Lets talk about the weight of our components

[Edbert]

I got to thinking the other day (always dangerous I know) about my projected curb weight. I have done dozens of things to lower the weight of my car, but I have also done many that will add weight too. Just to summarize a few:

351W block in place of 289, how much does that add?
Aluminum heads in place of 289 heads, how much does that lose?
Aluminum intake for 351W in place of cast iron 4V from 289...
Long tube headers weigh less than cast iron manifolds...
AOD in place of C4...
Aluminum radiator in place of brass...
Manual rack and pinion (TCP=heavy) in place of factory PS...
9" in place of 8"...
9 quart oil pan...
Added rollbar, traction bars, and subs...
Aluminum driveshaft in place of steel...
17X8 aluminum wheels in place of 14X6 Styled Steel Wheels (big weight savings there!)...

Many many more examples too.

So anyone want to guess as to the final result, either on the whole or any of these parts? I'm guessing it is close to the original when all is said and done, at least within a hundred pounds or so. At least it will be better balanced (a little) since much of my savings are in the front and much of my gains are in the middle or back.

 

[zookeeper]

I agree, I think your car will weigh about the same it did stock.

 

[66P51GT]

+75 351W block in place of 289, how much does that add?
-50 Aluminum heads in place of 289 heads, how much does that lose?
-10 Aluminum intake for 351W in place of cast iron 4V from 289...
+- Long tube headers weigh less than cast iron manifolds...
+25 AOD in place of C4...
-5 Aluminum radiator in place of brass...
-25 Manual rack and pinion (TCP=heavy) in place of factory PS...
+50 9" in place of 8"...
+10 9 quart oil pan...
+65 Added rollbar, traction bars, and subs...
-10 Aluminum driveshaft in place of steel...
+- 17X8 aluminum wheels in place of 14X6 Styled Steel Wheels (big weight savings there!)...

+- values == about the same
Long Tubes weigh about the same as cast iron coutnerparts
17x8 rims will be lighter but you will pick up weight in tires so they will cancel out.

The +65 for chassis is money well spent!

I'll SWAG it 'bout ~+125lbs. don't take my #'s as gospel.

 

[Edbert]

+- values == about the same
Long Tubes weigh about the same as cast iron coutnerparts
17x8 rims will be lighter but you will pick up weight in tires so they will cancel out.

The +65 for chassis is money well spent!

I'll SWAG it 'bout ~+125lbs. don't take my #'s as gospel.

Good enuff and what I was asking for, THANKS! I'm leaning to the gain side too, I forgot to add electric windows too. The power top, and power discs were original. Dunno if a Painless wiring kit weighs less or not, I also left off a fiberglass hood and valence.

Oh well, wasn't it GP001 who said "screw weight saving, add more power"?



edit:UBB code fixes

 

[66P51GT]

Oh well, wasn't it GP001 who said "screw weight saving, add more power"?

IMHO, you have to balance the two. For an all out race car, you want to shed as much weight as possible. This not only helps your ET, but also your handling. You can both accellerate and stop faster if the car doesn't weigh as much.

If it don't make it go fast, don't put it on the car. Problem with this approach is it is kinda nice to have windows that roll up and down, back seats, stereo, etc. For a nice streetable ride, this approach doesn't work very well.

I typically look at what I have to replace and upgrade when my pocketbook can afford it. Case it point, I needed to replace my cast iron water pump so I upgraded to an aluminum unit. Intake manifold is a no brainer. Heads, however, are a different story for me. I originally wanted to install a set of AFRs but they are big bucks. I settled for a slightly used set of Windsor Jr. Cast Iron heads I picked up for $600. I would have liked having the weight savings for the aluminum heads, but my pocket book couldn't afford it. The extra $800 will come in handy for a little nicer paint job than I originally budgeted.

$0.02.

 

[kidtaurus]

Preach on 66P51GT. I feel the same way.