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Fox Leaking Brake Booster On Ratrod Fox - Replace Or Delete?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Chance EG
  • Start date Start date Jan 18, 2017
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Chance EG

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Jan 18, 2017
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Jan 18, 2017
#1
  • Jan 18, 2017
  • #1
Hey Stangnet, hope you guys are doing good.

I hopefully won't be bothering you guys with too many questions here, but I recently picked up a 1988 5.0 LX Rustbucket that I'll soon be converting into a drift missile. For right now though my main car is in a paint booth, so I need to drive this to/from work for a couple months.

I've already been driving the car for awhile with the leaking booster, and if I were intending to drive this long term every day I wouldn't even question replacing it. Since this will soon be a missile though, I'm really just looking for the cheapest/easiest solution to get rid of the vacuum leak so I can help the engine run a bit smoother.

If anyone knows of a cheap source for either a replacement booster or booster delete, I'd appreciate some insight. Otherwise I'm going to start looking up guides on replacement procedures.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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Jan 18, 2017
#2
  • Jan 18, 2017
  • #2
Cheapest easiest solution is to replace the brake booster. Remans on rockauto are $70-100 plus core.

To delete the booster and swap to manual brakes will require a new master cylinder, and a delete kit such as this

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Manual-Brake-Conversion-Kit-1979-93-P677.aspx



You can also try and pick up a used booster from someone who's swapped theirs out for a larger booster. I know mine is sitting collecting dust, but shipping is probably more than what it's worth. You might be able to find someone locally who has one. However, given the fun job that is swapping out out, I would swap in a new/reman one
 
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Chance EG

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Jan 18, 2017
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Jan 18, 2017
#3
  • Jan 18, 2017
  • #3
Mustang5L5 said:
Cheapest easiest solution is to replace the brake booster. Remans on rockauto are $70-100 plus core.

To delete the booster and swap to manual brakes will require a new master cylinder, and a delete kit such as this

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Manual-Brake-Conversion-Kit-1979-93-P677.aspx



You can also try and pick up a used booster from someone who's swapped theirs out for a larger booster. I know mine is sitting collecting dust, but shipping is probably more than what it's worth. You might be able to find someone locally who has one. However, given the fun job that is swapping out out, I would swap in a new/reman one
Click to expand...
Thank you for the insight, definitely appreciated.

I'll put a remanufactured booster on order. Like you said I don't want to go through the trouble of putting in a used/junkyard one to only find out it also has a diaphragm or line leak somewhere.

/thread, thanks guys! Sorry this was so brief, I thought there may be some cheaper delete kits out there.
 

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
SN Certified Technician
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#4
  • Jan 18, 2017
  • #4
So...let me get this straight....you want a drift missile without brake assist ? Always thought you'd want as much brake as possible on a drift car.
 
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Chance EG

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#5
  • Jan 18, 2017
  • #5
90sickfox said:
So...let me get this straight....you want a drift missile without brake assist ? Always thought you'd want as much brake as possible on a drift car.
Click to expand...

I don't think the brake booster does anything to assist the e-brake? E-brake is just a cable connected to the rear drums (which I'll probably try to do a budget disc conversion on at some point).
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#6
  • Jan 18, 2017
  • #6
E brake on a drift car? Gonna have to esplain tat one. I know very little about drift'n 'cept kik'n out your rear and roast'n the tires all the while negotiating a small road course in tandem with another car do'n the same thing. I would think you would need brake bias in the front. I'm probably wrong so esplain it
 

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
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#7
  • Jan 18, 2017
  • #7
You need front brakes, too. Most drift guys I know run hydraulic e brake handles with calipers in the rear.

Some even have two brake handles...one for actual parking brake...and one for drifting using caliper.

I'm not a drifter...

A powerful car needs powerful brakes...it isn't like drag racing.

All my friends that drift have huge brake kits...so figured it was important.
 
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Chance EG

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Jan 18, 2017
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Jan 18, 2017
#8
  • Jan 18, 2017
  • #8
karthief said:
E brake on a drift car? Gonna have to esplain tat one. I know very little about drift'n 'cept kik'n out your rear and roast'n the tires all the while negotiating a small road course in tandem with another car do'n the same thing. I would think you would need brake bias in the front. I'm probably wrong so esplain it
Click to expand...
My knowledge on drifting is fairly minimal as well. I'm not taking this build too seriously, it's low budget and just intended for fun. Basic plans are just to stiffen the chassis up all around (especially the rear) and do some weight reduction, then abuse the hell out of 2nd and 3rd gear.

