 
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Reddevil91

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#47
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Davedacarpainter said:
If you can borrow a set of drive up ramps, that makes the tightening a bunch easier.

Not that you want to keep blowing money right now, but, a new set of control arm bolts is a wonderful thing.
Click to expand...
I did think about that but honestly my bolts all look fairly clean and in good shape. I’ll upload a photo of them later. Really didn’t have an issue getting them loose either just a little wd-40
 
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Reddevil91

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#48
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Boostedpimp said:
I've ran those same moly upr control arms on my daily fox for a few years now. Car sees allot of abuse and haven't had any binding issues with the poly mounts. Replacing the upper to axle bushings was a pita though, I didn't use the drill method I ended up burning them out.[/QUOTE
Ha I am trying the drill method but I’ve snapped like 3 drill bits thus far
Click to expand...
 
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stanglx2002

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#49
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I highly recommend not installing poly bushings in the rearend ears. If you are wanting to replace those bushing just spend a little more money and put in spherical bushings.

Adding poly bushings just add to the binding of the suspension when you are wanting the opposite.
 
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FoxMustangLvr

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#50
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When it comes to final torque of suspension hardware, place vehicle on 4 jackstands. Two up front and the other two under the rear axle. That's as close as you're going to get to full vehicle weight resting on the suspension. It'll will work just fine. Try to get the rear jackstands as far outside to the tires you can.
 

90sickfox

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#51
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Side note...do not back up on cheap ramps. If they dont have a tall stopper at the end its very easy to shoit them under the car.....or out behind it when pulling off.

Dont ask how i know. It was a very very long time ago....with thise stamped metal ramps....thats all i can say
 
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Reddevil91

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#52
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FoxMustangLvr said:
When it comes to final torque of suspension hardware, place vehicle on 4 jackstands. Two up front and the other two under the rear axle. That's as close as you're going to get to full vehicle weight resting on the suspension. It'll will work just fine. Try to get the rear jackstands as far outside to the tires you can.
Click to expand...
Got it, looks like I’ll need to pick up another set of stands.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#53
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they come with some turbo kits
 
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Noobz347

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#54
  • Feb 5, 2018
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The nicer the stands, the better the turbo kit.
 
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Reddevil91

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#55
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Well finally got one side out, people weren’t lying when they said it was a pita to get these bushings out!!
 
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Reddevil91

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#56
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So last night I noticed this on the crossmember, not sure if the bolt just got loose or how long it’s been that way. Also how many of you all swapped your sway bars out and are they an investment that’s worth while. Was wondering if i should swap my rear one out while I have it out or am I ok on saving money and passing on this?
 

Reddevil91

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#57
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Anyone else remove their quad shocks? Do they make a difference? Just wondering bc I’ve been thinking I might just take them off if their is no difference noticed.
 

Noobz347

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#58
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Leave them on if you don't have any rubbing issues.
 

Davedacarpainter

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#59
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Reddevil91 said:
Anyone else remove their quad shocks? Do they make a difference? Just wondering bc I’ve been thinking I might just take them off if their is no difference noticed.
Click to expand...
Wheel hop. They ease the loading and unloading of the rear end. Foxes had slapper bars before the quad shocks.

Ford really thought this one over. Definitely use them unless you replace them with a way to deal with wheel hop.

Like Noobz mentioned, do you have a clearance issue with your wheel/tire combo?
 

Reddevil91

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#60
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Davedacarpainter said:
Wheel hop. They ease the loading and unloading of the rear end. Foxes had slapper bars before the quad shocks.

Ford really thought this one over. Definitely use them unless you replace them with a way to deal with wheel hop.

Like Noobz mentioned, do you have a clearance issue with your wheel/tire combo?
Click to expand...
No I would say even with my old school Jamex springs and the all around drop they seem to be ok. I would like to later swap out of these cobra r’s and maybe go 18s though so maybe at that point. Thanks for the input just wanted to check before I start to finalize everything.
 
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