The big iron block up front will already give me some bias up at the front as far as weight goes (it would actually probably be better to have the bias in the rear for kicking the end out), but I think it'll work regardless.

I probably wouldn't use the E-Brake half the time anyway unless I start to get more serious on courses. Torque alone on this should be plenty for initiating a drift, the e-brake would just be used to change the direction of the slide or link turns together.

I'll still be doing some modest brake upgrades, and sounds like I'll still be running a booster too. Should work out pretty decently
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
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#9
  • Jan 18, 2017
  • #9
Can't figure why the emphasis on rear brakes, I would think you would want to slow the front down to make it easy to keep the rear kicked out, I wouldn't build one but it is interesting to watch for little while. Guess I'll have to do some research on this.
New members are always welcome no matter what insanity they subscribe to, they let me in here, go figure.
 
Reactions: krazedstang
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Chance EG

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Jan 18, 2017
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Jan 18, 2017
#10
  • Jan 18, 2017
  • #10
karthief said:
New members are always welcome no matter what insanity they subscribe to, they let me in here, go figure.
Click to expand...

hehehe.

I've read a few websites/build threads on Fox drifting platforms. From what I've gathered they're excellent for beginner to intermediate drifting. Steering angle will also need to be increased, pretty sure I can accomplish that with some different control arms and modified knuckles. Maybe tie rods?

I'll be sure to post results once I have the car going sideways.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
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polk county florida
Jan 18, 2017
#11
  • Jan 18, 2017
  • #11
Tie rod extenders.
Drift'n looks like fun for a couple minutes but I think I'm gonna go road racing.
 
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Chance EG

Member
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#12
  • Jan 18, 2017
  • #12
karthief said:
Tie rod extenders.
Drift'n looks like fun for a couple minutes but I think I'm gonna go road racing.
Click to expand...

I've got another car cooking for some legitimate track days .

Drag/roll racing doesn't honestly interest me too much, minus whatever I may run into on the street. Later in my life I may do a full drag build, but I have other toys to play with first.
 
Reactions: General karthief

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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Jan 18, 2017
#13
  • Jan 18, 2017
  • #13
karthief said:
Can't figure why the emphasis on rear brakes, I would think you would want to slow the front down to make it easy to keep the rear kicked out, I wouldn't build one but it is interesting to watch for little while. Guess I'll have to do some research on this.
New members are always welcome no matter what insanity they subscribe to, they let me in here, go figure.
Click to expand...


The emphasis on rear brakes is to lock up the rears.

Even with my Cobra brakes out back, if I yank my e-brake yard i'll just slow the car down, not actually lock them. Back when I had drums, I actually could lock the rear brakes at 50MPH if I pulled it.


But yes, a lot of the fox builds I am aware of have ditched the cable setup and use hydraulic e-brake to activate the rear brakes for inducing a slide.

Of course, enough HP and short enough gearing and you can do the same thing really just by using the right foot.

I believe the OP just wanted a cheap booster replacement option, and got his answer anyway, so this convo is a little off-topic
 
Last edited: Jan 18, 2017
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Chance EG

Member
Jan 18, 2017
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Jan 18, 2017
#14
  • Jan 18, 2017
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Mustang5L5 said:
Of course, enough HP and short enough gearing and you can do the same thing really just by using the right foot.
Click to expand...

Yep. Plans are just bolt ons, straight pipes, and a 4.10 rear gear. That's all I'm doing in the power department.

I'll have to look into hydraulic ebrake setups more, but I'm planning on running one of those too. From what I've seen 350z guys doing it shouldn't be too hard to run the lines.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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#15
  • Jan 18, 2017
  • #15
Chance EG said:
From what I've seen 350z guys doing it shouldn't be too hard to run the lines.
Click to expand...

Problem is the fox mustang only has one brake line to the rear, so if you want an individual brake line to each rear brake, you'll need to split it before the axle and then tie in the hydraulic handles if you want two
 
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